OAP

The outer edges of the front tyres wear out first, and I inflate to 18psi cold on a normal day. Most people seem to use this pressure so I hadn't thought it was too low, besides, there is much less wear on the inside edge. Camber is "standard" ie as the car came from Caterham when new - the only thing I have adjusted is the toe in, and that was to the recommended limits. The car handles without problems, just neutral so I don't want to change, it's just that I was told the edge wear would reduce if ran in the wrong direction. I can't see why this should happen, so I posted on here to see what others thought. I'll try it on Saturday anyway, and see what happens.

Thanks for these replies - I'll change them around next time, which will be next wekend at Goodwood. I'm fed up of ruining tyres, but leaving most of the inside tread on.

I am told that swapping the front wheels for track days, so that the tyres run against the indicated direction of rotation will preserve shoulder life. This sounds good news as the front shoulders disappear first, but has anyone else heard of this suggestion?

Petrolhead, are the Michelins radial? Is this why they suit your CR500 set better? Where do you get them?

Interested in these - please let me know if they are still available. Edited by - OAP on 17 Jul 2006 10:38:31

Yes, they are bog standard rivets. If the packing is made up of small individual fibres it will blow out more easily than the string type packing originally supplied with this silencer. This is because there is no protection between the centre pipe and the packing. There is no problem with this, it just means re-packing more frequently. On the other hand, Raceco silencers use a mesh sleeve and "blanket" type material wrapped around the pipe before the packing, which is a more efficient system, at least in terms of packing life. I don't know if James Whiting still supplies these silencers, but he may know where to get the original packing material, which is like fibre glass string, about 3 or 4mm dia., and yes just shove it in, in doughnuts- tamp down with a length of wood, not too tight, not too loose, and a bit tighter around the entry end as this takes more heat and pressure. Wrap a length of masking tape around the end plate edge before re-fitting so as to take up any gaps, re-fix in the original position (obviously) and insert all the rivets before using the rivet gun, otherwise you might have a problem lining up the last holes. Edited by - OAP on 10 Jul 2006 17:59:00 Edited by - OAP on 10 Jul 2006 18:07:49

I had difficulty changing from second to third at Croft last Sunday in 28 degree temperatures, again particularly late in the day and in an R400 - I must say I'm pleased to read this topic - I thought I was in for a new gearbox! Edited by - OAP on 9 Jul 2006 18:13:37

If this car is a VX HPC, it looks like an after market silencer supplied by James Whiting in '97/98. It will need re-packing at least once a year under normal use, perhaps more often. Just drill out the rivets and remove the end plate, then refill, but because there is no sleeve over the internal pipe to protect the filling you might benefit from using a fairly dense material.

pics sent this afternoon.

Four 13" silver minilites in good condition, with 3 year old Avon wets 160/530R13, about 3mm tread. £180 + carrage or collect from near Lyminton, Hampshire. 07970 760 462 or davidthompson@penhill.co.uk Edited by - OAP on 17 May 2006 15:52:24

Just got back from Tuesday Cadwell (fitted into work trip) so belated thanks to Geoff and team for a great day

It's OK, I've found out now - you remove the disk and screw the piston down.

I know this is the 7 forum, but can anyone tell me how to open the pistons on the rear calipers of an Elise? Any help much appreciated.

Presumably it doesn't matter if I go power to switch, switch to light, light to earth?

Hi Paul, I thought about the SPA gauge but decided that although this would give more accurate readings, it would still rely on me noticing a drop in pressure before catastrophe struck. With the pressure switch I will have an entirely independent means of being warned, and the light should be more noticeable - especially as I cannot see the dials without my specs. It remains to be seen if remotely mounting the sender improves its life - I am now on my third.

Johnty, Yes, both the switch and the light have two terminals. So ign (power) to light, light to switch, switch to earth? Thanks for your help.

Following a disturbing occasion watching a fluctuating gauge during the dying moments of yet another sender, I have bought a pressure switch and remote hose from Think Automotive. Question is, how do I wire it up? Presumably switch to earth, switch to light, light to earth, light to power? I don't like fiddling with the electrical bits, so confirmation from the experienced would be much appreciated.

Norman, do you use a special high temperature silicone, or just the everyday stuff available in the likes of Homebase?

I went from 13" CR500 to 15" CR500 with no clearance problems, but soon swapped back when I discovered the deterioration in ride and handling.

Try undoing the screen stanchion bolts a few turns and easing the screen back. Leave the side screens in place so the doors still fit, then fit the hood and tighten up the screen. Finally, adjust the hood with the straps. I slightly elongated the holes on mine to get a "cold" fit.

Now sold.

All these years and never spotted before! Chris Harris and I (plus very cold SWMBO's) returning from Compton Abbess Airfield breakfast - and a lovely day for it too.

Andy, Is this what your satnav says???? Can't be lunch - unless you can post from a bar down there!

Andy, Yes, and I reside in Sheila's Rest Home, and his name is Dangerous - never heard of Hullavington, where is it? Do you have a lot of spare time in SA?