akakubi

John, They narrowed the gap to 0.5mm and then replaced the sensor when that didn't work. I don't have any problems in the dry at all, track or road, no matter how long the drive is or how hot/cold the weather is. Hard cornering does not affect it. It only goes bonkers when it's wet, even slightly, and does it only above certain speed. I do notice a lot of muck building up in the sensor gap over time, though, so I clean it regularly. I wonder why they don't pick off speed from somewhere else? Val

Have the same problem. It only manifests itself when the road is wet, though. I suspect the water affects the sensor somehow. CC tried to fix it, but to no avail. It normally goes to zero if the speeds rise above 70mph.

I decided against butchering and bought a set of thin sparco pedals (don't remember the name). I then drilled a hole in the front side of the loop for the top sparco pedal bolt and one 90 degrees to it at the bottom of the loop. Then bent a 1mm metal strip (about 90 degrees) and drilled a couple of holes in that, so that one hole aligns with the bottom hole on the gas pedal loop and the other with the second (lower) hole in the saprco pedal. The fit is very solid. It works perfectly and looks fine. I don't have a picture of it unfortunately (need to take some )

I had the same issue, especially on hotter days. I figured it was the placement of the air filter. It sits in the hottest area of the engine bay, so the air it has to digest is probably very thin. When driving, the cooler air reaches it, but once stationary... Anyhow, I decided to make a "cold air" intake. I bought a flexible air hose (similar diameter as the air filter), a carbon air intake/filter thingy and a heat blanket to shield the hose from the exhaust pipes (it routed along the side wall next to the exhaust). The air comes from above the radiator (used a scoop to expand the inlet area). It looks crude-ish, but work perfectly well. Feels like it pulls harder a bit. On a side note, It now guzzles more fuel too. I don't have a picture of the contraption handy unfortunately. ☹️

Yup, guilty as charged. 😬 *wavey*

I have been using 5W50 as per Caterham's recommendation for 2 yrs now. Works fine on the road or track.

Neatly tucked in Hi again

If I am not mistaken, there is an adjustment bolt (allen I think) on the rack itself. You may try adjusting that (not 100% if this would work though).

Could be the diff breather. Mine was spewing oil out of it like mad under hard use. I now affixed a "catch tank" of sorts to stop it.

My vote goes to Compotitive CXR. You can get them in many shades of grey as I recall. I went with 13" and Yokos A048 combination (185/F and 205/R). The guys over there will do any offset you specify. And the quality is great.

I believe there should be a rectangular metal cap over it. The hole leads to nowhere vital to be honest. There is a clutch bleed nipple and the hose. That's about it, if I recall correctly.

I made them from a cabon fiber sheet that originally comes as a rear wing protector. My rear wings are CF, so I did not need to install the protectors. One sheet was enough for both guards. Drilled a couple of small holes in the front wings and used a pair of rivets and black plastic washers. They blend well with the front CF and stop most of the crap flying into the car.

Yup, the filter is in the way, but the hoses can go under it. Shorten the flow splitter connections and it fits just fine. Sorry, I don't have a pic handy.

Andrew, Mine is an SV and I have no heat build up issues, even on the hot summer day on the track. The tunnel gets warm but not hot. I have no insulation in the tunnel at all. I do have the CC leather tunnel cover though and my thigh rests on it, so I never actually touch the bare metal. The worst heat build up you'll experience is sitting in a traffic jam on a hot day. ☹️

No, no details yet. But there is "room" for an extra 20bhp (I suspect the R500 intake will do the trick). The dash very well may be too.

I have one. R400 Duratecs are definitely out there and are great fun to drive. I hear CC is planning a refresh of them next year.

Sorry to hear that. So far so good on mine (fingers crossed). One tiny leak at the very beginning was due to me being a muppet. T 😬 he lower hose was not tight enough. BTW, mine is also an April 2008 kit.

Hi fellas! I was driving around last weekend and noticed a bit of hesitation coming out of corner at around 3K RPM. The car felt like it had a traction control system installed. The car felt fine at higher revs. Got home, popped the boonet open and smelled a tiny bit of burnt oil. But no stains or visible leakes anywhere. I figure the plugs may have been acting up. Remove the spark plug cover and guess what I see? The two retaining bolts that hold the cam cover are almost totally out. Oil was covering the area between the plugs (not much though). I then re-checked every bolt on the engine and all of the screws holding the cam cover were either totally loose or on the way there. Very strange. The plugs were clean-ish (the two nearest to the loose bolts had oil covered threads almost all the way to the tip). The engine ran like clockwork after the fix. Perhaps the vibrations are causing it or the cam cover was not properly set from the beginning (although this would have probably been picked up at service). Trouble is the two center bolts are impossible to see without removing the cover and even then it's hard to tell under the spark plug rubber boots. It may be worth checking this bit on your cars if it feels "funny" to drive.

True. 😬 I try to do track days as much as possible. Yes, I do go to Penn7 very occasionally. I live very close to Markiebabes, so he drags me out there from time to time. Cheers, Val

I'm still not brave enough to bring it to the office. 😳 Mine is an R400 Duratec, Yellow. Glad to see there are a few of us here.

Indeed! 😬 In Planning. I'm parked a few cars away on the same lot. I always knew there had to be someone else on the inside. 😬

A red one neatly tucked in by a wooden fence.

The alternator comes off. I had the same issue when fitting my Duratec into the SV chassis. Easy to refit and tension the belt.

A note of caution though. While the amount going in is probably the required one, the one that the diff will spit out from the breather hole is quite a lot. You will be okay on the road, but if you take it to the track (or drive closer to the limits), the diff will start spewing oil all over the driver's side wheel and suspension - very messy. ☹️ You may want to consider designing some form of a catch tank. I used an empty plastic bottle and a silicone hose. No more mess.

I have a similar problem. NArrowing the gap to the point of almost touching has completely fixed it in the dry weather. But when it rains even a tiny bit, the gauge starts to play up again. So far, CC had no suggested fix. ☹️