David Brown

Senility setting in, found answers to above replying to the similar problem I had in 2019 which I don't think I resolved but it kept working!

Anyone recognise this fuel pump, do the connectors just prise up to detach? Not like others I've seen on the site. Also wiring doesn't correspond with the CSR wiring diagram but assume the two wires, red & white are for the fuel sender and the three are for the pump with purple being the inertia switch.

Hi Blue, found that thread when researching pump problems and, like you, didn't think there was one as not shown on the wiring diagram. Anyway, don't think it can be that as have power to the connector at the side of the tank. Research showed some people had a problem with the earth pin on the multi pin connector on top of the pump having a bad connection. Childminding today so haven't had a chance to take the cover off the pump but will investigate after golf tomorrow. If connector looks ok will try hard wiring the pump to see if it works - was researching replacements on CC parts site and unclear which model I have but astounded that one was £500! Grateful for all the helpful advice on here but am sure that if I've power to the pump it can't be ecu, relay, immobiliser, etc but either pump connection or faulty pump.

Not yet tried direct feed but live to the pump. Not sure the pump has a relay. Pump never been replaced.

David, why do you say that? Engine turns over fine, immobiliser is off, power to pump but pump not running? Eventually got home at 7:15 which wasn't bad considering I was in the middle of nowhere. Four of us were enjoying a run from Biggar to New Galloway, via Leadhills and Moniaive.

Checked most of these while waiting for breakdown ( must remember to add multimeter to tool kit). Awaiting recovery now as power to fuel pump but it's not running so assume pump is duff. Thanks for all your suggestions.

Out for run and engine cut out. Can't hear the fuel pump, immobiliser was working. Checked visually the fuses and wagggled the relays and all seem fine but immobiliser no longer cancelling. Waiting for break down. Any suggestions? CSR 260.

Don't know about Thundersports but the SBFS one rolls into a cover attached to the roll bar with the back straps remaining attached.

Well done Mark.

Interested if you find it as my CSR 50th Anniversary is also metallic black. Speaking to TSK who did the painting is probably the answer but I've never tried.

Sorry, it's taken me a while to get round to checking but confirmed my oil filler cap just kisses the inside of the bonnet so no chance of raising my engine. No idea if the 2.3 is slightly taller than yours but didn't think it was.

Tom, CSR has different aspect front and rear. 50 & 40 15" ZZS so don't think that's a solution.

Adjusting the suspension is easy to do and take for a drive. Raising the height of the engine is also deviating from the standard settings with unknown result after a lot of work. I'm pretty sure you couldn't notice the handling difference if you raise the car 6mm all round. Tempting fate but I've never bottomed the sump (which has 80mm clearance unladen) but I do catch the chassis hoop that sits under the bellhousing on early models when crossing some speed humps.

Have you not got adjustable platforms? Would it not be easier to raise the car 6mm all round?

My CSR, I started with getting the sump clearance right as it is primarily a road car by the "rolling a coke can underneath" method. This also results in the lower wishbones and steering track rods being horizontal. My rear sits at 180mm where you are measuring it to give the correct rake. Can't help you with the platforms running out of stroke as I had no problems. Normal dampers usually have several circlip grooves that mean you can adjust the platforms. My car is a Superlight and came fitted with different dampers and I don't know whether it has different grooves or if yours are the same.

Stu, would suggest that trying to sell electric Corsas, Minis, etc at approaching 30k in any volume will be a problem also for the big manufacturers unless they can get very competitive leasing/pcp deals.

In case anyone is wondering how to do this and finds it in the archives, I paid rather more attention when doing it for a second time. The technique is to push the front end up and start lowering the back on a trolley jack. When you have access pull out the breather. Then as you lower the back end, start rotating the diff to 90 deg from the original orientation, almost like unscrewing it from the chassis, and drop down vertically with the drive shaft outputs pointing front and rear. The installation is the reverse with it balanced vertically on the trolley jack and you can rotate it when the shaft outlets clear the chassis members. Hope that helps.

#13 Stewart, think that looks an easier solution than mine. Wondering if two layers of flyscreen would reduce the backdraft/spray even more. I also fitted some right angled plastic edging to the bottom to stop the run off water running down the carpeted rear bulkhead and soaking the floor area behind the seats.

Having wear on my previous set in the centre of both front and rear of my CSR on my ZZS at the higher pressures, I have reduced them to 18psi cold.

SBFS one is quite good but quite a lot of wind comes through the space between the headrest and the door. Made my own with PVC conduit and mesh flyscreen, cable tied to roll bar. Far cheaper and works well and helps stop rain mist when using half hood.

Mine is back out again - it's easier having done it before. Great service from Redline with new seal delivered on Saturday having ordered at lunchtime on Friday.

I don't recall a problem getting it to fit the gearbox splines.

Mark, and it's to come back out as appears to have a leak in the front seal!

It was tight getting it out (and back in). Think it helped removing the breather plpe fitting to gain an extra few mm.

Mark, had another look at our earlier postings to remind myself what I did. I was reminded that the bolt was seized on the bushes and would rotate 45deg and spring back. Here is what I did: "Several socket extensions allowed me to get out from under the wheel arch and get a decent lever on the long bolt and get it turning. This eventually, with Plusgas and thumping, allowed me to get the bolt out, drop the diff and release the propshaft" Hope you have success, David