akakubi

Thanks, Steve!!! These are awesome pictures, telling everything I needed to know. Interestingly, it seems you have two (yellow/black) wires going to the earth point there, where I only have one cable - there were no more leads anywhere. Is the second one for some extra equipment (e.g. battery master switch perhaps? ). As for the heater, yup, they did forget to include parts. And to drill a hole in the scuttle as well. And the immobilizer is in the wrong place. 😬 So I guess I will have a bit of fiddling to do tomorrow (fingers crossed for the parts to arrive). Thanks again for the help!

Well, that's the thing, there is no space there to even fit the knob. And there is no hole drilled in the engine bay next to the pedal box - it's just solid scuttle.

Steve, Thanks! That is exactly what I ended up with: just two wires (red and black). Glad to hear that the car works just like that. My brown starter cable goes from the plus terminal on the starter (same as the red one) to the outside bolt on the alternator (the only place it can really reach). The battery negative is attached to the bellhousing. Another wierd bit is the heater. I am not sure if you opted to have one. Mine came without a valve (where the hoses split) and an adjuster cable. What is more, the footwell of my car looks nothing like the one pictured in the manual, so there is no place to even route the cable to. There are no pre-drilled holes and the potential place where the know could have been is taken by a plastic box (immobilizer?) and cables. The hose were also all different from the ones described in the manual. Have they switched the heater to a newer design that no longer requires the cable and the valve? Or am I missing those bits. I've phone the factory, but still waiting for the reply.

Thanks, jj! I see now where the little cable goes. I suppose I could probably extend it to the engine block somewhere as well? I will check under the dash tonight. It is a bit tight there, though. Can you tell me where exactly to look to find the earth connections under there? Also, I do not have a brown cable (from the starter I presume) going back to the battery. There is only one brown lead and it goes to the alternator in my case (R400 Duratec). Only one red one goes back to the + battery so far. Or am I missing a cable from somewhere?

I have the usual Banner battery, but I a bit puzzled by what needs to be connected to the terminals. I figured out that there are no special connections, everything just bolts on. The manual, however, fails to specify what exactly connects to the positive terminal. I can see there are at least two (maybe three) wires in the picture (in the manual that is) that go under the plastic lid, but aside from the thick red cable, I cannot tell what the other/s are. I also have a short (two wires black/yello I think) lead with a round terminal that comes out of the engine loom near the battery. Where does it go? Any help, please? Pictures would help too. Thx!

I was readin up on your past experiences (and some solutions) and came to the conclusion that I need to attach some form of heat shielding at the footwells and maybe around the headers. I was thinking of maybe attaching that aluminium cardboard (is it?) used on most cars to the outside of the footwells. And perhaps either covering the headers with a heatshield or wrapping the oil breather hose with something. Has anyone tried anything like that (or maybe a much better solution at that)? Pictures would be greatly appreciated. Thx! P.S. In case the engine bay layout matters, it's the Duratec R400 SV.

I wasn't aware we had to go through the ESVA... I thought it was just SVA. That's what at least my instructions said...

Just placed an order for these as well.

Thanks for all the advice! Essex7, I would love to see the pictures (close ups if you have). The factory guys told me to use self-tapping screws, but I think rivets would be stronger.

Has anyone done these? How do you attach them to the body? Drill and screw or double-sided tape?

Would a bit of Loctite do the trick?

Not sure whether Caterham's version of the Duratec is, but BMW's 6 and regular Duratec (2.5L V6) had them. These would get fouled over time and throw off the check engine light. The BMW would also stall occasionally under braking in hot weather. Edited by - akakubi on 9 May 2008 08:58:05

Thanks, Kevin! This setup seems a bit too extreme for me though. I'd rather prefer not to have the bulge. But the filter arrangement is interesting. I wonder if some standard cone filter box (say from the tuned Honda/Vaushaul crowd) could be adapted and then connected to the MAF with a flexible hose. Something to play with over the next winter season then, I guess. 😬

Yup, this now makes sense. Something like this for sure.

Ah, that sounds interesting. What did you wrap the filter in to keep it cool? How wide is the diameter of the duct? And, finally, did you have any issues with excessive dirt on the filter itself. The reason I ask, is that I had a few cold air intakes on my other cars before and some of them threw off the MAF sensor after a while (even though I regularly cleaned the filter - K&N).

I look at the images of all of the engine options in the current Sevens (minus the R500) and cannot help wondering that having the air filter cone sitting so close to the hot running engine may not be good for performance. Aside from the carbon intake (as in the R500), has anyone done any kind of shielding or routing of colder air to the cone? Did it help? Or maybe I am not seeing straight and it does not really matter at all on the Sevens? thx

Thx, it does seem to be a logical place for it. Good to know it would fit there.

I plan to istall an airhorn at some point (yeah, I know it add weight and useless, but I always dreamt of having the horn sound like the older days Lambo's (CANNOBALLRUN anyone? 😬) ). Where would the best place to be and will the OEM horn fit there for the time being (SVA compliancy and all)? Thanks!

Can only say the same thing. Tried them on my 330Ci long ago and they were not up to standard. Pagids were fine, same as Axxis and Performance Friction. Wonder if the latter two would work on the Seven as well 🤔

Thanks, Mark! I got a quote from Armourfend installers for £650 full car done and they wanted it for one day in their shop. I will try this place as well when I get near the end of build.

Has anyone had this installed (Armourfend or similar) and if so how does it hold up? Did you have to leaver the car with the shop for long? Also, what is the going rate to do the main bits? I had a lot of chips on my BMW from track debris before, so I wanted to have something protecting the Seven this time around. Thx!