AntonyH
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Everything posted by AntonyH
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^^ What Duncan says about finishing the vinyl where you’ve separated it. Pliers essential! I recently replaced the standard polycarbonate of the original conversions with margard, which has a hardened coating. The originals has started to get a bit scratched over the three years of use; hopefully these will last longer (margard is significantly pricier). I’ve almost never used the quarterlight or windowless options because it’s rarely consistently hot enough to demand it. The largest advantage remains the absence of the blind spots caused by the stock frames.
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Following a Powerspeed delivery... Standard K-series system with 4-1 primary (all inside the body) and single pipe exhaust with cat and silencer in one lump. Being from an SV the main pipe won’t fit an S3 but I believe the primary is common (?). Complete with black heat shield, that’s losing its black on the leading corners. I also have a second black heat shield that’s not the prettiest. £100 the lot, collect from Sheffield.
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Thanks all
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I need to stick a nose badge onto a new nose - is there a recommended glue, or other solution e.g. rear view mirror sticky pads, etc? First I have to remove it from the old, scrap, nose, obviously...
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I’ve ordered some at 8mm too. I’ll test on the old nose!
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Derek, don’t worry - he was the instructor demanding I feed in more power exiting a corner when I was already doing 59.999mph.
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Damn, sorry SM25T... I trawled the calendar and as far as I could see it “only” clashed with the Laon tour. As Derek suggests though, it’s difficult. Taking the year from the start of BST and avoiding the Speed Championship, events like Stoneleigh, Donington Historic, Silverstone Classic, etc, bank holiday weekends, the Tour de Yorkshire, school holidays (different in South and North Yorkshire!) and my mother’s birthday weekend, June 8th was the only available Saturday before at least September. And that, as above, was by ignoring the clash with the multi-day Laon tour...
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Thank you!
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Hi all, When pop-riveting, how much longer than the total material thickness should the rivets be? I have a new nose and dzus fasteners to pop-rivet to it; I have some 6mm long (3mm dia) rivets, but with about 4mm of fibreglass and metal I'm thinking they may not be long enough - although it's not exactly a high-stress application.
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Hi all, Anyone got a spare, non-leaking, fuel tank for an imperial (2005 K) SV? Redline are out of stock as are Caterham.
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I have a non-leaking original (plastic top and bottom chambers) if all else fails. Removed due to dents in the fins and one rail (Audi clown collision damage), so not for a permanent fix but should get you back running in the meantime.
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On your way to see Mr Gemzoe, at Wadsley Bridge.
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Thanks Stu - but there’s not enough slack in the wire to get the plug down and clear of the car, so that’d have to be done with the plug still in the tiny gap between the tank and the sideskin. I’ll also investigate John’s suggestion and see if I can turn the plug, to see if that helps. Ta
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Thanks all. Not that keen on disturbing the tank, something about shuffling several gallons of petrol I’m wary of, no idea why... Someone else has pointed out that the lump on the plug that’s causing the problem is intended to let you secure the connectors to a hardpoint in a vehicle, which isn’t done here - therefore said lump could be removed. I’ll be trying this approach first, next time I give it a go (it’s gone cold and grey out there now!). Cutting wires and fitting spades in the new unit would be easy enough but would also mean enlarging the hole out the back, to get the spades through, so if I can sort it with minor econoseal butchery, that’ll be the easiest and best approach.
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I’ve just bought a Just Add Lightness fog light. Problem... the hole in the rear skin isn’t big enough to release the existing fog plug with the fuel tank in place (have already unplugged from the loom). Any solutions other than (a) taking a file to the car or (b) taking the fuel tank out? The original fog has 6mm spade terminals inside the light so these could come off and the wire could go out the other way, but the JAL unit doesn’t. I guess I could cut the new wires and add said spade terminals. Anyone found / overcome this issue?
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:D Thanks Dave.
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Thanks both!
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Is a front wheel bearing replacement something I could reasonably do at home, i.e. without specialist tools? Presumably I'll need a "sodding big" socket, and some ability to not under or over-tighten things... Is it reasonably easy, or is it going to involve large amounts of work pressing bearings out/in that's best left to a suitably-equipped expert?
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Just now (14:30, February 18th), yellow with twin black stripes, stuck in a traffic jam trying to head south on the A61 from the A617 island.
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On the wild off chance... Does anyone have a decent 4-2-1 exhaust for a K-series SV that, somehow, doesn’t have a car attached at the moment and for inexplicable reasons you haven’t already sold? I probably need a cat in there too, for passing the MOT emissions due to the age of the car. Would also consider parts, if for example you had the primaries and secondaries but not the can or cat.
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2018 Trackday Safety Requirements (includes rollover bar content)
AntonyH replied to Shortshift's topic in TechTalk
Thanks to James and the team for not only undertaking this work, but also for the monumental task of going through 147 pages of report so that we don't have to. -
Turns out, it’s actually eligible for a free battery replacement anyway, according to Apple. So much the better, I’ll get that sorted. :)
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Hi Paul, I have a redundant 6S. Can’t remember it’s memory size, but will check. Battery is 2+ years old and therefore runtime is not great (needs charging every night; more if you’re using it as a satnav with the GPS and data running full time). I’ll investigate the cost of battery replacement - haven’t bothered up to now as there was no point.
