Nigel Blandin

I have had both RBs and Jenvey on my Cosworth BD car. I loved the Titans, but they were rather heavy and caused cracking on the manifold. They do wear rather a lot and I need to refurbish the linkages and such after a few years. When the motor was redone we fitted Jenveys. They seem somewhat ...flimsy next to the Titans, but have not given any problems. The two Steves' set up both configurations and didn't express a preference really. I would say the RBs are better flat out, the Jenveys are more progressive. I know that's a mapping thing, but it seems to poin5 to what is possible. I do know one thing though...The RBs sound better! I think really, that unless you are racing, the Jenveys are probably a more useable day to day. Oh, and with my cams, it was a bu**er getting the RBs to close at the end of a long straight! BD motors suck hard and you need a good pair of springs to shut them down.

Words of painful experience Stephen! I was then taught by Ducati racer Geoff Baines at Silverstone the mystic art of...patience.

There is loads of advice here and the beauty of Sevens is that you can learn lots as you go. However, I would suggest a pro baseline set up and ask them lots of questions as you go along. Then you can play as you go along. what ever you do though - only ever adjust one thing at a time. If you do more, how do you learn what does what? I find that leaving it until you have real time helps. Then note your current setting on whatever you are looking at. Go one way (bump, rebound, castor, whatever) note down your observations. Then go the other way and do the same. Put it back where you started and note your observations again - this refers you back to your baseline. Then have a think and choose a direction. If you are happier then great, move to the next item on the list. If not, go back to baseline, then move to the next item. use the same process and see what effects this change has. It takes forever, but you will learn what you like, what you don't and usually learn that what you originally thought was wrong! Have fun.

Although I see why folk may think that charging a higher price than advertised at time of deposit looks iffy, with the current state of pretty much any global market I fear it can't be avoided. Manufacturers, especially small ones, can't predict, let alone hold pricing a month in advance at the moment, let alone 12 or 18 months. As long as the option to cancel( with no penalty) if the price becomes uncomfortable for the customer is given, I think that is fair enough. There has to be some give and take.

All the same. The actual number may vary, but you are looking for consistency.

My wife and I are currently sorting new (refurbished) phones and here chose iPhone 12 apparently has magnets in the case... let's see.

That's interesting. I have just changed from a magnetic case as I keep a couple of cards in there and I reckon they get fritzed by the mag waves, like man... rail tickets and hotel key cards tend to pack up too. or am I just odd?

My 1990 chassis and two others the same age had a non 'A' A frame! The cross bar was deleted for that year only, something to do with anti squat. But it didn't work and reverted back to the traditional A frame from '91. we welded cross bars back in on the advice of John from Redline. Can't say I ever noticed any difference either way.

Hi Mike, Give them a call. Rita will take the call, she is loverly and knows more than the rest of us combined! Let her know what you need, sump pan, pump etc. The tank may have to come from Redline Components as they will have Caterham specific ones. As Roger said, it's all the same as a cross flow. Both Wilcox and Redline deal with the 'States. Any problems, just shout. I can send photos etc if you get stuck.

Hi Mike, Yes, go dry sump. If you contact John Wilcox motors or Sherwood motors, both are BD experts, can help you and don't overcharge. Dry sump was a factory option in the day and not hard to sort. The tank goes in front of the passenger footwell, remote oil filter...well, wherever it fits, mine is down the side and the 5 port oil pump is a direct replacement. The right side engine mount may need a mod for hose clearance, but I assume yours is LHD, so you don't have the steering column down there which is a right pain with clearances. The hoses can be locally made to get the best fit and routing.

Yup, that was my typo! Ihave it sussed now. I am replacing the switch with a twin pole and have picked up the switched green to feed that. then I am using the green/brown to feed the light. All works now..... But! I came back to it tonigh5 and all the rhs was dim. I checked and rechecked, removed everything, checked the volts, the arms, the continuity...2 hours later I checked the earth by quickly adding another and bingo! As my old electrical gu6 used to say " Check the earth first, not last boy" Doh!

Thanks Jonathan, Thanks for that. I think the common earth on the new led No plate and reverse light unit was the problem. Whichever way I go, new switch or relay I have to get some bits. Boy, it"'ll be much easier when I am living on the mainland- there is nothing here in the way of motor factors any more.

Brain fart No 32. so, old Seven, 1990. single pole reverse switch, which acts as the earth. the reverse light has an ign switched live and this earth from the gearbox. with a traditional reverse light, no problem. At the end of the loom you have green( ign switched live) and green/purple ( rev light switch) but, the new Caterham combined number plate and reverse light led only has 3 wires, red( no plate) green ( rev) and black earth. how do I get a feed to the light when the unit has a common earth? As it is an led that changes "form" depending on the feed in, I don't see how.

It's Dremel time!! welll, I needed an excuse to get a new cordless one and welll, that old one is a bit knackered darling annndd, is there anything else you want from B&Q? Never waste a good crisis!

Have Caterham moved the rear lights further up the wing? just fitting their led units on my 1990 car and the block profile is much more curved indicating they are higher... there are lots of holes where the originals are, so it looks like I have a fair bit of trimming to do...

I have a spare Member's Meeting ticket, for the Saturday with roving grandstand access. Fellowship discounted, so face value £134. I had to buy two extra to get one for my son!

Yes thanks. As I am still in Jersey, I now have the annoying wait for delivery which is supposed to be Saturday, but will more likely be Tuesday. On the boat with the car Wednesday. I think I can just run with the light disconnected to test the car out for now and hook it up on arrival.

Thanks Tom. I did indeed use the link and ordered the diode link. thanks for that.

Hi all, Does anyone have a spare Saturday ticket they are will to sell on? thanks.

Ha! The power of Blatchat! Quick search and a fantastic video posted by Doug at JaL and voila! I need a couple of ballast units on the indicator circuits to counter the low demand of the LEDs. Posted by Doug of JaL a couple of years ago; Hi Tom, The problem is with the wiring with the indicator lamp on the speedo as it does not have its own earth. Therefore you will get 'sympathy flashing' where both front indicators flash together. As far as I am aware this is on all Caterhams produced before 2001. I have also seen the same issue replicated with owners using a stack dash. Here is a very interesting video clearly explaining the problem and why the front indicators may flash together due to the light on your dash. ​https://youtu.be/auLY6IYeqcI?t=466(link is external) The video states that front and rear LED lights are affected by this. Rear LED lights on Caterhams are unaffected by this but still require a relay specifically for LED lights. I hope this helps. Doug Just Add Lightness High Performance LED Lights & Accessories for the Caterham 7 ​www.justaddlightness.co.uk(link is external) February 2022

Evening all, so, I have Caterham rear lights and JaL front indicators with the new JaL flasher unit. however, whichever way you flick the indicator switch, all 4 corners flash! hazard switch works fine. the car is a 1990 Ford motor, so the old wiring loom. I have all cables identified and if you disconnect an green/white or green/red you do get the corresponding side to work in turn. it seems that as soon as you reconnect , the extra circuit( even not activated) causes all four to flash... Could it be the flasher unit? A bad earth( just thought of that so will check now) or something Ihave missed?

Thanks for the manuals. I'll keep badgering away.

Thanks for the heads up. I will check that before swearing at it! I was flummoxed by the reverse light circuit yesterday until I remembered it's an earth switch, so that runs "backwards" as well.

I have the relay, I'd not considered the light issue Jonathan. So the new' uns have a light for each side?

Or, has someone got a modern Caterham wiring diagram? I just need to match the other colours...Doh. It's been a long day and I have a headache!