SamC

Just to close this off, despite all looking ok from the outside it turns out it was the T shaped connector that connects the switched ignition feed and warning light to the alternator that was faulty. I cut the connector off and fitted a new one with fresh crimps and everything works like a charm. Thanks for your assistance Jonathan. 👍🏻

Yeah, odd isn’t it. Jump lead connected directly to the battery and alternator and no light still. Head scratcher as there aren’t many connections in that circuit are there. Is the 11V to be expected? Battery is 12.5V at the mo. Also, could this lamp circuit not working cause the alternator not to charge?

Yep, earthing that brings the battery light on. There is 11V on the other pin… seems a bit low?

Hi Jonathan, Yes, new alternator. Identical wiring to the old one. One mount for the positive then a T shaped connector for the ignition light circuit. Same as the standard Duratec alternator - just plugged straight into the car loom). Engine earths all good. Straps in decent condition and all have continuity to the battery, as does anything metallic attached to the block.. The dash warning light is part of the Speedo unit. Is there any way to check that is functioning? I have the wiring diagrams thanks.

Hi all, after a bit of help if that’s possible please. At the end of last year I had an electrical cut out on my car (CSR260) shutting down all electrics. A power cycle brought it back alive again but from that moment on the battery/ignition light on my dash stopped illuminating when the ignition was turned on. A few miles later and car wouldn’t re start due to the battery being flat and I realised the alternator wasn’t charging. I spoke to a few people and it was presumed that an alternator short had caused the shutdown and I’d just run off the battery since then. I’ve just fitted a replacement WOSP alternator and still have no battery/ignition light and still no charge from the alternator (measured both at the battery and the alternator). There is continuity between the alternator and battery -ve and engine, and there is about a 0.1V drop between measuring directly at the battery +ve and the alternator +ve. Any help on what I should be checking out will be greatly appreciated.

It’s the after market car parts equivalent of ‘May contain nuts’ Everyone has to cover their arses now. Doesn’t mean the products are shite, just that they are designed and sold by someone that hasn’t got the testing facilities to verify the calculations, and doesn’t want to be sued.

Has anyone tried the Goodridge speed bleeders? Half the price and seem to get good reviews elsewhere…

Funnily enough, I did the same. Dare say it won’t be popular.

A word of caution, it doesn’t stop chaffing! Maybe minimises it, but you will still get marks if it is just up against paintwork.

I’ve bought this - sorry (/not sorry!) 😂

I’ve bought this - sorry (/not sorry!) 😂

I’ve booked the first Combe and Snetterton. Looking forward to it!

Ha! Fair enough! Lots of plusgas over night for a few nights it is then! Heat is your friend too. Not heard of the wax method, but that could be one to try too.

IMG_4973.heicIMG_5002.heic

Hi Pete, I did the same last year and had to drill them out. The thin web just locked the bolt and nothing I could do (plusgas/heat etc) free’d it. I replaced it with one of accu’s black stainless fasteners, a penny washer and a nut on the wheel side. This needed me to grind a flat into the inner edge of the wing stay prior to powder coating. I then trimmed the bolt to be just protruding from the nut.

If you hold pressure on the brake pedal and your foot drifts down then it’s a Master Cylinder seal (assuming no visible puddles!) The fluid on the bulkhead could be from the fluid passing over the seal and being rapidly returned to the reservoir when you take your foot off the pedal. This obviously can’t happen now. The master cylinder is the only place where the pedal can drift down but you have no external fluid loss. None of you other options would explain the pedal getting longer each pump (I suspect the pedal may not be returning fully).

I’m pretty sure CC didn’t go to the DVSA, it was the reports to the DVSA that caused CC to react. DVSA has not implemented any recall as far as I am aware. Hopefully they haven’t fallen for CC’s comparison to a broken spring! To be honest, I didn’t even know the DVSA existed before this thread!

Radio silence from Caterham. Not heard a stitch since the follow up questionnaire.

Nice to meet you on Thursday @Ainsley. I should imagine that’ll turn out to be an expensive trip to Silverstone!!

Pete, it isn’t a big job to take the arch off entirely. It’s a fiddle to work on on the car otherwise. Interesting to hear about your new protectors not aligning with the arch holes. It’s on my list to do this winter on my CSR too. Sounds like a pain!!

Yeah, agreed, mine definitely weren’t knackered. It did drive better after for sure. Particularly on bumpy back roads. How much of that was the powerflex bushes or whether it would have been a similar step with new standard bushes I can’t comment.

The rear bushes on the CSR effectively had nylon cups round them and they were scraped and tatty, and the rubber was cracking on the exposed areas. It all looked very much surface damage, and I couldn’t feel any noticeable play by hand. They were 40k miles & 15yrs old. The front lower wishbone bush was blooming’ hard to get out. Like you say, lots of heat, custom turned up blocks to push it out with and a 6” vice! I didn’t have the tooling required for the front upper, so that stayed in the chassis but felt and looked fine - presumably as it is better protected. Rears were fairly straight forward to push out with a thread and socket. Install of all the new bushes was a breeze!

Either. Both result in excessive joint movement which would fall into their definition of ‘We will replace any Powerflex product that any customer in the world is unhappy with for any reason.’. Not wanting an argument, just sharing my experience.

I fitted powerflex bushes to my CSR last winter and it was night and day better. Eliminated my bump steering sensation and was less crashy. The old bushes were worn but had no play. Powerflex ones have a lifetime warranty for the road.

If the point on the G-Meter had mass, that is the way it’d go. I guess that’s what it’s simulating.