timb2117

Hiya Rob I did same and the gearbox sensor was cactus, caerbont sent me a sensor, and new speedo (the vintage of my older one wasnt adjustable) and I just mounted sensor on front wheel bolt, then programmed in the revolutions/ speed and cross referenced to a GPS. Wasnt too hard and better result than the dodgy gearbox mounted thingo.

Ha ha I was born and brought up in Burton On Trent and ended up in Northampton before emigrating, best thing we ever did :) Even bought my original "seven attempt" a Robin Hood from the Malvern Hills - wasn't that one a lemon :) Used to love (and am very jealous) that you can still visit the Stoneleigh kit car show, my next post covid trip back I will try to do that and Goodwood! Parcel her up off to post office. Let me know your email address for the paypal and cost to post and itll be done straightaway, plus 25 to the prostate charity. Oh Good beer too I miss that :)

thats a lovely idea Mark , thankyou I would be more than happy with that. Please let me know with the hand luggage idea but if not happy to cover postage. Cheers Tim

thanks Mark sounds like a fixer upper that I can use. I am a little further afield, err Brisbane Australia :) If you are Ok to arrange post I can pay that and 25 pounds for the trouble? - Could paypal across if I got your email - if i Do it as "friend" you dont get any charges :) 62, Achilles Drive Springwood, QLD Australia. 4127 Cheers Tim

Hi after the "caterham" branded harness 4 or 6 point, doesn't have to be in date, but the type with the aero / QR buckle would be preferred. Happy to pay postage. Red would be even better :) thanks for looking, Tim

Have had/ done both and would go the ceramic for aesthetics particularly, I do have a very old tale of woe with wrap - a friend sent his kit car up in flames, by wrapping the whole exhaust as it passed through and close to GRP sill, when the car went up the analysis was that the wrap had super heated the steel exhaust, and gases causing a pinrpick hole to act as bunsen burner onto the GRP...... Who knows the voracity of that but that's what he said, I am sure knowledge and materials have improved since then, and ceramic I have seems durable and very cleanly done.

Not exactly sure of your location/ area worked on but the key thing to me is "the bolt will only turn a small amount" - for me that would = cover it in wd4o and keep moving it a small bit until that gets larger and larger, along with more doses of wd40. However if this is painful, can you get in with a grinder bit easier than hacksaw? As You note fresh bolts will be needed anyway. Sorry I'm unfamiliar with your car.

Sorry Chris would love to help but I'm in Australia, it was a great family business, competition coatings, they only charged from memory $250 and were exceptional to deal with. Awesome thread BTW (NACA ducts are a thing of beauty/ great purpose depending on your application!) and your handiwork is way neater than mine!

I had my primaries ceramic coated, quite cheap and they quoted - 25-30% heat reduction.

Other thing I did was use heavy duty velcro, strips as well as the brilliant sikaflex, the velcro held it in place whilst the sika dried, but also it just popped stright into place. Then put a finishing bead around where it joined the scuttle top. Only advice (which I wish I'd taken) is make as sure as you can that the instruments/ switches fit perfectly as you will be looking at a beautiful aesthetic for a long time, shame to spoil it for a few extra minutes/ hours fettling.

She's a beauty James, takes me back to my Gamekeeping days, I think the record was 13 people, one labrador and one spaniel in one like that!

The gap is 3.71 and the tooth 2.81 sorry John a picture would tell a thousand words :) Hope that clarifies

Not sure if it helps alcal. I just recovered my seats with kit from Oxted I was reasonably comfy in them before but with the new foam and leather in place I now sit higher and the rear back support is way more noticeable, less sitting "in" and more sitting "on" Also even though I think I am a reasonably "feeling" driver I hadn't picked up the breaks in the steel frame which needed welding repairs, altoghether made a great improvement. '05 car with about 45k kms on it.

Hi all - sorry I have neglected this thread since "lighting the touch paper" - possibly to do with arranging the purchase of a lovely Europa s - (anyone know a Mr Mooby who bought it originally from Pete Smith Sportscars in Hatton?) Anyway I measured with my calipers the bottom of the castellation measures 3.71mm and the top of the castellation 2.81mm. (As usual) cannot fault Johns logic borne out by the fact that in spite of very gentle and accurate and repeated wheel on test drive, wheel off reset, (X a lot!) the reluctor ring set up didn't work for my speedo application - essentially I believe too many pulses. So (with apoligies to Mr Chapman) I ended up running it off front wheel hub with custom made bracket reading off the wheel bolts inboard side. - A1 readings tested against GPS and at last happy. The rear reluctor ring is in place and does nothing now.

Just if anyone needs it, in wrapping up this thread, my caerbont speedo is now fitted and working pinpoint (well GPS calibrated) accurate. Running Toyo r888r's 205/45/16 inflated to 20 psi. A 43 tooth reluctor ring pulse rate = 23498 per Kilometre. - settable on the 2005 onwards speedo. Thanks for all the help/ advice, relatively simple once I got into it.

Just for your confidence I followed article replaced everything (and had to weld up 3 breaks in seat frame!) straightforward, Jo at Oxted is brilliant too.

Shudder passat shudder horrible, it took me - bumper, front valance at least 10 other parts and about 50 torq bolts to change one headlight bulb on a vw jetta, truly yuk. Runs in the DNA too just tried to fix the thermostat housing on my wifes skoda vrs, best advice - dont....plastic with self tappers secreted in the lower gastro belly of the car - oh but the upside lots of plastic bits with an Audi badge on them!!! 7's however a real joy, k series 6 speed box in out box refurbed and lots of nice bits done and it was enjoyable (apart from the bit where I thought I had squashed my 17 year old son underneath it) - I told him it was character building.... If you need any advice drop me a pm as you go (albeit different engine) happy to "advise."

Sorry Jonathan it just looked from the photos in the OP that the upturned bracket was touching the inlet pipe and the bolt head was within 1mm of the rad tank, negating the bobbins action. Whereas the photo you have just above shows same alteration bracket clearly missing both areas and the bobbin can work well. Anyway hes getting you on the case so that will see it solved :) Best regards Tim.

Sorry I am a bit neanderthal, but from my viewing of the OP photo, it needs; 1. The right angle bracket which is welded onto the chassis cutting approx 5mm back from the right angle bend. 2 . This tab inverting and welding back on to the same spot. Result no rad movement up or down, the bobbin is doing its job, no clearance issue for pipe inlet.

If you're shy of too much ripping apart, consider a K maps ECU - made a nice & noticeable difference to mine.

SV so sorry doesn't help you much, however I added the alloy pads to get the brake nearer to accelerator, works lovely for heel and toe now, and avoids bending stuff....

Thanks Scott I would have expected a far bigger roasting :) and Stu that was one of the major reasons I tried MTL then took box out and rebuilt it, second was atrocious. Andy if you've put it in just see how it goes and decide then, as you say a second opinion cant hurt either.

Sikaflex to anything, hands, feet, boeing 747 - it wont budge :)

I know its a hornets nest but just rebuilt mine (with stellar help herein) and the gearbox guy swore by straight 30w engine oil...Previously I ran Redline Mtl, she's quiet, slick shifting and all better now, I'll probably change the box oil at least yearly...

bought new now thanks