akakubi

That is good to know. If the intercom can replace the ear plugs I was contemplating to get and yet still provide all the other obvious benefits, that may be the item to get next then.

How much of external noise is filtered in? Would you be able to hear other cars/horns/signals/engine? And can you use the system without a helmet on the road?

John, I moved the sensor so close, the light barely passes through. I was afraid the teeth of the gear would touch the sensor if they were not all straight, but it worked just fine.

I think the Duratec sounds fantastic at over 5000RPM. It's a bit on a rough side below that, I agree, but then it fits the Seven's image quite well. My friend has an S2000 (the original one with 9000rpm redline) and it does sound fantastic once it hits the cam. But the Duratec has a flatter torque curve and has a more linear power delivery. That said, if BMW made an inline 6 as light as the Duratec and it if fit.... 😬

The problem is fixed. I adjusted the gap to within a 1/3mm and it is all sorted. Test-ran it to a ton and it worked like a swiss watch. 😬

Loving it! Minor bits, like the crazy speedo and the brake light switch that needs to be moved closer or the lights come on only when I brake hard. A bit dangerous considering that we barely need to touch brakes at town speeds. I was told off by a delivery van driver yesterday 😬

Mark! Try Willans or Schroth. They do other than standard colours on request. http://www.schroth.com/ http://willansmotorsport.com/index.php/Products.html

ROFL 😬 😬 😬

Will do this weekend. Yesterday, when i drove, it seemed to go crazy sometimes from 65mph, sometimes after 70mph. At least it was accurate where the speed cameras were (fingers crossed 😬). I'll let you know.

Thanks, John. Will try that.

Now that you mentioned it, I have a strange rev counter issue too. Mine counts around 1100-1400rpm bouncing between the two marks. I did ask the CC guys to check at the inspection but they left it as is. I have not yet revved it beyond 5K (break in), so i am not sure where on the "clock" the limiter would cut in. Would also be interested to know how to fix it.

Well, mine came that way stock, so I guess CC switched to bike-style sensors now. How much of a gap do you have? Mine is very small (1-2mm I think tops). Should it be further away of even closer?

Guys, sorry for bringing this up again. I am talking to Chris from Compotitive and we try to work out what offsets I need for front and rear for the 6"F and 7"R wheels. Do you guys know yours (mine is a new De-Dion SV if that makes any difference with stock 15" 195 CR500 rubber all around). Suggested offset now: 6" for the front at ET23 7" for the rear at ET34 Thx Edited by - akakubi on 14 Jul 2008 14:26:20

My speedo goes wacky above 85mph. I think the speed sensor at the rear wheel is getting confused. The speedo is very accurate below that threshold. Is there a standard fix (like the size of the gap between the wheel sensor and the hub)? I went by the book, but it does not seem to be correct...

Thanks guys! I think this is the kind of setup that makes sense to me as well. I will ponder over the design in the winter days, I think. After a 150-mile trip today (what an insane car - my wife and I had so much fun blatting about), the car ran absolutely fine and started right away. Some of it must have been due to the colder morning air, I suspect. But as a long-term solution, the filter must go up front. Pat: no, never press the "fun" pedal on starts. Not since the days of carbs. 😬

Thanks, Dave! Looks serious. I will check the sensor as well.

I have noticed something that I think is related to the poor location of the air filter on at least the R400 Duratec. When the car is at speed, the air is circulating under the bonnet and the engine gets sufficient (more or less) air to keep going. The thing I noticed though is that it starts to run rich with the ambient temps up. Then, if I stop and shut off the engine and then try to refire it after maybe a minute or so, it would hesitate (upto 10 sec at times). I can feel the heat in the footwell, so I assume the air under the bonnet is too hot to be dense/cold enough to allow for the most efficient operation. Perhaps that's why the C400 and R500 have those fancy airboxes. I am not very keen on the look of it though, so I was wondering how the guys who did a cold air intake modification of their own had gone about doing it. I was thinking of routing some flexible ducting from the throttle body to the front of the car somewhere and relocating the airl filter there. Any ideas/hints/tips and pictures would be greatly appreciated!

oooh, that looks great! I think i found my new wheels and tyres. 😬

How do these compare to the Caterham wheels in terms of built quality and weight?

Thanks, Shaun! Good to know that the 8" wheels should fit okay. I think I will look at Toyo and Yokos.

I have stock 15" CR500 (195) all around. I think I may keep them for the road use and perhaps just give them a thrashing on a track day or two just to see how they handle/wear. Naturally, I would want to get a dedicated set for the track and other speed-related activities. 😬 I've read most of the archives about the choices availalbe (and cool size calculators): Option 1: Stay with the 15" and get some suitable rubber (maybe go staggered 185/205?) Option 2: Get the Caterham 8-spoke 13". Now here is where it gets complicated with the choices of tyre and sizes: Fronts 175/55 or 175/60 or is there a 185/195 that would fit just as well to cut on understeer a bit? Rears seem to be 205/215 on an 8". Also, I am bit confused with rear fitment. Mine is a Duratec R400 - De-Dion, so do I need to shave off the ears to fit the 8" Caterham wheels? Do I need to readjust the front suspension as well then? I like the way it feels now, so not sure if I want to spoil that at the moment. Option 3 (an out "there" one): What's wrong with having a CSR setup? Not enough tyre choices? But would they fit or require extensive mods? Cheers!

Correct on the above. 1. Bend the pedal as much as you need. And (if you have the pedal stop), wind it down to the min. Then, also make sure you left a bit of slack at the throttle side of things, so that you can adjust later with the adjuster screw. 2. Light off completely when disarmed.

Thanks! It is indeed so much fun. I was expecting it to be much worse actually. Apart from getting in and out, trapped manure smell that tended to linger for a while, and a bit of heat build up from the footwell, it was not bad at all. 😬

Seems like a very old thread, but I figured I'd chime in as well. Was driving in the wet on Saturday after picking up my car from CC Midlands. The best driving feeling I've had in a while ever with the full hood up. Even my wife loved every minute of it Anyhow, lots and lots of dirts and cow crap was flying upwards, mucking up everything at the back. So I decided to do the flaps as well. I had spare CF wing protectors since I never fitted them (CF rear wings), so I just cut one up into two 6" long pieces and attached to the cycle wings. They fit very well and look great. Also, they do not flap around. So far, no scrapes, but will have to see in the future. Cut on dirt drastically.

Ohh, cool, you'll see my car there awaiting its plates (Y/B R400SV). 😬 😬