Chris Norman

Oily YHM

Hi Stu, Oily Thanks for the advice . I will swop the existing 1400ss head over giving me a 1800ss with the solid followers, more hours in the garage 😬 Oily - good spot with the solid followers, goodness knows where I may have ended up without your advice. Chris

Hi Oily, Just in from the garage and I think I have indentified that my existing 1400ss has solid followers. I have taken off the cams and removing a follower reveals a small disc that sits on top of the valve guide, a bit like the ones you have on your site, although they are simple discs not caps. You mentioned in your earlier post that if the existing head has solid followers I cannot simply switch the SS cams to the new 1800 head (hydraulic followers), just wondering what the reason is for not doing this. I had wanted a nice simple 1400ss to 1800ss upgrade but this looks like it complicated matters somewhat In order to keep the SS cams do I need to swop the complete heads? Appreciate the advice, I'm now a little lost Thanks Chris

Thanks Oily I'II check when I switch the cams across Chris

Hi Oily, Thanks for the info I couldn't work it out - no advantage over a standard high port 1600? I'm converting from 1400ss to 1800ss over the winter, no reason why I should re-use the existing head? Cheers Chris

I have a 1400 ss, engine block has "webbing" and I had thought this was an early engine with a low port head. Closer inspection with the inlet manifold removed leads me to think the head is poosibly a high port. The casting number shown between inlet ports 2 and 3 is "55" and "LDF" there are no further digits. Also on a machined vertical face just behind the distributor "C R72" is stamped in the head, this looks like an after manufacture marking as opposed to the casting id's above. I understand the car was originally a race car of 1996/7 origin. I have looked at DVA site but cannot indetify the head - any ideas anyone? Thanks Chris

Hi, I am looking at the 1400 - 1800 upgrade and would be very interested in your 1800 engine. Don't want to jump any queues though.... Chris

Ray, See you at the Phoenix at the end of the month Thanks Chris

Hi Ray, Please could I take the clutch cable? Thanks Chris

I fitted an electric line lock to the front brake circuit and have a button on steering wheel so the line lock can be operated as "handbrake" for hill starts, SWMBO can drive the seven in this configuration (seven has under dash mechanical handbrake which is out of reach when strapped in). Stop on hill with footbrake, operate line lock which holds front brakes on, ie maintains hydranlic pressure on front brakes. Foot off footbrake seven remains still. Normal hill start, just release the "button" as you normally release the mechanical handbrake and away you go. I purchased the lock from "Real Steel" and as Julian says it is an American import from Moroso. I'm not sure how long you could run one for in one continuous operation as mine is only used for a brief period of time mainly for hill starts. I have the details at home and could send them through if you wish. Chris

Hi Mick, I'II take the 21R if it's still available. Cheers Chris

Ian, Really sorry to hear about this *thumbdown*. I hope there is no major damage. Chris

Hi Martin, Bought a cut off switch from this supplier last year via ebay, no problem, prompt delivery. *thumbup* Chris

I used the SANEF telepeage system this year whilst on holiday. It is just brilliant. Easy to acquire/use, and the look on people's faces when they see "english car thinks he's clever does he - we will see the reversing lights soon - WTF how did they do that !" 😬 😬 SWMBO thought it was good to extra snooze time for her 😳. I would add that the only reason I found out about this system was via BC so thanks to everyone who spent the time to explain/post links/translate. *thumbup*

Hi, Mines a Ring striplight from Halfords, sounds the same as Tom's. I have followed a friends seven who has the same arranagement and the extra visability is a very noticable, a good idea to fit one *thumbup* Chris

Looks like a replacement is going to be expensive at around £200 😳 😳 So a secondhand would be nice *wink*, anyone upgraded and have one lying around? Alternatively what would people suggest if I was to wander down the upgraditus path, chuck out the 1400 and replace with a 1800? (Not sure if I would need the inlet manifold even if upgrading) *confused* Chris Edited : Sorry David, forgot to thank you for the Redline advice *thumbup* Edited by - Chris Norman on 6 Sep 2006 12:14:47

Wow! 3 replies in 7 minutes, took me longer to find the torch in the garage 😬 😬 Part is the alloy manifold below the black piece that has SS written on it (forward facing) so that may make it a standard Rover bit - sorry explanation of the component are not too great. Thanks Chris edited typo's Edited by - Chris Norman on 5 Sep 2006 22:50:45

Have had some problems with eratic tickover so was having a look to see if there was anything lose or obvious air leaks and noticed that the inlet manifold is cracked, first crack is around the front/top bolt holding manifold to the head, second crack appears to be running down the manifold on number 2 cylinder inlet. The second crak could be letting air in. Not sure what to do , is the manifold a CC part or Rover ?- it is the piece that attachs to the head and has the injectors (blue bodies) in it ,and is alloy not plastic Car is 1.4 SS with low port head Thanks Chris

Oh Yes! *thumbup* 😬 😬

That was me. Got back from two weeks holiday in France late Saturday, first chance I had to get out was Sunday. Nice weather for a quick blat. Thanks Chris

Bri, Mine arrived yesterday, many thanks. Chris

LIR my 7 has underdash handbrake, which only gets used for the MOT. However SWMBO would not drive the car because she is unable to reach the handbrake for hill starts when strapped in, so have fitted a brake line lock which locks front brakes and acts as "handbrake" for hill starts. Lot easier than fitting tunnel mounted handbrake. Chris

Hi Mick, I'II give them a call tomorrow, thanks for the sizes. Interestingly the oil pressure pipe and fittings seem OK, probably just me being a numpty 😳 and not explaining correctly - they (Think) do seem very good. Thanks *thumbup* Chris

So fed up with dodgy electric temp and pressure gauges I ordered from Think Mechanical combined Oil pressure/temp and separate water temp gauge. Think were very helpful on the phone. Great. Gauges have arrived and the sender part of the temp gauges will not fit into the water rail fitting/apollo the fittings are way too big. Water rail and apollo have fittings for standard VDO senders. The sender unit is connected to the gauges and cannot be changed, so have I been sent the wrong gauages or am I missing something - do the mechanical sender units require fitting to different points on the water/oil system? Chris

Sat 1st July 10am Yellow full cage heading away from Guildford. We were in the green Passat. Nice day for a drive, if I could only fix the temp gauge on mine Chris