Drumster

Just been to the garage and checked, mine are M4 (well an M4 nut moved freely up and down the thread) Avaialble from CC bu no size stated

When I rebuilt my 7 I asked Bruce at Arch if he could fit (what I believe were) the old style 'brackets' for theses lights. These comprise a simple metal tube welded to the bottom of the chassis where the tank sits and the reverse and fog lights simply hang down for these mounts. no need to drill holes in rear panel or rear wings. Note these are not the Caterham lights but small square ones from SVC

Always best to stop the car first

An early start for Crudders for tonights meal perhaps ?

See here. Very knowlegable 7 owner, has a touring as well as a track 7. Knows his onions as they say

Comes with a free bread maker.

Comes with a free bread maker.

Always worth checking which 'shade' of BRG you have as Caterham have had many over the years

I dismantled the silencer today and I was expecting it to be a bit of a pain but the bolts weren't seized and the outer can simply slid off the perforated tube with no problem. Quite impressed really for a 2nd hand silencer purchased in 2008 which hasn't been touched in the interim. There is no sign of an wire wool (if there was any) and the wadding looks like the loose stranded stuff that has compacted over the years leaving the silencer 1/3 empty at at the front. I've found the stuff in the garage, some remnants of the basalt packing, an unknown blanket roll (purchased from CBS I think?) and a blanket roll of Acousta-fil, which upon searching the website I found I had purchased as part of a bulk buy in February 2013 . That's next weekend job sorted I hate to think what else I've purchased over the years that is lurking in the garage

Duncan, thanks for that just need to find the stuff hidden in the garage to find out what I have... Anthony, same link as in Markiebabes post above , but thanks anyway

I removed the runners and my Tillett is bolted to the floor, without taking the seat out I can't confirm how many spacers I used but it would be much nearer to 10 than 2. My spacers are between the Tillett and the aluminium box section. As my car is a 1992 version I'll leave it someone else to explain about removing dampers as I'm pretty sure its a different set-up on a newer car.

AB & MB Thanks guys very useful indeed. I see CC are asking £94 for the refill kit, but I'm pretty sure I've a load of exhaust packing from the time I used to repack my Techcraft silencer. I'm hoping that I can use any clingfilm and what grade of wire wool would be preferable? TIA (again)

After fitting a 2nd hand silencer in 2008 it's probably time to take it apart and repack it........ I believe it's an original Caterham R300/R400/R500 silencer, so do I just undo the buttonhead bolts and pull the perforated tube out from the rear or do I need to remove the rivets from the front. Any guidance would be much appreciated.

Hi Chris, Thanks for the update

Search for 'Countersink drill bit' on t'internet, a couple of quid I'm not sure there are any official measurements but the centre of the holes of the aeroscreen mounts are 10mm from trailing edge and 145mm between the 2 inner mounts.

YHM

Mini HDVR camera for sale £25 inc P&P Inc. Bullet cam with external mic, 2 cases, 12v power lead, 2 x 240v battery chargers, 3 x batteries, remote control switch/lead, various mounts, USB lead, TV lead, 4GB micro SD card with adaptor and instruction manual. A good camera in the pre-Go Pro era, an example of the quality/sound can be seen . Yes, it's not Go Pro quality but its only £25 inc P&P. Might be useful for trackdays...... Specifications:

M4 will do the trick and I only used 12 but you'd probably get away with 6 in all honesty

Anthony, Re water ingress, I wouldn't worry. See my set up below Jenvey TBs with Emerald adjustable length intakes set at 140mm for maximum torque with Pipercross dual sock filters, so they do rather stick out a bit. Never had an issue with soaked filters or water ingress in engine bay and the car has been subjected to some pretty heavy rain at times. ETA - this is a standard x/flow bonnet (hole with rolled edge) now with Zetec inside, no fettling was needed to the hole

7WOTW, that makes sense ta. I've had the Tracsport gearset since December 2015 and yes it has the 2.29 1st. JK, car is used for everything from blatting to touring to sprinting/hillclimbing. Changes? Well, I don't need 2nd till until I'm on the motorway

Idle thoughts on a wet lunchtime. Does a change of gear ratios necessitate a remap for maximum performance. eg car was mapped by Dave Walker after the TB conversion on the standard ratio'd type 9 5 speed box. I have since changed to the Tracsport gearset where 1st, 2nd and 5th are different. Thoughts anyone?

Actually, it's priceless ....

Isn't it time we ditched this thread?

Just to add some more info on the Brooklands stanchion.... My screens and mirrors are mounted on the stanchion. The screens are secured using countersunk bolts from underneath and acorn nuts secured with threadlock on top. I have the SPA mirrors on mine and they are secured by the same method. The only problem with the side mirrors is that the adjustment screw would be inaccessible once bolted onto the stanchion. My solution was to drill a hole though the stanchion and also the scuttle allowing access to the adjustment screw with an Allen key from behind the knee trim panel.

The threaded bosses at the front on my '93 chassis are 7/16" and you'll need 2 bolts per front leg, these being 7/16" x 3/4" The rear bolts on my FIA bar are 3/8" x 3/4" and on the roll cage they are 1/2" x 1" both have thin hex heads as Paul says. Please note that my cage is a roadsport cage which is different from a superlight cage. The above information may be different for metric chassis Have a look at the following articles from the archives which provide a comprehensive guide. Article 1 Article 2