Chris Norman

Graham thanks for the comments re 48's and the 205's. Maybe I should put a more powerful engine in 😬 😬 😬 I will measure ground clearance and look at the adjustable platforms with a view to going the 48 185/60*13 route. I guess I should also check the width of the rear rims to make sure they will take the narrower tyre. (You are right the 48's look very nice, what a tart I am 😳)

Yes I have adjustable platforms so I guess I could recover the lost height. Sump looks very low! Thanks

I am quite new to se7en ownership and need some help in selecting tyres for my 1.4SS. Currently has AO21's fitted - 205/60*13 on the rear and 185/70*13 on the front. Both front and rear are almost worm out so need to be replaced soon. I have read through several threads on BC and was thinking of replacing with AO48's but notice from George Polley's site that 48's are not available in 185/70*13 (I was going to replace with the same sizes). The 21's seem OK to me (no real experience of different makes etc) but I would like to try a beginners track day at some point and BC appears to indicate 48's may be slightly better than 21's for the track, whilst still being very good for the road, which is where the vast majority of my miles will be done. Why would someone put 70 profile on the front and 60 profile on the back? Is this to do with wider tyres at the back or just ride heights? Should I just replace with the same to try and keep the same setup? Going the 48 route means (I think)putting 60 profile on the front - but lowering the car, which is low anyway! Any help/words of wisdom will be gratefully received. Thankyou

Good to see/hear your se7en back on the road. *thumbup* *thumbup*

David, I think you are right about a top coat protecting for more miles and it will be easier to do as surface will not preparing for second coat. (leave some gloves on the forecourt for those of us who have oil burners ) 😬 😬 😬 😬 Back to the garage to see if I can lid off the tin

Used POR 15 on chassis last night. Appears to be very good. Preparation was scraper to remove flaking powder coat and then wire brush. AVES is right about trying to remove from flesh it's a right bu**er, have scars to proove. Tin advises to decant to smaller vessel and then reseal tin asap, with cling film between tin lip and lid otherwise when the paint dries the lid is permanent fixture. Hopefully an indication of how well it sticks to the chassis. Needs top coat if used on surfaces that are subject to UV as it must degrade I guess.

Mark, Please could I have the locking wheel nuts? Thanks Chris