Dunsfold Dave

Looking from inside the wing the rear part is just fixed with nuts bolts and washers accessible from both sides, but the front section you cannot locate the nuts to the inside because of the inner skin. From inside the wing these appear to be different from the rear fixing as what I see appears to the be the top of a bolt. Should I just be able to remove these or do I need to take off the inner skin to get to the nuts behind? DD

It looked like fun but I headed off before the traffic jam to make it home across country. DD

Drove alongside in my Jag and gave them a wave. DD

Quoting Garth: Hi Dave - YHM Garth Hi Garth I have no email in by inbox Edited by - Dunsfold Dave on 17 Sep 2012 19:08:01

Hi The rims are the same age as the tyres two years. DD

I would say 3/4mm I could email some pics if you want?

Full set. Anthracite 8 spoke superlight wheels 6 x 13" front and 8 x 13" rears fitted with Avon ZZR's, 185 fronts and 215 rears. I have used the tyres and wheels on two track days so part worn. Simply amazing grip. Really looking for £600 the set

I saw that, while having a pint out side the Richard Onslow. DD

2010 reg plate parked in my office car park. Looked very clean and shiny. DD

yeh spent loads on petrol this weekend

Ah so the ECU MAP averages out the pressure from the sensor. So excuse me if this is thick... 1. Throttle pot position tells the ECU what sort of throttle opening we want. 2. The ECU will inject fuel and time the spark? depending on average Air flow available which it calculates from the air pressure and air temperature sensors which in my case are both in the air box. DD

if there is no ram air effect i.e a positive air pressure in the airbox then the only way air will get in is for it to be 'sucked in' i.e. the air will move from high pressure (outside the airbox) to low pressure (inside the airbox), so the pressure in the air box must be less than outside the airbox otherwise there will be no air movement at all. Hence the air box MUST fluctuate in pressure according the air demands of the engine and I cannot see how inside the airbox is the best place to place a barometric pressure sensor if that sensors only function is to measure the ambient atmospheric pressure. Now if the barometric sensor is to measure the actual air pressure at the intake trumpets then thats a different story. I'm just confused as to its main function especially in tandem with the temperature sensor as air pressure will fluctuate with temperature.

so if the airbox is not sealing well, it should not make any difference at all and will only add a risk of particles not being filtered out of the air flow, is this correct? The seal has nothing to do with maintaining vacuum pressure (-ve) in the airbox? it simply dictates that the air take the route of least resistance via the filter? So on a duratech where should the Baromentric sensor be located inside or outside the airbox? DD

In the side of my airbox is the air sensor. There are four wires to it what does it actually sense, air temperature and air pressure via two independent sensors hence the 4 wires? I have a misfire which the rolling road identified as an intermittent harmonic fault on the sensor. To resolve the problem the barometric sensor was disabled as temporary measure. I was told it should cause no issues unless I wish to drive up at altitude. Unless the the airbox is ram fed with air it must generally operate at negative pressure to create air flow across the filter into the engine. So why would a barometric sensor which I was told would only be required to sense low ambient air pressure be mounted in an airbox which will have fluctuating pressure depending on the speed of the engine. I believe my old K series had a barometric sensor mounted on the bulkhead. That makes sense if there is an air temperature sensor in the airbox. Are there any clever explanations? Why are air boxes sealed with a rubber gasket when free flowing air flows in through the filter. Is it simply to make sure that the air only goes through the route of least resistance i.e the filter? DD

Has anyone experienced problems at high revs and temperatures with the crank sensor and trigger wheel on their duratec? I'm just trying to fault find an ignition cut problem and I think the only sensor that will cut the ignition is the crank position sensor. DD

Its holding oil..... But I'll have to get a helicoil fitted this week. I'm leaving for Spa first thing on Friday. DD

So got it out by unscrewing and pulling it down at the same time... Screwed back in but still not right it tightens then loosens can't tighten it right up. I may try a wider copper washer as it may do the trick, otherwise the sump may have to be re-tapped. Any of you clever blokes had this before and did you have a clever solution? DD Edited by - Dunsfold Dave on 24 Mar 2012 17:18:44

How easy is it to cross thread when replacing the drain plug. Put mine back in just with fingers and it just goes round without tightening up and wont come out when turning anti clockwise. Is it that easy to cross thread? DD

AHHHH I hadnt looked behind that..... I'll give it a go. thanks for your help guys. DD

Sorry to be thick but on R500D should all the oil drain from the plug at the base of the dry sump tank? perhaps I'm just thick but I cannot see another drain plug on the engine sump. I've removed the dry sump plug and I've taken the filter off and that drained some oil but it doesnt appear to be the whole 7ltrs its meant to take. (Perhaps I was'nt topped up?) I'm thinking of removing the oil pressure sensor? to drain some more from the engine sump. I want to make sure its completely drained before I refill with new oil. DD

That was me. I'd just been to see John Reaks Benetton F1 car. DD

That'll be me then DD

Midday today going anti clockwise DD

Just checked and the cut out is bigger on the top, so the cap is the correct way up. Looking into the neck, the cone onto which the flap was fitted is not a smooth profile. One can see where the nozzles have been catching and not slipping right in. Perhaps the cones are just slightly different in profile and some simply allow the nozzle to slide down the inside easier. Tim on yours even though it works is it still a tight fit. I'm going to have a fiddle about and grind off the welds holding the cone if I have to. DD

I also nearly died in the heat of my R500 on the way down to the Ring on Saturday. Water temp reached 108deg. ON the way home I kept a wet towel on the side of the transmission tunnel and sometimes around my legs, which I dosed with cold water from time to time.......of course the two thunderstorms helped. I'm going to rig up one of those misty mate coolers they sell in the USA if I take it on any more long drives in that heat. DD