akakubi

Do you have the diode that goes into the inertia switch present? Mine was missing and it would not start. Also, when they did send a replacement, it was backwards, so did not work either. You can try to put a wire across it and see if that fires. If the immobilizer is a suspect, remove its fuse and try without it. The little wire on my car works as a ground just fine. But do check the ground at the engine mount bolt. You really need to scuff the paint away there. Otherwise, I am running out of ideas.

Thanks for a great event indeed! Agree on the red flags misfortune (which seemed to mostly involve the rent-a-caterhams ), but otherwise an awesome drive. The track is very technical to go quickly around it and asked for some commitment when on the bank in turn 4 drifting out towards the concrete wall. Need a lot more track time on it next year, fellas (hint hint 😬) Edited by - akakubi on 19 Oct 2008 15:37:27

How many Nm is that then? How does it convert from one to the other?

The bolt should prevent any movement at the UJ. However, have you checked the bolt at the top end (near the bulkhead). The bracket there can work itself loose and allow the play.

Had exact same experience building my R400 a few months back. It was often solving a puzzle rather than building the thing. The most frustrating bits were the missing/wrong parts supplied as they delayed the build considerably at times. The alternator removal for the engine to fit was one of those. I also had a missing fuel pump diode that took about 6 long hours to discover (after scraping off pain off every ground connection and rewiring of alternator and even diassembling of the immobilizer and ignition switch.... 😔). It all went away, however, as soon as she fired up.

I had that happen to me twice (Duratec R400), but I think that if you let the fuel pump prime fully before firing up, it should start right away. I was worried at track days especially, but that has not been an issue for a while since the trick.

I haven't driven it without the bonnet off yet, but I checked for scratch/scuff marks on the inside and did not spot any obvious ones. I will check again... 😳

Hmmm, I have not checked that. The bracket is solid though, but I will see the tray. Cheers!

Nope, that didn't work. The rattle is still there. Now it sounds as if the body panel rattling against something (chassis tube?). Otherwise, nothing is obviously loose there.

Guys, I spent last Saturday listening to the noise. It goes away after 4500RPM. It is not drowned by the engine roar, I checked. The rattle seems to be getting loudest at 3000-3300 RPM. And it came squarely from the passenger side dashboard area. The gearbox (unless the sound is internal) is bolted solidly and all bits attached to it were still there firmly. So I went one by one wiggling each component of the dash. Nothing made sound except the very last warning light/switch. When I shook it, it made the most annoying screech ever, even if only moved ever so slightly. If I shook it more vigorously, it kind of sounded like the very same rattle. Took the switch out, lubed the plastic, added a bit of liquid rubber seal and it is silent now. But, I have not had a chance to road-test it yet, so I have no idea if that has solved the problem. Will update after the weekend.

So I guess it is similar to the traction and treadwear abbreviations (e.g. A 220 on the BMW rubber, or C 50 on the A048). 😬

Sorry to hijack the thread, but speaking of the tyre widths. I have A048 and CR500. Yokos at the back are 205 (13") and CR500 are 195 (15"), but I could swear the contact patch on the CR500 is wider than the A048... Also, the CR500 look almost square from surface to sidewall.

That would be great indeed Now I need to check under the seat more carfully. 😬

Cheers! If it is inside the gearbox, then it may be serious. I hope it is rather (fingers crossed) something like a loose gear lever fitment or a fault in the rubber bushing holding the gearbox in place... Looking forward to seeing how you progress with it. Val

Adam, have you had any luck with the rattle? Mine has developed a similar one (R400 Duratec). It seems to be coming from the passenger side somewhere, but I cannot pinpoint where exactly. The rattle, which sounds more like a loose nut bouncing around, happens in all forward gears at around 2500RPM to about 3500RPM (maybe more, but I can't hear it over the noise). I checked all of the components (by hand) and nothing is loose. The rattles is not there when the car is stationary (i.e. revving in neutral). I did find the plug cover loose (all bolts were out, I have no idea how it still held in place 😳), but after fixing it back, the rattle is still there. It drives me nuts, to be honest. ☹️ On a side note, I have an "old couch" squeak from the passenger rear side as well on bumpy roads. I re-lubed the sway bar and it went away for a while, but it is back again. Is there a fix for it or do I have to grease the bushings after each track day. 😬 cheers

One bolt in the existing hole and drilled one new. The mirrors themselves look terrific, but the passenger side is a bit useless to me. I can't see anything properly out of it. The driver's side works fine, however.

Thanks, Geoff! The form will go out tonight. 😬

Have I missed the deadline? Are there anymore spaces available? I'd love to come up there. Cheers Val

CR500 are better provided the tread is still good. That said, Toyos are better than Yokos A048 in the wet, which do not work at all in any sort of standing water. 😬

Steve, Mine clunks audibly on upshifts (I do have an LSD though). The gearbox is precise, but not what I'd call silent. It has a feeling of a (old) rifle bolt being slotted in. And the gearbox also gets quite warm after some miles.

Congrats, Steve! Now the fun is about to begin. 😬

I spliced into the windscreen heater switch for the 'comm and into the regular heater fan for the power socket. Both are only powered when the ignition is on. The biggest pain was being upside-down in the footwell with leg dangling above the rollbar. 😬 😬

Cool, thanks.

How did those of you who use Autocom wire it into the car? What is the best lead to take? Also, I was thinking of adding a power socket as well, so the same question applies to it. What size fuse to use? Cheers

Glad to hear! I think you should be fine all the way "up" in the illegal ranges.