Red Line Components

Tang?

Thanks for the reply Malcolm, I will pull the pump off and have a look. (At least I have a spare)

Thanks, I wouldn't be surprised if it is crud in the tank that caused the breakdown but something (else?) is preventing it from starting now.

The Car: 1968 S2, 1500 pre crossflow, single weber, mechanical fuel pump. The engine stopped out of the blue, symptoms similar to running out of fuel. Bonnet off and glass inline fuel filter located between the tank and the pump was empty. Added some fuel (but actually the tank was found to be almost full) and the car started and ran for a mile or 2 before the same thing happened. I suspected dirt in the tank/fuel line preventing the fuel from reaching the filter and pump. Back in the garage, after cleaning the fuel lines and replacing the filter I try again, fuel is pumping OK (with the fuel line into carb disconnected) but no hint of firing up once connected to the carb. Lots of cranking, plugs sparking but dry. I now suspect a failing weak fuel pump or some sort of block in the carb. But this wouldn't have caused the empty filter. I think i will replace the pump next (as this is a simple swap and I can rob the project car of a good pump).... Thoughts?

Message sent

Brand new xtraspecial seven nose. As supplied, now surplus to requirements as I am using a super lightweight one instead. Never fitted. Yellow gel coat, will need painting as some darker shadows are showing through. Reluctant to post, could deliver en route between Bonn - Calais - Dover - Harpenden on 22nd September or 26th September. £55 Chris.mintoft@btinternet.com

So these Weber Misab Plates replace the black plastic mounts between the carbs and the manifold?

Thanks Elie, see you soon.

Thanks for the suggestions Jonathan. The sender fits fine using the Caterham adapter. I have fitted a small battery and will make do with that. Cheers Chris

The original gauge is a capillary mechanical gauge, I have robbed the Smiths and sender from my Caterham. Was going to use a spare 12v car battery.

I need to fit an Smiths electric water temperature gauge on my 1968 Series2 until the original one is repaired. It still has a dynamo and the chance of a steady 10 volts which the gauge needs is zero. What are my options, perhaps a stand alone battery (12v) to run it, perhaps not totally accurate but should work for a few days without frying the gauge?

Redline for sure. I just had to utter 'front suspension bolt kit' and the correct selection was on the way.

Ed, you have Blatmail

Not received the email. . Give me a call

No need Florian, I am driving to the UK soon too Cheers, Chris

I have one, also a crank and a head, all unmolested. Wot are they worth?

A place to store some pictures of the project... (actually I have a Facebook Page for this project "Lord Sutch SB1488" )

Yes, the frame number (not the chassis number) is on the nearside rear suspension mount on my 1981 live axle car

http://www.lotus7.club/guides/frequently-asked-questions/chassis-numbers-what-do-they-mean

Thanks for the tip

My advice, hold out for the perfect car.. If you know it's an s2.... wait for an s2.

I will try to be disciplined enough to do a blog Chris (3)

Thanks John, I might even Blog the rebuild. All the best Chris

Not finally decided John... got any tips?

So, the 1963 s2 Project (code name "Lord Sutch") arrives in a couple of weeks. I will have an Arch refurbished and re skinned frame and I think (I hope) most of the original components. I intend to outsource some of the work including the 105E engine and gearbox rebuild and have an idea of my plan of action while I am waiting for their return but would welcome wise tips from those who have completed a similar project ! Thanks in advance Chris