AntonyH

Yes, it really, really, ought to be time for Caterham to spec a decent replacement that people behind you can actually see. Since I did mine there are, I'm sure, a few more rectangular LED units available which may be closer to the current stock units. Julian, do have a good trawl around...

Thanks - the tools arrived today! The front suspension was taken apart and reassembled in May so I'm hoping they'll be fine. The rear... er... well that's been a bit longer, I think. Copaslip at the ready for reassembly...

Just hope he's also zipped his fly... A while back you were talking about the rear lights and the big heavy horrible rubber blocks; I didn't see whether you'd found any CF replacements yet (?) - if not, I cut about 0.38kg off our car by replacing the factory lights with something rather brighter: http://www.lotus7.club/blogs/better-rear-lights-project Not everyone will prefer them to the original caravan lights, obviously. NB. The goal was to get visible rear lights; the weight saving was a happy coincidence. Just as well, being as it cost about £1 per gram...

Thanks Charles. Have ordered some suitable imperial sockets and bits, having found that the (few) imperial pieces in my Halfords set cover all the sizes up to, but not including, the ones one needs for this job...

Hear hear. I spent 16 years voluntarily building and running a site for another (far less well funded) organisation, in return for an occasional word of thanks but equally as (or more?) often, complaints when something wasn't perfect. Rebuilding Barry's car for him is the least we can do.

Yes, you just connect the 12V direct to the 6.3mm spade terminals of the USB module and it does the step down. The packet even includes a set of crimp spade connectors if you don't happen to have a bunch already. The USB module is exactly the same length (depth?) as the 12V socket, also, so should you ever feel the need to swap them about there's no issue with cable length or the amount of space you'd allowed initially.

Indeed, but I can access the internet but not currently call. Ta! And thanks for the setup guide by the way.

Many thanks. Any idea about the lower rear?

Can anyone point me to the correct spanner/allen sizes for the shock absorber mounting bolts on a 2005 K-series SV? The upper bolt for the front shocks is a 1/2" hex head, no problem. I know this because I have a 1/2" socket that fits fine. The lower bolt at the front is an allen bolt, that's somewhere between 5 and 6mm and presumably also imperial - 7/32"? At the rear the sizes are different (larger) but I can't readily determine which allen size at the top, nor which hex at the bottom. The build manual only gives the correct torques for each bolt, not what size tool you need... Thanks in advance

Just fitted the twin-use Carchet that GJT linked to / pictured above to the Defender (the RAF having removed the cigarette lighter for no-smoking purposes). Seems nicely solid. I'm not fussed about the two different current capacities, mostly because all our "current" devices seem quite happy plugged into either. iPhones just charge faster when plugged into an iPad (2A) charger, for example. ...all fitted nicely into an equipment box fitted into the centre cubby. The non-protected switch energises the outlets, the 'missile switch' is for the in-cubby light.

Our full hood did once start to unbutton itself at 60mph, however I suspect that's because I'd put it on in a hurry because it was raining. On the other hand, we've visited the Isle of Man, and our Oxted / Thundersports mohair half hood has remained secure at over 80mph. Personally, 80mph is somewhere around the top of my comfort zone in inclement conditions and/or at night (where "dry but cold" might suggest use of the hood), so if it didn't remain in place at higher speeds I'd most likely never find out, nor care!

I hadn't. Come to that I hadn't even heard of polevolt before... They do indeed have a switch in their ranks that exactly matches (and is rather cheaper than the ignition/starter switch from JJC). Many thanks!

Thanks for the link. That operation, yes, but MrsH (and, yes, OK, me too) is wanting a bank of matching toggle switches, to do various things in her "new" old Defender. Currently everything in the middle of the dash has a different style of switch, most of which are non-standard and appear to be whatever the RAF had in the bucket at the time... great for not confusing functions but not quite tarty enough.

Hi all, Maybe my google searching isn't up to par... I'm looking for a 12V x 20A toggle switch with three positions, those being (latched) "Off" at one end, (latched) "On" for one circuit in the middle, then a third (momentary) position whereby the first circuit remains on and a second circuit is additionally energised while the switch is held in that third position. This sort of form factor (illumination optional!): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Illuminated-On-Off-Toggle-Flick-Switch-Lighted-Car-Dash-Dashboard-12V-20A-/281665614835 The use case being, a single switch for a rear wash-wipe (oddly, not on the Caterham...). The switch would enable the wiper to be off or on, and when on a further push down of the lever would run the washer spray. So far, I can't find such a switch, but I can't be the first person to want one and therefore there's a chance that someone produces one. Any pointers welcome... Thanks!

Apparently owned by one of the staff, spotted as we were having the Defender MOT'ed. Has some club Le Mans stickers on the rear arches, but from 2006 so possibly placed there by a prior owner. Also with what looked a lot like a set of Nifty's stanchion mirror mount clips.

Yup, Rog and Anne.

Sounds like Dave and Simon heading back to Sheffield from an afternoon of spectating at Curborough. Neither of them spend a particularly large amount of time online so unlikely to see this, but I'll let them know.

Thanks, I'll try that - although it's rocked to check operation before every day out, so I'm thinking it's more likely the contacts are worn, than just grotty. Or maybe the switch had ingested some moisture or other contaminent that caused the problem. I'll give it a few goes to see if I can repeat the fault, ta.

Definitely an electronic speedo, according to the wires plugged in to the back. Coincidentally (probably), it occurs, my hazard switch has just started occasionally playing up - the other day I turned it off but a bit later the tell-tale in the switch started flashing, although the indicators didn't. Seems highly unlikely to be related (it would be a *very* weird intereference issue!), although it's clearly time to replace the switch regardless.

Hi all... Until recently my speedo has been fine - rock solid and reliable. In the last 500 miles or so though, it's started occasionally "bouncing". I'll be driving along at a steady speed - 50, let's say - and the needle will flick up to 60/70/80 then return to 50, sometimes bouncing around a bit when it does and sometimes doing this repeatedly before settling down. It's a 2005 K-series, 6-speed box with the speedo sensor on the drive shaft immediately to the rear of the 'box. I'm suspecting a failing speedo sensor rather than a dodgy speedo unit, but anything else it might be? Thanks in advance.

If I was in the market I'd probably have been in touch, it's a great spec. Good luck!

...in the unlikely event of someone wanting an original of themselves, do ask. And if you're one of the gardeners, you'll be "delighted" to know most of each sequence of pictures didn't make it online.

On facebook, but everyone should be able to see them... https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1033303230016000.1073741847.452126208133708&type=3 A very limited set (64) of everything I shot that day (about 1,500 - that's the problem of 9 frames per second!). I am quite annoyed that the picture I like the most is of a replikit not a Caterham, but that's just one of those things.

Missed out? Never mind, you could have this nice little open-topped project instead... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-205-Cabriolet-MONSTER-TRUCK/271952917482

I've got some very similar... I think we were stood about 6 feet apart at the time! A few from some other redefinitions of track limits, too.