robsandbach

Thanks Jonathan, I really appreciate the quick reply! Some requested details it is a 2019 Academy Car with the 1.6 Sigma. Speedometer shown below: Thanks! Rob

Hello everyone, I wondered if more experienced members could help me triage this issue based on the following symptoms: - Speedometer is calibrated well and works as expected up to around 80mph - At, and above, 80mph the needle falls to 0. - When speeds return below 80mph the needle kicks back into life and reads accurately again. I'm completely new to this side of car ownership so even some basic areas to look at or tests to run would be much appreciated! Thanks, Rob

It looks like Ian mentioned it here : https://www.lotus7.club/comment/1722960#comment-1722960 Rereading it though it looks like more of a "if all else fails" option! I'm in Manchester - I'll give it a shot myself initially and if I have difficulties will reach out. Thanks, as always, for the support!

Thanks Tazio, that helps clarify things greatly. I read somewhere there's a special low profile socket you can use which I'll dig out. I don't have the kit to grind down a normal one!

Well I tried adjusting the location and ended up with them like this: I may take the advice given and adjust the profile of each stand's head. I managed to remove the front and rear bolts from the cage before the light faded. As I understand it the next job is to remove the rear dampers by loosening the bolt situated behind each seat's headrest. That lets me move the damper out of the way and access a bolt which, I assume, is going up from the bottom of the car into the roll cage? Its difficult to see anything as the trim panels in the boot area are all in the way - I assume there's no need to remove them? cheers all!

Thanks Jonathan, I had read the guide but struggled to get the axle stands right where the frame meets the tube as the top of the stands aren't wide enough to accommodate the nexus of tubes whereas slightly further back sits nicely within the "valley" on top of the stand. Would you recommend moving them there anyway? Thanks for the ongoing support. I really am leaning as I go!

Ok! I actually got started on this job today. The first time I have ever jacked up a car and removed tyres so a small victory. I was hoping someone could confirm the axle stands are in the correct / safe positions before I go to work on removing the seats underneath! Also the jacking point I used, based on my interpretation of the manual, was the central knot protruding down where the two a frames meet a hinge. Just checking I got that right! https://www.dropbox.com/s/jiqt3cyhc0kwmor/Photo%2025-01-2020%2C%2014%2052%2015.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/na3hv5ijd4n5x1f/Photo%2025-01-2020%2C%2015%2004%2054.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/x6lj3m17pboy28g/Photo%2025-01-2020%2C%2015%2005%2000.jpg?dl=0

Thank you for the further advice. It's not a decision I'm taking lightly and I am still considering which way to go. I do have the lowered floors already so perhaps my seating position just needs adjusting and that will solve my clearance and head tilt problem. It could be the previous driver has it mounted high I suppose - I'll check. From what I have read above though it would appear that with a roll cage I should wear a helmet whenever driving the car even on the road?

Thank you, sounds like another good reason to get rid of the roll cage as I won't be wearing a helmet on the road. Thank you for the advice, no doubt I will report back. I'll try 6 or so washers initially I think and bolt directly to the floor!

Some great advice, thank you. I've read about grinding down socket to remove the chamfered edge - I'll work on that. Johnathan - could you elaborate on the helmet near bars comment as it sounds relevant. At present my helmet rests against the "padding" (it seems as hard as the steel) in the roll bar. Without that padding it would rest free! That was another reason to get rid of the roll cage to be honest. At 5' 10" I had assumed the FIA roll cage would provide sufficient clearance?

Hello everyone, After my first track day in the 7 I've decided to give the Tillets a second chance as a) they didn't seem to bother me driving to and from the track (1 hour each way) and b) I like being able to use the 6 point harness my academy car has fitted to it and hadn't considered that wouldn't be possible with the leather seats. One problem I did have, which I've read is common, is my head being pushed forward slightly with my helmet on. I wanted to check that inserting these spacers under the front mounting bolts is a good first step to resolving that one and ask if anyone has any advice on how many might be required to angle the seat sufficiently? I wouldn't know whether to start with 2 or 10! I am assuming I would fit these spacers between the "rail" and the floor on the furthest forward bolt on each side. Given I always have my seat all the way back, might this be a good time to just bolt the seat to the floor for a bit of extra head clearance. Particularly pertinent because I am also strongly considering swapping the roll cage I have for an FIA rollbar. Given I am primarily using the car for non competitive track days and the odd trip through Wales I think I am comfortable with the increased risk as a tradeoff for ease of ingress/egress. I understand that I will need to "remove the rear suspension" to access a bolt for this - does anyone have a few tips as to what exactly that involves so I am not going in blind on Monday? Thank you all as usual for any help :)

I just wanted to thank everyone here. I completed the throttle pedal adjustment and took her out on track at Oulton Park today. What a car, what a feeling. Of course I have a bunch more questions, for which I will post an alternative thread, but thank you everyone for helping me get started with my first ever mechanical work! Much appreciated :)

Progress! Thanks to John and SM25T I managed to get the cable out and, eventually, the throttle pedal removed! I then spent a good hour trying to simply bolt it back into the new slot before giving up! I'm not sure whether it's best to try from above or contort myself into the footwell and do it from there but I'm going to try again tomorrow. I think one the challenges is the pedal shaft virtual holds the bolt head in place and prevents it coming out which makes trying to turn it a challenge. I'm thinking of bending the shaft back to allow free movement of the bolt to try and make the challenge of screwing it back in a little easier. Maybe some lubricant on the bolt too! Thanks, as always, for the help!

So had a couple of hours today with the car working on the pedal adjustment. The pedal box cover came off quite quickly - after that thing slowed down. It looks like the clutch and brake pedals hang off the same bar which can be in one of two locations (holes through the central bar) and it is presently in the furthest one back. I checked the brake switch, which I assume is the little white button to the right of the pedal, and it all looks good. The throttle pedal however is more promising - It too looks like it has two positions and is presently nearer the driver. I managed to get a vertical bolt out which holds the pedal "plate" against the box and it looks like it might be as simple as undoing the horizontal bolt running thought the pivot point, move it back and screw it back in! One question: the throttle cable doesn't want to come out. The "bead" is sat inside the pedal tube but a little bit of metal protrudes out of the back which prevents me lifting it out of the tube and freeing the cable from the pedal. Should I just snip or saw this off somehow to lift it out? When I move the pedal back I plan on working out how to "pull through" the throttle cable slack at the engine end and retighten to save having to move/recreate the "bead". Thank you for any help/warnings!

@Jonathan I have seen the various threads yes so have a few ideas but they're a little hard to follow without having the car to peer into. A lot reference bending the throttle pedal for a better position relative to the brake but I am more interested in just moving them all back which I believe is a reasonably simple adjustment. I am sure it will make sense when I open the pedal box. @Wrightpayne I believe the academy cars all have lowered floors so I am probably already benefiting I suspect. I am 5'10" - the pedals in a showroom Caterham seemed much more comfortable so I am hoping it's an easy adjustment :)