abbot
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Everything posted by abbot
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Hi, all ancilliaries are now disconnected or un plugged. anyone got a difinitive answer on if it is possible to get engine out without the gearbox on a 4 speed crossflow?
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So I need to be able to change the clutch. What is the minimum to be able to get at and replace the clutch A quick look suggests the engine and gearbox have to come out together. is that right or is there enough room to split the block and leave the box in place?
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Sorry forgot the basics, 98 x flow. i did a visual inspection but could not really see anything except there is no rubber boot so i guess that could contribute to crap ingress and knackering something. what a bummer, i invested in an engine hoist to do up my mini and a couple of weeks ago i lent it to a mate who has now gone on hols for 4 weeks. Viva la France.
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Thanks for teh feedback, I hadn't noticed while out driving but then I had earplugs in. When I pulled up to stop and then select reverse to back into a parking slot I then the noise. It wasnt the usual noise when I am a bit quick in selecting reverse but something far harsher. I will have a poke around tonight and try to establish a bi more info
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Hi all, Went for a blat yesterday and when I returned home I slipped into reverse to park the car and there was a bad noise when i depressed the clutch; it sounded like a mechanical sraping noise. so any advise on the following would help, any suggestions on specific tests or procedures to assess further what the problem is Is there any visual checks that can be done with engine in place if I need to change the clutch is that a straight forward engine out, new clutch, drop back in or is it a bit more tricky than that?Thanks
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I think you are right. As I recall the study i did was also looking at the effect of various plating and finishing effects on tractor wheel bolts. Mini engine is going back into my classic Mini project
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I am just starting my 998 Mini engine rebuild after rebore, crank grind, etc. I had a quick look at some engine build videos this morning to back up what I am reading in the Haynes manual. I was very surprised to see the the guy doing the build applying thread lube to big end and main cap bolts. Going back some 40 years, when I was given a task as an apprentice at Massey Ferguson, I did some studies on effects of finishes and lubrication on torque and clamping forces. I do not remember the details but there was a clear memory that you should not go applying lube to bolts. Is it simply a question of like everything else today that life and opinions move on and change or was he talking bo77cks
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New switch arrived and fitted. Job's a good un.
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Yes i am swapping the terminals at the switch and can therefore make the indicators work on the left or the right
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If the LH side works when i switch the terminals then it must be the switch or am i missing something
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top dollar Switched terminals and the problem switched sides
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Thanks Jonathan i will have a go
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RH side works ok LH side NG bulbs seem ok so I am guessinng the pqroblem lies between the switch and the LH side harness Any pointers on prqoblem solving logic would be rqeally helpful thanks
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Thanks Richard, That is a bit of theory that is way above my payscale.
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Dikko, did you mean New Oil Pump? Not sure how Fuel pump aids cooling
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Thanks for your feedback Roger. yes it is BAR i will continue to run it and keep a close eye on her. If i was to set about doing a refresh, can the rings be changed by dropping the sump? Or is it engine out job
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As suggested I have done a compression test. engine hot throttle wide open No1 13 No2 12 No3 11.5 No4 12 So what do we make of that?
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what sort of pressure value would be the borderline level?
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My beast is a standard 1700ss which as far as I know has not had any refresh work. Just the annual oil change done by me. She has done 35k Miles. The car is not so old so as was describred there is a vent from the RH rear of the block that feeds to a catch tank with a second pipe comimg out of that and leading to under the car. This afternoon I emptied the tank, removed the pipes and ensured they were clear. After putting it all back together the immediate problem of smoke coming out of the bonnet vents seems to have abaited. So now the big question is, what do I need to do to refresh the engine t ensure that she does not give up on me on day. If it is just a head off, decoke, and new rings is that acievable by dropping the sump or is it an engine out job?
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There is a vent pipe and catch tank. Did not think about checking that
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Hi all, just been out for a blat and when making my way back I got caught up in slow traffic and noticed that there was smoke coming out of the bonnet vents. On closer inspection it seemes to be coming out of the rocker cover cap. When I removed the cap it seemed clean but there was quite a bit of smoke coming out of rocker cover. Any ideas what could be the root cause?
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A) reasonably lucky but could turn to sh1t if I dig too deep B) the value is related to the cost of a Frenchman coming to my house if I can find one. I would take a good bet that buying a welder, getting all the kit and spending hours practicing would still be by far the cheaper option
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I last did welding and soldering during my apprenticeship some 35 years ago. I still have the samples I made and I am under no illusion that I would be able to pick it up quickly. The most difficult thing to master was the flick of the head to drop the mask just as you make contact so I guess an automatic lens would solve that.
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Thanks for the link (mailbox full message when I tried to reply) http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002HMRTV2 I always thought that MIG was Metal Inert Gas. So looks a bit strange that thereis no gas.
