abbot

I know there are lots of threads on Bleeding brakes but I do not see the answer to my question. I have a X Flow 1998 what order do you bleed the brakes in or does it not matter. Is it si;ply start nearest the Master cylinder and work away? Thanks Edited by - Abbot on 8 Jul 2011 21:38:50 Edited by - Abbot on 9 Jul 2011 14:55:27

RS2000 you have won the prize for making me feel really stupid. Back to the bedside table to read it again. Thanks

I think I am going daft. I am sure I recently read a posting giving instructions on how to set up headlights. Along the lines of wall 25ft away etc etc. Can anyone point me at it. I tried various searches but nothing. Chris

Sorry for the cheeky non 7 question. Just doing a compression test tonight on latest project , 20 year old 998cc mini. Strange thing was when engine was turning over nicely I removed the rocker cover cap. The engine immediately changed revs and died. What does that tell me aboutthe engine if anything. Compression test seemed pretty good at 13 across 3 and 14 on number 2 which seems in spec. Chris

It was bank hol today in France so we went to Caen for the day. We saw loads of 7s pouring out of the end of the A28 near Rouen I guess heading for Calais. One 7 worth a particular mention was fitted with a big roof box. It looked weird, SWMBO was very impressed. Chris Edited by - Abbot on 13 Jun 2011 22:14:07

I guess it is not usually a problem as most of the people upgrading to a Zetec are coming from an X-Flow. I have a concern as I may need to upgrade to something that does pass later emission spec. Sorry for al of the / / / in the last post I did it from a PC with a mac keyboard and it didnt work well

So forgive me for being dim but a newer chasis will need full cat and emmisions etc *Chris

If I instal a brand new engine into a '92 chassis, what requirements are there in terms of emmissions etc... would I need to fit a CAT or is it the chassis/1st registration date that is counted ? Did you get an answer to this question? Chris

Elie Info recieved, thanks very much. Redline have confirmed they can pop my hubs at the end of this week.

Elie YHM thanks

I would still be intersted to see a section throught the shaft/bearing/housing assembly. Does anyone havea haynes manual that can be scanned and mailed? Please

Thanks James Half shaft now removed. I guess I know the answer to this next question, is it best to replace bearings on both sides? Or is one side more susceptible than another? The bummer is that I have jacked the car i place where it will be difficult to pull the other side.

Here are pics of diff http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/83/183/9/81/65/2226981650104558069RPfghJ_th.jpg http://thumb9.webshots.net/t/87/87/2/75/15/2550275150104558069kZDBcZ_th.jpg Is there anything I can do to make the car safe to drive. Chris

I was doing a bit of maintenance this morning, adjusting the hand brake, when I noticed that the drivers side rear axle has a lot of float on it. About 5mm. I did a quick search on the subject but am still a bit confused so I have some questions. How do Identify the axle, the car ia a 99 1700SS X flow with the old chassis ie the single top link at the front. I assume it is not safe to drive in this condition? What is the worst case the wheel and shaft coming off? Does any one know the part numbers of bearings, seals, shims that I will need to repair it? It looks like the job cannot be done without a press of some sort, that could be difficult to find here in France. Anyone one got a section drawing through the bearing so I can get it clear in my head what I am doing. Thanks for any help Chris

if you drive live axle you have to watch out for terminal clunks that signal the A frame centre bushes having gone. Just replaced mine this evening, it now takes longer to put the tools away and wash than the job itself. Chris

I thought I was the only Cat in the village and now I have seen 2 here in as many weeks Chris

Spotted in the High street at lunch time then you followed me from Chatou.

Getting old and colour blind now. So I recon that was you. It was certainly a nice evening for a blast. Chris

Green Cat R400RAV heading down the A16 with red cap. I tooted as I passed you in my French tintop.

Inspection lamp close by seemed to warm things up nicely. I used a Maplin Rare Earth magnet just wanted to make sure it stayed put with the loads at high speed. 1700ss BRG/Yellow Stripe the only way to cruise

Thanks, Yes it is the magnet for the sensor but it is stuck on the back of the hub. I thing I will have to just warm up the assembly with a lamp. 1700ss BRG/Yellow Stripe the only way to cruise

I know it says on the packet 6 hours at room temp or 4 hours at 60 deg I have just glued my bike computer magnet to the back of one of the stud bolts but it is very cold in my garage. Will the Araldite eventually cure even if the temp does not get very high. It is a garage under the house so it is not freezing but it is not room temp either. Thanks for any comments Chris 1700ss BRG/Yellow Stripe the only way to cruise

Mintex? 1285

That is the front spilt line for the door hinge. It is obviously the easy access version before the SV 😬 Chris

I changed my Old Michelins after an excusion on a dry road that had seen a shower. I took Yoko A021 from George Pooley - I got a mate to buy them and then picked them up when I was over there on business. The difference in wet conditions was enormous. The cost in france was astronomic for any thing. In fact i have just reshod the copmpany tin top for nearl 800 euros. Also be aware if you buy them from UK - it took me ages to find a friendly garage that would fit them - I had a lot of Jobs Wrth discussions.