David Brown

#8, yes could fit a large hole and fit a rubber bung but when I got the existing one refurbished I got greased for life uj's. Haven't yet got round to refitting the plate and will probably leave it for a winter job.

Yes, easy to do but if you don't know the grease nipples are there as you can't see them and later cars have greased for life joints then you don't know that you're meant to drill them out every year.

That would have been easy, and saved a failed joint on my CSR, if CC hadn't covered the propshaft with a plate held in by 34 pop rivets.

Someone put a penny washer on their key ring to ease removal.

Of more importance is being able to occasionally remove the nosecone to check on hoses and radiator.

Don't know why that repeated, only posted once! Avoid naked flames but that is even more relevant if you have petrol about.

Overthinking! Anything you use in building or maintenance will not spontaneously combust. Note that you're in Kilmarnock, I'm only 20 minutes away if you need any help or chat.

Overthinking! Anything you use in building or maintenance will not spontaneously combust. Note that you're in Kilmarnock, I'm only 20 minutes away if you need any help or chat.

O problem but took old ones as spares in case.

I said that it was a Rover unit in #16.

Sorry for the late reply but my pump is completely different with a solid pipe running down to the side of the tank with a difficult to access quick release.

Having just replaced the fuel pump (in the top of the tank) on my CSR Sv, I struggled with this. Never managed to get the floor out but found that by tilting the floor up I could get the screws out and pump removed and replaced. Was complicated by two of the screws just spinning as rivnuts int the tank were turning. With some trepidation and slow spe speed I managed to drill them out and fit two new rivnuts. Hope you don't have this additional frustration. At great expense, I fitted a new pump as didn't want to have to repeat the job. Just check the pump flow rates as ones that look the same have outputs suited to Berlingo vans rather than Rover SVR.

Glad it's worked out well for you.

Sorry, but really think you should be using one of the many companies who are experienced in flat flooring sevens who know what settings to use after you tell them road or track. Drifters and sevens are two completely different things.

110mm under the sump sounds rather more than most have although would certainly give additional ground clearance. Are track rod arms horizontal with that setting as can result in bump steer if not?

Has he set up many sevens before?

My CSR came with a Quaife which some may criticise but I find it excellent for road use. Believe they can't stand up to hopping over kerbs particularly if racing but not relevant to my use.

The advantage of SM25's is that it completely fills the space under the roll bar. The SBFS one only fills the gap between the headrests.

Anthonym, I'm sorry, I should have said it was a CSR260, which was mentioned on my earlier posting. Think I've finally got it resolved after drilling the heads off the two screws in the spinning rivnuts I got the pump out. Have subsequently found out that it is only obsolete with Caterham but was fitted to the MG ZS amongst a number of other vehicles. The part number if anyone else is looking for one is WFX100631 which is available from a number of different manufacturers but was concerned that one for a Berlingo may not have the correct flow rate. Decided to buy from Rimmer who, although more expensive, are at least recognised Rover spares suppliers. Despite having hard wired it from the battery twice, with no response, I connected it up again when it was out and it ran! I had to shake it to get rid of the fuel from the swirl pot which may have freed off a sticky pump. In any case I don't want to get stuck again in the middle of nowhere so fitted the new pump and the car is now running fine. Haven't resolved the issue of the two spinning rivnuts which have still got the remnants of the screws in them despite attacking them with screw extractors with mole grips holding them inside the tank. Reluctant to do any more drilling on the fuel tank so have used Hylomar blue to seal them. If I have to I'll drill out the existing rivnuts and fit two new ones.

Haven't tried it but wonder if a hot gun would fix the stone chips. #7 already have the film on my rear wings.

Anyone found a way of getting rid of stone chips on the film on the rear wings?

Search on here how to make your own. More efficient and obviously a lot cheaper.

Thanks David, will get my glamorous assistant to crank the engine, before she goes out to golf, while I check the voltage.

Breakdown man shoved his multimeter into the connector with the ignition on and immobiliser disabled. Haven't yet had a chance to check the relay in the MFRU. Surely pump should run if hard wired from the battery, although accept that it is some coincidence that it fails and I can't detect voltage at the plug.

Following on my post on Sunday when I broke down with pump not running. Recovery chap confirmed power to the pump so recovered home. Firstly wiring into the pump doesn't correspond to the wiring diagram. Find it agrees up to the connector under the back, where the 4 wires going in change colour to 5 wires out. Hard wire the from the battery to the pump to the feed from the inertia switch and the earth but the pump doesn't run. Try to remove the pump but two of the screws just turning, presumably nurserts underneath are spinning. Contact Chris at Redline to see if he has one but, despite supplying a member here in 2019, it's now obsolete. (He's trying to find a replacement). Also, despite what mechanic says, I can't get any voltage on the pump feed. Inertia switch has continuity and immobiliser is disengaged. Head bursting!