Dunsfold Dave

My r400 was displaying the systems of throttle pot problems i.e poor throttle response, delayed (sometimes none what so ever) power delivery at full throttle, could'nt pull away at junctions, loads more popping of unburnt fuel etc. Changed throttle pot, set it to 0.45kohm as minister web page and checked visually the throttle pots as described on the Minister web (I don't have a flow meter). Still the same problem. However it appears that my alternator is playing up with my stack displaying less that 12v. The battery is approximately 10months old. My question is, would a faulty alternator cause similar issues as a faulty throttle pot, if say it was getting insufficient spark for some reason? and has any one else experienced the same problem? DD

Steve It was good to meet up today if just a bit chilly. The existing wing seemed not to have the big head fasteners but was simply bonded, is this an option? DD

Just had my cycle wing come loose... damn pheasant. I have seached on here for how to fix and Sikaflex 292 etc type of adhesive seems to be whats required, however I have read about big bolts fixing what is this a belt and braces approach? there are no bolts holding it at present, do I just clean it up and rebond it, or is there some clever trickery you lot all know. DD

It was me L7YEL. I got a bit wet too....aero screen in the rain with no helmet is a bit painful Dunsfold Dave

I always try to go but missed it this year DD

I'll be at Cadwell with LoT DD

No, did'nt see you DD

Was it you who lost the cycle wing? DD L7YEL

Thanks for your help everyone. I do have some Carbide drill bits, which I used to drill through the bolt. I shall probably try taking the centre punch and hammer to it from the rear. However how about I leave it in and fabricate a new bracket which straddles the old bolt location. If i drill throught he chassis rail and bolt a stainless steel plate front and rear and weld a new bracket to the front plate. Do you think bolting a plate front and back of the chassis rail will maintain its strength? DD

I sheared off the bolt nearest the rear wheel arch the other day as I needed to change my tax disc which was bolted to it. So I brought some good drill bits to drill it out. I drilled through the thing then using one of those anti clockwise taps ('Easy outs') tried to remove it, only for the tap to break inside. So now I'm stuck with a siezed bolt with a broken tap inside!!!! I'm going to try and file down the end so as perhaps I can drill the tap out. I may then be able to drill through with a bigger bit to try and free the thing. There virtually no thread showing and my mole grips can't get a purchase. Does anyone have any clever ideas? and if I cannot get it out what is left to do? DD

I've had a close look and the cable is quite free. The throttle linkage is made up of two parts, the cable rotates directly a (probably got a name but i don't know it) part which pushes around a independantly connected part which is actually the throttle control. The part which is connected to the throttle cable returns immediately meaning that the cable is free moving but the part which is not connected sticks and returns very slowly. This keeps the throttle open. In the quiet of my garage last night without the engine running pushing the throttle body linkage around with my finger it felt grainy not smooth and one could hear sort of a grinding noise. Could there be a build up of carbon deposits or muck inside? DD

Had an intermittant problem for a while. Spring is ok, I will change the cable this weekend but in my opinion it does not appear to be that. I have been advised to put an additive a la Reddex in my fuel to clean up the bits I cant easily get to (sorry to be so technical). Has anyone else had this problem and has anyone used a additive to clean/help a sticking throttle? I live in surrey where is the best place to go to get the whole system looked at and possibly the ECU remapped it is running rich with loads of popping and banging and slightly lumpy tickover etc. DD

Said 'I've got onr of those' while passing in my tin top. DD

To pass sound level test I fitted a super trap on the exhaust. All the gasses vent sideways and burnt the paint off the bottom corner of my wing. I'd like to fit a heat shield rather than repaint. Has any one fitted one and are there proprietry ones manufactured? DD

I fitted my cat and put my R400 through its first MOT last week. I told the tester (an ex westfield owner) that I put the cat on just for the test, it failed the emmissions test but he gave me a certificate anyway saying that if all you do is take the cat off the car when you leave what actual use is it them enforcing the emmissions part of it. Not sure what difference the cat makes though. DD

Mike Its in front of the rad and yes it is a bit noisy. So perhaps I should get it reprogrammed to 80deg. I did check through the Stack programmables and the standard road stack that Caterham install limits what is user adjustable. What is the optimum running temp for the R400 road engine? DD

The relay supplied with the ECU kit was faulty I have installed a working one and the fan starts at ....69deg. Driving yesterday in heavy traffic in very hot weather my temp never got higher than 80deg. I was having overheating problems which is why I have installed the triple pass rad and larger fan, but before doing this I removed the stat just in case it was the problem, so I am running without a stat at present. DD

THanks Guys I'll give it a go DD

I have tried to bleed my system now I have a new rad but I am having difficulty getting coolant through the heater. The valve is open but I think it is because I cannot raise the front of the car enough. I am using the ramps on my Minno but the heater still seems higher than the fill point on the rad. My jack cannot raise it high enough. I maybe able to use my axle stands and then raise my jack on bricks to lift again, but is this my only option. Are their any tricks or tips anyone can give me? Also some advice on bleeding procedure would be useful. I have filled it cold and tumb tightened the rad fill nut? and then run it without the expansion tank cap. I have then put the cap on and removed the rad fill nut to see if coolant squirts out the top of the rad, is this correct? DD DD

ECU? Not sure I think it says BRE?? on the cover. Its the standard R400 road unit I presume.

I have just fitted a triple pass? rad and larger fan with ECU control. Does anyone know at what temp the fan is supposed to start. I didnt have time tonight to check every thing but I ran it up tp 76deg and fan had not started. At what temp can I expect it to kick in? DD

It was me..........L7YEL Dunsfold Dave

Thanks Steve I have spoken with them and they are sending another Dave

CC have sent me a oil pressure sender with one terminal when the one I am removing has two. I have read that there are two types for a K series. I have a R400 which has always read slightly low pressure but has gotten worse recently. Have I always had the wrong sender and is this why my pressure always read low? If the new sender is correct with one terminal to what do I connect the other cable? The small pipe into which the sender is fitted has another sender at the opposite end with a blade connector but no cable fitted is this correct? and do I connect the second cable to this? or have CC just sent the wrong sender Any ideas?? Ps I'm no mechanic it took me 15minutes to find where the sender is.

Was it a clunking or a knocking. I've had two drive shafts in the last year that developed faults. Caterham are at present try to get money back as they say it looks like a manufacturing fault. DD