Blue_SV

Humm May opt to drive the 4*4 Volvo rather than the C7 - may not make much difference to my time given more recent outings.... Safe journey to all - see you tomorrow/Saturday Jon

All Just thinking forward to next weekend and having not been to Wiscombe before, is there camping available at the event? If not, what are the accommodation options available? Cheers Jon

Chris Charlotte and I would like a place each. Many thanks for the organisation. Jon

For sale, I have 4 anthracite grey with polished rim minilite wheels. Wheels are generally in very good condition; one has a small mark in the outer rim and one has a scuff on a spoke (see arrows in photos). They are shod with Yokohama AO21Rs that have 3-5mm of tread so still good for road use or track/sprinting (note they are now 1C tyres). The tyre size is185/60/R13 80H. Photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vu5c9ejry13ak6b/AAAxnZuOgDFE0T3FPxVwUb5na?dl=0 I am looking for £320 ono for the lot please. Collection or delivery to areas near Corby/Market Harborough (LE168SR). I will also be going to the Llandow/Llys-y-Fran speed events and could take them along if interested. Cheers Jon

Hi I spoke to them last Friday and they said they were about to go on their annual holiday so it would be a fortnight before they could get a part to me. Jon

Hi I spoke to them last Friday and they said they were about to go on their annual holiday so it would be a fortnight before they could get a part to me. Jon

Chris Yes please Thanks for sorting this out again cheers Jon & Charlotte

Hi Could someone point me in the direction of a guide to removing the windscreen or offer some handy tips? I bought a single aeroscreen and want to fit for L7 Speed Events but then re-fit the main screen for road use. All advice gratefully received. Thanks Jon

Other than an email confirming my entry, I have not received anything further by email or snail-mail. Roger's message does not fill one with enthusiasm and the lack of passes makes me wonder about traveling at all.... I might email the organisers to check we are actually entered etc Jon

I disconnected the plug from the alternator. The plug is 'D-shaped' and the cream/brown lead enters the back of the plug adjacent to the flat end of the D. My test leads have 'pin probes' and I inserted a (red) probe into the front of plug pressing it against the metal connector. I then placed the other (black) probe onto the negative battery terminal. Could the wires to the alternator plug be switched? Could the other (brown) wire be the warning circuit but that would mean the digital field monitor had high current... I did not test that lead for fear of causing short/etc. It is rather confusing since the red warning light went off as I removed the connector from the alternator, but then relit as soon as the plug was reconnected. It cannot be passing 15A since both the warning light continued to work and the wires to the alternator plug were not hot! I was doing the testing using head-torch and workshop light so perhaps I will have another look in daylight. I could try the alternative warning light option but would much appreciate some advice on how - I presume it would be a temporary swap by disconnecting the original circuit and replacing with a short test circuit within the engine bay? I much appreciate everyone's help here Jon

Andrew (& others) I finally got a chance to check the current tonight and had a rather surprising result. Following your instructions, the current between the alternator plug pin (cream/brown) was 15.5 A! I had to double check but the fact that the test leads became instantly hot was the clue.. I had checked with the multimeter on low current readings but nothing registered until I went to the highest setting. Unless there is a fault with the meter I am no wondering whether there are some wider (and more serious) electrical issues. It all seems a little perplexing because the car actually runs well (as you saw) and the 2 Steves successfully remapped the ECU with the light flicking on after about 10 mins. Is the high current reading simply reflecting a straight loop from battery to alternator plug, and then back to battery via multimeter? Jon

Paul Thanks for the advice - I will give them a call and look around a little further. Jon

Thanks

Thanks all. A bit of an update - I had the car remapped by the two Steves this week (fantastic service) and so could see the voltage while the car was running for an extended period. For 10+minutes on the rolling road, the voltage was consistent at ~13.7. There was then a clear spike coinciding with the red light coming on but then the voltage remained constant after that for the rest of the remap (few hours) but at ~13.4. Occasionally the light would go out at the upper end of the power runs (>5-6k), stay off for a short while but then return whilst running in mid revs. Sadly, I suspect this all points to something beyond DIY and will need to find a local auto-electrics person. Anyone know such a person in the Market Harborough/Corby/Leicester/Peterborough area? Cheers Jon

Hi After helpful advice on a previous question about red warning light, I am down to tightening the alternator belt as a remedy. Could someone give a quick run through the sequence? I have 1800 K; there seems to be an adjusting bolt on the end of the bracket. I would be grateful for some advice before loosening mounting bolts/turning adjusters to find the whole thing goes slack and I am worse off than before I started.... Thanks Jon

Hi The red warning light in the tacho has started to come on when the engine it hot. It first started at the Anglesey Sprint when we had to spend ~1hr waiting in line with the engine idling but would clear if the engine was rev'd. Since then, it has started to come one when driving, particularly when traveling at modest speed (in town, stuck behind other cars at 40-50mph). It does clear when driving a little more enthusiastically (rev's pick up). However, even that is not working now.. I did check the voltage at the battery when idling & it was ~14.5V so alternator seems to be doing its stuff. Any thoughts? Cheers Jon

Happy New Year to all Having removed the throttle bodies for cleaning after my little 'off' at Curborough last year, the car is sitting on stands with plenty of opportunity for some TLC and fettling. A few folk mentioned it is worth replacing the metal bolts holding on the rear wings with nylon bolts (?) in the event of hitting something. I had a little look and it does not seem that straightforward without taking out the internal panel behind seats etc. Is there a simple way of doing the job?? Cheers Jon

Tom Thanks Jon

All I have just re-read my message and I think it is a little ambiguous. I am looking for some help/advice on taking the throttle bodies off the engine. I am then sending them to Titan for renovation. Any help/tips on the removal (and then re-fitting) would be much appreciated. Thanks Jon

Hi I need to remove the (Caterham) throttle bodies from my 1.8 K series for cleaning/renovation. Can anyone point me in the direction of a guide/message on dis-assembly, or offer any tips/advice? Cheers Jon

Hi After a little 'off roading' at the Curborough sprint in August, I filled the engine compartment with dust that got into the throttle bodies. At the time it coated the roller barrels and jammed them open but thanks to Mark D and a heap of brake cleaner, we got them working again. However, the recommendation was to get them stripped down over winter and cleaned out properly to avoid any problems next year. They are Caterham throttle bodies from circa 2003 ish that I gather we manufactured by Titan. I searched their website and then emailed a contact that was listed as someone who dealt with Caterham but I have not had any response. Does anyone have a contact at Titan or any other suggestions on someone who could strip down and clean my Throttle bodies? Cheers Jon

I entirely agree with Rob (and others) - for someone relatively new to the 7 world and now competition, how on earth does one make some sense of all these various statements having bought a 2003 car with numerous previous owners. Particularly for 7's where self build allows for all sorts of variations and options from new, I guess we need Caterham to publish what might potentially have been OE at the time the kit was supplied to be clear on what tyres are an option. I feel Simon's point is most relevant - if a tyre is on the list it is available to all, no question. It seems that such simple logic is not recognised by the MSA who themselves are publicly trying to get more people into motorsport...... I was hoping to put new tyres on my Christmas list but..... Jon

Paul and all, Great day too - what a venue! Next season looks good - well done to all who have put together the draft programme. Best regards to all for the close season & roll on Loton. Charlotte & Jon

Hi yep - we had to pass the time somehow..... jon

Paul We are planning to attend - I will phone Sam to book Charlotte & Jon