Sootysevener
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Everything posted by Sootysevener
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Local welding supply business should stock it - BUT - be careful with it - its evil stuff even if its brilliant at reemoving heat staining David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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TADTS Pack in dry sacs and sarry a couple of microfibre cloths 😬 😬 😬 David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Agree re steering lock but also there is the joint adjacent to the clutch/ brake M/C David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Brian This sounds more than a bit fishy to me. Sounds like the sump has had a clout and created a leak - even with his older car experience the buyer may not have been sensitive to the ultra low sump level. Call me a cynic but i don't think you should accept any financial responsibility here at all David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Can we have a separate links page upon which members web links can be recorded - a separate issue from useful web sites where we might source spares, tools and upgrades so we can actively swap photos of Sevens and seven events David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Heaters are for wimps ❗ ❗ ❗. There is enough heat transfer from the engine bay to keep you warm even on a cold day - unless you are using aeroscreen/ brooklands - shed the heater and the consequent weight - stick to the Chapman principle David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Simple fix using the Chris W article. There is often - particularly in heavy traffic too much temperature variation if the thermo switch cuts in and out and i prefer to switch on earlier using manual over ride if the thermo switch has recently activated. Also need to watch heatsoak which can reverse back into the head if you've got headers wrapped - the tendency to warp metal should not be encouraged so a mix of manual and auto contol should catch normal overheating early. Myles - did you cut the article from the pdf version of LF about which all seems to have gone quiet recently 😬 *wink* David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Did mine about 3 years ago with Caterham kit - no chassis mods just a couple of skin holes to cut which are ezpz. Suggest you speak to John at Millwood whose service is first class. Took me about 3 hours a side with the hardest bit getting the new taper joints on the TR ends done up. Well worth the effort as each piece of metal is then dloing only one job rather than the top link acting with the ARB to provide triangulation - the ARB is just providing roll resistance. Well worth the effort 😬 David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Agree with the recommendation from K80Rum but suggest you mask off the whole of the dash so you can then decide how you want switches configured for ease of use. This will give you the option to draw out a variety of options before committing yourself to drilling. A bit of care needed if you want the switches in a bank as the back sections of the switches are different sizes - see webshots below. Make sure that if your cutting CF use a sharp hole cutter or new drill and drill slowlleeeeee David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here Edited by - Sootysevener on 6 May 2007 21:34:10
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Dave I got a home for them if you can blatmail me details of numbers and approx sizes - YHM David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Driving up from portsmouth last week my temp guage was rock solid at normal operating temperature 180 deg F but the LED which trips when either the manual fan overide or the temperature driven switch was glowing - though not as brightly as when the fan is operational. I cannot figure this out as the temp guage is new and the lighting of the LED only operates dimly at sustained high speed, not at low speed urban driving. I suspect that the temperature sender is faulty but how do I test it. Any ideas or suggestions welcomed 🤔 🤔 🤔 *confused* David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Just got delivery of Maxiflow 1A head from Steve at Vulcan - less than 24 hours from pick up to delivery and I'm chuffed 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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George Polley *thumbup* David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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I mounted mine using 3mm SS bolts into rivnuts set in the tube frames and then put velcro in between to stop the vibration. Result is firm fix and no vibration David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Easi job and whilst the rear cover is a tight fit its certainly still perfectly useable. Some piccies on webshots - see link below David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Jill puts the velcros on as standard now David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Generally the chrome is cr&p quality and the torque applied bites into to angles unless you use a full hex socket. This minute weakening on the corners allows water penetration and eventually it flakes off 🙆🏻 I'd like to get hold of some aircraft grade stainless or maybe titanium when mine need replacing again next year - it seems the chrome ones are only good for about 3 years if you regularly remove the wheels David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Jill & Nick *thumbup* Nothing but praise. The half hood with easi in is much better and Jill confirms its possible to have easi in both sides for the benefit of SWMBO David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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I replace my hazrd switch twice but it still kept causing the problem. Thats when i decided that tractor switches are useless and gave me the excuse to revamp the dash with toggle switches that work 😬 David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Michael IIRC the problem is that the stub end with the nut on only has a small soldered connection to the mechanichal arm and this is the weakest spot in the construction - if it separates its bust. replacement sender from merlin Motorsport about GBP42 inc theft. You mightr try www.eguages.com from Detroit who are VDO dealers. I got great service from them when I switched to white dials - paid about the same in USD as I would have in GBP so almost half price *thumbup* David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Michael There is no problem with electricity and ptrol - its when you get sparks and a petrol /air mix that the fireworks start. Remember Spark erosion is undertaken in paraffin - but no air Undoing the nut can cause the stem to break off the sender unit which is mounted in what looks like a small ceramic insulator. I Kn&ckerd mine when I stripped out the tank but i was replacing the sender when replacing guages anyway David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Lardy YHM David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Tim If you really cannot seaparate them then new wishbones may have to be considered. You should however really not need to. Some serious heat on the ball joint and hefty clouting with a big persuader should do the trick. I would be wary of copperslipping the reassembly though as the tapered joint is supposed to be a tight friction fit and with copper slip you'll never get the nut to torque up David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Dave Dimensions are across the OD od the widest part of the rim. My D wheel is 280 across the rounded element but only 260 across the flat section David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here
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Simon I fitted a Momo 280 D shaped wheel a little over a year ago to replace a 300 mm Motolita. Its marginally harder on the wrists at low speed but otherwise has a great feel. The Alcantara brushes up like suede and I tend to use leather faced winter golf gloves to drive in the winter - very tactile feel The D shape is a bit easier in terms of legroom as I'm over 6 ft and on the lardy side but by far the best option is to go removable wheel as this makes a big difference to getting in and out David 1989 1700XF SS clams with carbon webshots here