OAP

Anyone any idea how silencers work? or can let me know the shape of the curve showing sound wave absorption? I guess the first part of the packing does the most work, but does anyone on here have any data? Would it be more effective to have two 3 or 4" silencers rather than one 6 or 7" can, assuming the same length and collective bore area?

Hi Paul - yes it does screw into both, so you should be able to sort it out. I can't think that the threaded part could have come out as there is just no room, unless the mountings either side of the radiator were very loose. Let me know if you need mine and I'll bring it to the next meeting. Do you have any pictures of the Chimeneas?

Hi Paul - I've got a green arb that we could come to some arrangement over (I'm in need of a Chiminea and could do a px) although surely all you need is the threaded bolt that connects the end of the bar with the ball? I had a similar thing happen and found the threaded part had disappeared into the arb tube, disconnecting the ball and leaving it inside the cup. Edited by - OAP on 15 Feb 2010 10:42:08

Hello Steve, I used to run s/h Avon xply slicks on radial settings, and they gave noticeably better grip than the CR500's which were relegated to rainy days. They wore down more noticeably on the inside half of the tyre as you would expect, but I can't compare them with radial slicks as I've never driven on them. They did alter the characteristics of the car - I suppose the much stiffer side walls helped cause this. I now use Khumo medium compound (can't remember what they are called) which I prefer, and are cheap. I still have a set (Avon slicks) which you are welcome to have if you want them. The fronts are OKish, and the rears are one OKish and the other worn down to the base of the indicators at one side, OKish at the other side. They are not directional, so you could run them in the opposite direction. They are about three years old though, so they would give you an idea but might lack the seriousness a driver like you no doubt requires Edited by - OAP on 14 Feb 2010 14:50:57

Might be too far away from you but Harfield Motor Services in Milford-on-Sea mot mine every year. Proper Garage, with proper mechanics etc.

I fitted my K R400 with a cat by-pass and 7 inch Raceco silencer, when the CC set up measured 103/4db at 4500rpm static. With the Raceco fitted it measures 96 at Castle Combe, and 98 at Goodwood, all at 4500rpm static.

K Series silencers can be raised by fitting 15/20mm spacer bars between the front engine mounts and the chassis - it might mean having to trim the exhaust hole in the side panel. Of course, this also raises the sump, and it provides better drive train alignment.

Much the same as you describe, but I've used four screws - two at each end, two inches apart - so I can fasten it to the wheel using a shortened bungee through the spokes giving me hands free operation. It also allows the plumb line to settle. You should be able to measure caster using the same device by fixing a scale at 90 degrees to the existing scale, but I guess you would have to know where you were starting from.

I've made a camber gauge out of some left over bits of wood, and calibrated it on the basis that the tangent of the angle times height equals deviation from the vertical. I've made it so that the height (distance between angle and scale) is 573mm, so that 1cm on the scale equals one degree, and marked the scale +6/0/-6, zero being vertical. I've set it up against a known vertical surface, and used it with the car on the trailer (easy to make flat - fore and aft on the jockey wheel and across adjusted with a jack) but it looks wrong, and I think I am getting more camber than the gauge reads. Have I got my original calculations wrong?

I elongated the stanchion holes, and this moved the screen top back by about half an inch, which helps when fitting the hood. However, the doors need lifting a little when closing. You'd think Caterham would make the hoods to fit in winter, which is when they get used.

I have a low level wheel rack and fuel box on the front of my BJ trailer, and need to raise it 36" or so. Anyone any idea where I might buy, or have made, galvanised angle and corner pieces of sufficient substance?

GJT, I'll keep the LF's and dump the others, in the expectation of getting them to you via D21P or LtB.

D21P with the canoe? I hadn't realised he was so close - maybe he is in Croix?

Milford-on-Sea, just west of Lymington and about 90mins from Guildford - you are welcome to collect anytime tomorrow if not too far for you.

Hello Paul, Never bothered with Boy's Own, and I dumped the Eagle centre folds and copies of Hotspur years ago. I am keeping Motor Sport from the late 50's and 60's though - at least they are written in English.

LF 1996/2008, plus 70/80 classic car mags from 70's to date are due to go to the dump unless anyone on here wants them, and will collect.

The bolts and carrier are as you describe - the carrier has female ends to connect to the car - and was supplied by Caterham in 2002 with my (then new) R400 as an extra, as I was using the car at that time for touring, and I wanted something more than the foam aerosol. No mail yet. Dave B - you will only find the boss by lifting the tank. Loosen the boot floor, loosen the long angle rods at either side, lift the tank an inch or so and insert a piece of wood in the tank rail to hold it up, then feel along the foam strip to find the boss on either side. Caterham might be able to confirm if you give them the chassis no. Edited by - OAP on 20 Jan 2009 08:44:24

Angus, I do mean bolt. There is very little room between the tank and the rail - from memory there is a foam tape running along the rail which is in contact with the tank - and the bolt is intended to come through with the threaded end outside the car. The head of the bolt (supplied by Caterham) is reduced from the normal 4 or 5mm to about 2mm. and this fits OK. A normal bolt head would not give enough clearance - on my car at least. Send me your e-mail address and I'll send some pics to show what I've done - a bit sad but I don't know how to post the pics on here. Edited by - OAP on 19 Jan 2009 08:51:41

The turned boss is accessed from "inside" by lifting the tank an inch or so after loosening the boot floor. Caterham supply a turned down bolt so the head fits between the tank and the rail. I had some aluminium brackets made up that bolt onto the car through the boss, and I fit the spare wheel carrier on or off the bracket. The bracket is hidden by the number plate when the carrier is not used. The bracket also lifts the carrier so that my 13" wheels are centred for the wheel securing bolt.

I thought there were 50mm washers on the inside of the scuttle to support the stanchions? Not if the captive bracket is used of course

Boxed, unmarked, with instructions, PC interface cable, and cig lighter connection cable. £50.00 including postage.

Hi Paul - on my way back from Croix. Must have been 2.30 / 3.00ish? Don't remember the Sprinter though.

Ralph - yhm.

The internal diameter of the inlet pipe is 2" / 50.8mm, which I suspect is the same as the external diameter of your post collector pipe. There are the usual four slots for tightening. I guess it will fit OK. I should point out that there is no heat shield with this silencer, as I transfered it to the re-packable silencer which replaced the original unit, and it stayed in place when I sold the car in '01.

I've just been to dig it out of its bubble wrap, and it looks unmarked (although could do with a clean). It measures 37.5 inches from inlet to the bracket hole if this helps. No idea what it is worth - does £80 seem OK?