abbot

This is a good source of allsorts of stuff Car Bibles

😬Thanks for the feedback team. I am much happier now with a bit of knowledge. I thought I had been sold a pup. Dont think I will bother with the upgrade at the moment. 😶‍🌫️ 😶‍🌫️ 😶‍🌫️ Chris

Thanks for the feedback. I am still wondering why there should be an older car with newer suspension. Assuming they are both live axle cars.

I went to a car meet last weekend and had a good look around at all the cars assembled. This is not such a usual event in France so it was good chance to compare details. My car is a 1999 Xflow, one thing I noticed was that my car has a front suspension that uses the ARB as part of the top link. I noticed that the more modern cars have a full top wishbone and the ARB is linked to it but is not part of the upper wishbone control other than roll bar function. What had me thinking was then looking at a car that was supposedly older than mine but with the newer type of suspension. What is the history behind the change and why. The old style appears to follow the Chapman philosophy of make every thing do 2 jobs ie ARB and top link. Do I need to worry about converting?? Thanks for any comments Chris 😬

Installed a Sigma BC1606 and it is working great. As suggested did not bother to change the magnet. It also has a backlight which is close enough for me to be able to tap a button and see the speed in the dark. Well happy

Anyone know where to get a replacement long bolt and rear screw for the K&N Filter. Mine just rotates when you do up the nut. I have tried to nip it up but it wont budge. Edited by - Abbot on 23 May 2008 20:50:49

Checked the water level this morning before doing 250k home. Here is a tip. If you are driving in damp, not wet, conditions and it rather strangely seems to be getting wet on the left side of the screen and not the right. Stop and check your water filler cap is on tight. I noticed the water temp start to rise so pulled over in a cloud of steam. Sure enough the cap was loose and I was loosing water through the bonnet grill and onto the screen. After cooling down I topped up and continued. No harm done but feeling a bit stoopid. *redface*

2 blokes in a Silver 7 on the A16 France at around 1ish in the Somme area heading to Calais

😳Can anyone confirm the bolt size I need for the exhaust manifold on my Crossflow. I was doing a bit of routine maintenance and noticed I am a bolt missing. It appears to be a cap head screw (hex socket) Is it metric or more likely imperial and what length. I do not really want to remove one of the others as it might disturb things. Thanks very much Chris

I fitted one as my X-flow has a MPH Speedo and a bike comp set to KPH is better than looking at my speed cross reference chart. I live in France. Chris

I got a replacement from Redline Components. They said that they were getting a lot of orders from people who could not get one from CC

I have just had a bit of a bizzare day. (Sat 26th Apr) You know what they say about London buses coming in threes. Well where I live west of Paris I know there are some 7s in the region as we usually meet on sunday mornings at NLV about 40mins from where I live. This morning I had been out in my car and on return left it in front of the house while I mowed the lawn. A guy came past on a big bike and stopped to inspect the car. He is a plumber who is working up the road. He lives in the next town, 5mins away, and has a 7 that is under repair at the garage. We had a good chat and agreed that there weren't many 7 owners in the vicinity. Later that evening I was pulling out of the local garage after having washed my car. As I did I pulled out in front of a red 7. We waved and pulled over to chat, I thought it was a bit strange that he pulled over in a small dead end lane leading to where a mate of mine lives. His car is a 1963 S2 7 a super looking motor in red. We chatted and then realized he is my mates next door neighbor. The car had been hidden away in his garage and this was his first outing for a couple of years. So as we chatted away, 7s and golf are the only things that my French is not bad at, blow me if another 7 drives right past us and up the road. We never caught his eye as we were parked just off the main road. It was the same colour as mine BRG/yellow stripe on English plates. Three in one day in my town, what a day.

That sounds good. Does anyone know if I will have to fit the specific magnet and sensor?

Thanks John That sounds most likely as when the previous Alternator blew I changed it from a Valeo to a QH. I did have a problem with the metal fan being too big, and clashing with the mount strap. Thanks

Hi I posted this question in someone else's topic. (apologies unclefester) Posted - 22 April 2008 21:26 I have just got my X flow running again after problems with alternater battery and igniter.. She is now running well and despite the light rain and traffic I took it into Paris. I took one of the lads in the office out for a short burn at lunchtime and noticed the RED light stayed on after she was running and eventually went out. Same thing happened when I came home this evening. Any comments. ================================================================== Alextangent responded: Posted - 22 April 2008 21:56 1. Slipping alternator belt; could be more pronounced in the wet. Should be just tight enough to the point where you can move it by about 1 cm with a good press from your thumbthumbs up 2. Alternator connections; are they all sound? Again, damp can make it worse 3. Idle so low that the alternator isn't spinning fast enough 4. The battery is (or has been) pretty well discharged and the light only comes on at idle 5. Alternator on its way out I'd guess (1) if you've had the belt off and it was working before. Alex McDonald PASSED THE MOT!!! ========================================================== The belt seems ok for tension. I have noticed that once the engine is running a quick blip of high revs puts the light out . Does that signify anything Thanks

Hi I have fitted a bike computer to my 7. I took the very cheap option and fitted an unwanted child's birthday present. I am using to read kph so it is not so difficult to go over 100kph. When it does go over it shows 102 then it it goes spare and can read any thing randomly. Can anyone confirm if the recommended Sigma bike comps are reliable reading kph above 100. Also if I invest in one are all the sensors and magnets basically the same thing and interchangeable or do I need to fit the correct magnet and sensor. Thanks for any comments.

*confused*Hmmm I have just got my X flow running again after problems with alternater battery and igniter.. She is now running well and despite the light rain and traffic I took it into Paris. I took one of the lads in the office out for a short burn at lunchtime and noticed the RED light stayed on after she was running and eventually went out. Same thing happened when I came home this evening. Any comments.

*thumbup* What a star. That has got to be the easiest bit of problem solving so far. Big connector on the LH side it was. Obviously knocked it while changing the alternater Thanks very much M25 😶‍🌫️ 😶‍🌫️ 😶‍🌫️

Recently I have had a problem with the alternator boiling the battery and blowing my igniter. I now have the car going again with new bits, but the front LH main light and side repeaters do not work. I was looking at the circuit diagram but it does not appear to be split LH and RH so any bright sparks got any advise. Is there a common earth that could have caused the front left side to go down. Any comments welcome. Chris Edited by - Abbot on 20 Apr 2008 21:03:28

😬 😬 😬Wahooo Its going again 😬 😬 😬 The new igniter arrived from Aldon this morning and just finished fitting it with the new battery and alternator. Not exactly a start first time but it is now going again. Only minor problem now is that the new alternator is a QH replacing the old Valeo one. the top stay interferes with the metal cooler fan. It was a bit exciting when she first kicked into life as there were showers of sparks. Anyway 15 mins with the Dremel should sort it. Thanks for all the advise. Chris 😶‍🌫️ 😶‍🌫️ 😶‍🌫️ Edited by - Abbot on 19 Apr 2008 15:09:23

Hi John, I had a look at the Petronix site. It does not seem to answer my simple question. My igniter appears to be more simple than the petronix ones as there is no additional box of tricks that the wiring goes through. Chris

Please can anyone confirm my next step of problem solving. This morning I have examined the power to and from the igniter. I am not sure if that is the correct word for it, it is the bit that sits where you would normally (in the old days) find the points. There appear to be only two wires connected to the igniter. 1 White 1 black and white Here is my theory, I put a test bulb across the return wire, B&W the light is on> With the ignition on, I turn the engine until the Dissy cam/sensor is infront of the sensor. This should be the position that breaks the current to the coil and intiates the spark. Well the light stays on all the time, no matter where the cam is positioned. Is that a good indication the sensor is shot. I need to confir;m this analysis as 70 quid and another week of waiting for parts to arrive from the UK is geting too much to take. Thanks

Hi Graham The car is not fitted with an isolator key. Do you have any ideas on what I connect to what to do a continuity check on the wires to the alternator. Would a broken wire to the alternator stop the engine from starting or would it simply not charge the battery? Chris Edited by - Abbot on 12 Apr 2008 16:35:18

Hi Alex Just done the tests you suggest. 1 There is power to the white lead at the back of the ignition barrel. OK 2 There is power at the +ve terminal of the coil OK 3 Put a HT lead and plug directly on the coil and turned it over - no spark 4 I have replaced the coil with a another (thanks again Dave) still no start John The distributor is a lucas and the igniter looks like the standard caterham one as shown in the online shop here Is there a simple check I can do to check the igniter is behaving itself, 70 quid seems a lot to shell out if it is not that. Where do I find the immobiliser? I dont see it on the circuit diagram I have and do not see any obvious box under the dash. Thanks Chris Edited by - Abbot on 12 Apr 2008 13:38:34

☹️ Can anybody help please?