OldAndrewE
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Everything posted by OldAndrewE
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Alan, no link to their website comes up, only email. Probably worth adding
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Tips for Starting up after 10 years laid up in a barn...
OldAndrewE replied to JP's topic in TechTalk
I would also add change any rubber pipes in the fuel system -
In that case the NS2R has a load rating of 86V XL Extra Load - maybe not that suitable for a Seven although I know others have used them
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What width tyre are you thinking of?
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Are you sure that none of that debris has made it past the filtration system. If it has I would worry about obstructed oilways
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With Aeroscreen - North bound about 17:00 today
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Try Speedy Cables, they should be able to help you. https://speedycables.com/
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CSR Differential Removal - can't get the long top bolt out. Any ideas?
OldAndrewE replied to MarkTheGoose's topic in TechTalk
A general comment: Jubilee type clips are not the best in small sizes, especially for fuel. O clips as 7WOTW says or if you want something removable this type of clip is better
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14 inch wheels - limited choice for replacement tyres
OldAndrewE replied to gin-fizz-whizz's topic in TechTalk
I am going to be in the same position of wanting tyres for 14" wheels when my restoration is complete. Seeing a lot of "votes" for Nankang NSR2 I checked them out. The 185/60 14 are rated 86V XL so presumably intended for a car much heavier than a Seven Edit: Has anyone tried Nankang AR-1? -
I have no experience of the Vauxhall engines but all the aluminium manifolds I have ever come across have had studs threaded in the manifold (UNC). I can see no need for a studs with nuts on either end and would have thought that without a tapped hole a suitable length UNF bolt would be a better option The other possibility is that you do have tapped holes in the manifold and the nuts are on the protruding stud to lock it in place. The one bolt may have a stripped thread
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My 1985 car has a Smiths speedo with a reset cable about 9 inches long that ends just under the dash to the right of the steering wheel - is this what you have? I would have thought that a call or email to Speedy Cables would sort it for you Edit: Should have realised that you are probably talking about a 21, not a 7 so I guess the arrangement is not as mine. The comment about Speedy Cables is still valid though
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Can't help with supply, just a couple of comments! Are you sure you have an original nose cone? As far as I know the original Lotus S2 (and I assume S3) bonnets were shorter and the nose cone a bit longer. The nose cones were made a bit shorter and the bonnets longer to cater for twin 40s. There used to be an angled manifold that moved the carbs back but I think it was Caterham that shortened the nose/lengthened the bonnet. I'm sure somebody will correct me if I am wrong
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When I inquired with Chris about one he said he did not stock them but could order them. Merlin Motorsport have them but they are not cheap (c. £100). I am in the same position as Alan, i.e. I have one that is corroded
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https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/xflow-starter-motor-0 Just found this thread - may not help though, you still need to be sure which gear you have Mine is 110 teeth but it is not a Caterham supplied engine/box (box is 2000E)
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I guess you need to know how many teeth your ring gear has. A bit tedious but can be done through the starter hole carefully marking up as you go
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There are two different circumstances: Firstly "modern" engines with management systems that can be suitably mapped to use whatever fuel it is intended to use. Secondly older engines with carburetors and traditional distributors with a fixed advance curve. With these the type of fuel that is suitable will depend on how the engine was built (compression ratio, advance curve, etc.). I am guessing that most of this type of engine in Sevens will have been built with power in mind meaning that they will suffer on lower octane petrol. As already noted V power will meet the octane requirement and possibly also give a small power boost.
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Agreed, I saw some tests reported some years ago where Shell V power was the best. The others had the octane rating required but V power also had a better calorific value i.e. more power as well as more resistant to pinking. I only use V power in my modified classic mini (95 bhp) and will use it in the Xflow when it is back on the road
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3/8 24 is what mine is (that is UNF, UNC is 16). My car is 1985 so perhaps owners of later cars could also comment
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Further to my post on the other version of this thread just now I can confirm that my fan is automatic via a thermostatic switch in the thermostat housing plus I seem to recall there is also a manual override switch on the dash (all part of the wiring as supplied by CC). It is in bits at the moment so cannot confirm
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Alan, mine has the same set up. I never had any problems although I do not recall sitting in traffic much which is when it will be needed. Apart from fitting a larger fan in front of the rad (which will be more of an obstruction to air flow when moving) there is not much option with a Xflow that I can see
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No problem Peter, just lucky I have got mine in bits at the moment so I could check it
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Peter, it is a plain ended solid pin that projects from the cap by approx 22mm. I think 1/4 inch diameter and I guess it is fairly hard, i.e. not mild steel
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Live Axle, Long Cockpit, Bench Seat - The Perils of a Short Arse
OldAndrewE replied to Tazio's topic in TechTalk
Alan, is yours a cable clutch? If so then I cannot comment but if you have a hydraulic clutch then there is quite a range of pedal adjustment available by changing the length of the push rods (I have the opposite problem of long legs and short cockpit). I see you have bench seats so a thicker back should be a fairly easy job and if necessary seat squabs to bridge the floor cross member could be done if the originals end up too short -
Is that a cable clutch (mine is hydraulic)?
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There must be different versions. The starter on mine is under the carbs just in front of the drivers pedal box (RHD)
