gee_fin

Place a jigaw upside down in a vice, masking tape carbon-fibre, draw the line to cut, mask on, goggles on, jigsaw on, feed in the carbon. Finish edge with wet-dry as required. :) Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

P.S. Call it £50 and some sausages to take home and it's yours :) ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

Yep, hole is just about 3/4" longer/higher than needs be. Other than that brand new, unmarked, uncut. Got plenty of little offcuts that size if you want a covering :) Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

Suitable for pre-SV, rolled bottom edge. Steering column hole has been wrongly drilled for custom column (moved up 3/4"). pic1 pic2 pic3 £60.00 graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk/07747 60 60 66 ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk Edited by - gee_fin on 13 Apr 2005 22:19:51 Edited by - gee_fin on 13 Apr 2005 22:20:08

I've taken my car to Northfields in Stamford upon occasion. Never had any problems... ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

Yep, good point. I run a secondary battery in the boot for night stages. The HID gas discharge lights pull down less current than the xenons but with all the other electrickery on the car we need to run the extra one. I ran only one battery last year and when firing the solenoid for the paddleshift the lights would instantaneously dim each gear shift...sure made for some interesting moments. There's a very useful tool out there by BluePoint that will analyse your electrical system telling you wether your alternator is coping or not. Worth plugging one of those in for a quick check when setting up extra lights. Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

Yep, just one bolt through the nosecone each side. Was tempted to try and piggy back them on the indicator pods somehow but I couldn't find a useable and/or aesthetic solution. Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

...Resurrected from the dead... Fitted some PIAA spots today, shots here - here here here here here here here Sourced from Roger Clarke Motorsport, very very bright. They're brighter than the ultra xenons I run on mains and nearly as bright as the HID gas discharge lights. Incredible little units. Cost about £200. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

Usual method is to dump the EXUP, the only problem that this causes is the ECU will then send a fault code to the clocks through the clock's RPM feed. If you're not using the standard clocks then this is not a problem and can be ignored, if you are using the standard clocks then you need a little trick box to fool the ECU into thinking the EXUP is still connected and working. These are available from quite a few sources and there is a diagram on the Bike Transplant site if you want to wire your own :) Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

Brand new set, chamfered to 45degrees to aid bedding in. Totally unused. It's the newer RS15 compound, generally 5-10% better across the range (at stopping from cold, stopping from hot and the actual operating temperature range available) than the RS4-2s/RS14s. Yours for £100 plus postage. 07747 60 60 66/graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

Good point, forget about reverse lol. I'll add that too :) ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

I would always err on the side of caution, as mentioned above, it can be done cheap but the end result will generally reflect this. Most people just take the cost of an engine as the install and think that will be it. However, doing it properly will mean - - new engine - new prop - new diff ratio - new loom (and stripping of the bike loom) - new springs/damping ratios - new mounts/linkages/potential relocation of chassis bars etc - new exhaust manifold/silencer - potentially new bodywork/bonnet/panels - new dash - new gauges/switchgear - setup cost of jetting/sorting engine - changes in fueling setup/lines - reverse setup (if required) Throw in some potential registry/DVLA hassles if using a second-hand engine (ie. they may move you to a Q plate) and the fact that engine-changed Caterhams seem to lose value in the majority of cases so you will have likely knocked a chunk off the resale of your car. Of course, the flip side is if you can get good money for your existing setup and let that pay for most of the conversion. The work required will surprise you in how simple it is to fit the engine and once fitted they are great fun. But, the word of caution is, correctly/fully done, conversions are not as cheap as many would like or Internet lore would have us believe :) Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk Edited by - gee_fin on 17 Mar 2005 14:47:54

No worries, excellent service from them as well :) ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

We do next day service if you need it :) Cheers, Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

The thinned disks we sell (sold, will come to that later) were thinned, crossdrilled and chamfered. When doing this to an existing solid disc (I would only recommend using new discs) it has to be done to a certain pattern. The edges are chamfered and further steps are taken to ensure that cracking will not occur. The final results were that the discs were significiantly lighter than the standard item having had weight removed from many non-critical areas (have a quick look at brake_discs_01.jpg for an idea of the machining involved. On all four disks, in the vast majority of applications, this resulted in a 4kg+ weight saving in total (all unsprung of course). This service was only available on solid discs. We have since stopped selling the discs, nothing to do with the quality of the product, I actually still use a set myself and have been on the same set with no problems for the last two years, purely due to supplier issues - with lead times varying from one week to four months it became impossible to keep to deadlines and as such we had to drop the supplier. Hopefully we'll pick up the service again in the near future when we find a suitably gifted source. If interested in a set, I can send you direct to the previous supplier, as said, I have absolutely no issues with the quality of the work, just with the variable lead times! Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk Edited by - gee_fin on 8 Mar 2005 21:33:01

You mean Translogic I presume... :) ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

I think they're one and the same. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

I tried to buy one from them for about three months....and gave up trying. Looked a good system on paper, but they just never got back to me so I stopped trying and I'll likely install the Kit-Car Workshop/Techtronics one. The one to go for if you've got the cash is the MiL system. It's leaps and bound beyond anything else on the market. It's pneumatic (got it's own small compressor), all micoprocessor controlled (can detect dog-to-dog clashes etc) and even sorts out full throttle downshifts (I kid ye not) - so if you're coming out of a corner in 4th, and you should be in 2nd, just keep your foot planted and tap down two gears, it'll blip/ignition cut/etc and off you go. Stunning. As is the price... Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

Yep, the single mounting at the back is on a bearing. Looking at that pic that back mount should actually be mounted horizontally Also worth noting the fact they've drilled for different throw heights/strengths on the engine side (multiple holes), worth doing this so you can find the perfect throw/feel for the unit. Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

Just needs a simple bracket making up. Fraid it would be bespoke to the application, if not confident of doing it yourself, I'd speak to Arch. I just made mine out of some 3mm pre-preg carbon sheet, an alluminium plate would suffice though. Real simple, work though, it would take Arch an hour. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

I don't see any reason why it's not possible, just depends on the wheel. You're really on the after the microswithces, you can always cut new paddles from alluminium/carbon if required :) ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

All the different types of materials and weaves can be very confusing. The most commonly used is 2x2 twill. Have a quick nose at www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk/products/carbonfibre/types.html for a simplified/non-technical description. Of course, all the materials have varying properties, but tbh, in 90% of kit-car applications it comes down to aesthetics. Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

Yep, never drained the battery, even with the lamp pod running. Amusing when all lights (9 of them) are running though as, before I piggy backed the 'night battery', the lights would instaneously dim each gearchange Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

Some of the simple solenoid systems shift too fast and just go dog-to-dog bending shift forks. You really need something pneumatic-esque to cushion the shift. The Kliktronic is variable stroke so is okay(ish) with this, a flatshift system helps no end with the smoothness/reliability of the shift though. Paddleshift systems are a bitch to find for sensible money, tbh, the best bet is to cannabalise a decent video game wheel for (just) the paddle mech. Sounds silly but it will save you a lot of hassle and when combined with a decent Momo/SPA wheel you won't notice. Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk

Might be of help and somewhat in context gauge-wise - here :) Graeme. ________________________________________________________ graeme finlayson / tyre warmer / fluke motorsport graeme@fluke-motorsport.co.uk / www.fluke-motorsport.co.uk