timb2117

Hiya hoping for quick advice, 2004 K series supersport sv, original brake line reference 77210f. I am fitting some Jack Webb front calipers - hoping to get fresh braided lines made up locally, Jacks caliper end is an M10x1.0 easy - the inboard end that fits into the bodywork (photo attached) what is the designation/ type of thread please. (Would like to get them pre made rather than wander in with the hose and wait for workshop to make them up.)

Have to agree with Stu in the first instance, I tend to go belt and braces.... I did a post cant seem to find it, but essentially here in Australia it does get a bit hot, with the 1800 K 'history" I chose to go a bit OTT.; So nice new radtec with side tanks, from demon tweeks, ducted the air at rear of rad with carbon fibre panel cut to fit (thanks Ebay) and a big fat separately manually wired fan on front of rad....My idea is at end of track sessions hit the extra fan - in traffic same. When on it boosts the airflow considerably and she gets back down to acceptable faster. Bear in mind though the trade off of in effect of having the extra hardware in front of the rad when its turned off which does cut airflow a bit....

Sometimes I think the reality of the ownership experience doesn't match the minds eye dream....Not me I even get joy in the 2km trip to shops and back let alone track days, country drives, the conversation starters, etc etc.

Hi Andrew glad to see you are breathing life into a classic. I currently have Mota Lita 290mm leather rim alloy spokes on ebay - timb2117 comes without the centre logo though. Have look its on for $200 and will post probably about $50 but for another 7 owner I would go $200 flat..... Your call, good luck with your project it'll be awesome.

Yup I did try that one but here in Australia I think they're more used to huge 4 x 4's! Plus non metric it threw them and they are usually brilliant, thanks anyway.

Hi just wondering if anyone else has come across this one; the bush only in my imperial bellcrank is old and stuffed, Caterham give part number 70257 imperial chassis, but this is for the whole unit, surely its possible to press out just the bush and replace that? If so has anyone a part number or supplier for just the bush?

I use ebay you can usually spec the style, font colour and size, pretty cheap too.

Sorry if this sounds like I am belittling you but its a trick I only learnt recently from an old pro - whenever doing a gasket lightly press it together and let it sit for about 10 mins (assuming a touch dry seal is at about 30 mins) then go through your tightening procedure, otherwise the sealant just gets pressured out and doesn't....seal that is :)

Yes I found the willwoods but a racing friend found that the actual caliper warped with usage, leading to very uneven pad wear, noise and premature replacement, realise that's just anecdotal though.... One Q I did have just came back from relatively hard track day and both rotors and calipers stayed really cool, not even registering on the heat stickers....Wondering if I am suffering from upgradeitis? - are the twin pots going to stop me better/ eg can I leave my braking point on the straight later with them? Or should I just mash the brake pedal harder with my 15 year old originals?

Hi Mark it is a club for the help of the members and Jonathan was hugely helpful to me with the DRE stuff then asked me to post for benefit of others. He will be doing private PM's to forward diagrams etc and personal email addresses cant go on the forum or you will end up with lots of really helpful people offering to relieve you of your life savings or worse still marry you and stuff! Hope this makes more sense now.

Yup I emailed DT and they are saying "same time as Caterham" all good I think I may well look at Jack Williams on advice from K7VCT thanks

Hiya Caterham are out of stock so very unlikely request - has anyone got a set of caterham 4 pot front calipers, discs, braided line kit that is usually sold under part number MB06? For a 2005 SV with 4' pcd wheels? And the double whammy is plus freight to Australia? Well you can only ask .....:)

Hi Nick may help but I bought the carbon form fleabay, only about $30 then used existing battered ones to template then cut with a dremel (& face mask the dust is toxic) even the rivet holes can be lined up, bit of contact adhesive, bit of sikaflex and on...

Oh dear funny, moral of the story is when in doubt trust the wiring diagram, the white and black - possibly white and slate grey feed from loom to tacho is the RPM feeder from engine so connects to the DRE green, (as per the seven wiring diagram) simples!!! - And if you cannot be bothered getting out your fancy ohms/ current reader thingo and try to test wires with simple test light then you may well spend about 3 hours trying to get the DRE to work on the incorrect feed.....Which does come up as live when the ignition is turned on and car fires but in essence heaven knows what it is doing - I ended up using the DRE "rpm check facility" on the instructions and this made me see how dim I was.....thanks for help forum geniuses.

Hiya in the same vein I've got live and earth but tested with engine off and key in accessory position, only one live wire in to caterham rev counter (used that for my live feed) - then with engine turned on the next wire along the wiring block was the only one to become live so I used that was thinking it was the rpm feed....Err not...please help, 2005 K series 1800 vvc. Essentially the unit comes on and functions correctly but it is not reading any revs, and therefore the lights don't come on other than a start up burst just to tease me that the unit is alive.....

Yup thanks for the nudge- I am changing bushes on front and rear anti roll bar and at the rear the linkages too, on advice from an engineer friend I am going to go rose joint the rear linkages too as it would seem to be a bit more robust, the car is 15 years old and showing a lot of play / knocks and bangs so should gradually reno into silence. Ill look into redline too thanks.

Brilliant to my rescue! Just nice to order the right bits before they travel around the world! Thanks.

Hello good people hopefully just some quick advice; 2005 sv roadsport dedion with watts. #1 Front anti roll bar, if I grab it near end where it attaches to suspension arm and move it there is some play, a mm or two (I have noted a bit of a knock front end over bumps) on the Caterham site "front anti roll bar ball" does this live inside the housing and a replacement will fix the play? Part #2 rear anti roll bar same clunk and play in both the "cotton reel bushes" that secure the roll bar and in the linkage that attaches it to the hub, Q? how do I know if it is metric or not to buy from Caterham site? Thanks for your time.

Money on it that its behind the dash, you've inspired me I think i'll damp mine down too now!

'Worry gauge" priceless! When I bought my car it neccesitated a 6/7 hour trip and the oil pressure was hopeless - entire trip I was "OMG this old girl needs a new engine" first job replace sender and gauge with VDO and it has brilliant oil pressure. Incidentally the VDO dude had come across this fault many times with the Caterham style as it has a spring mechanism inside that is prone to failure...Either that or he was a really good salesperson...

Hiya just catching onto the end of this thread, here in Australia cooling is a thing.... OAT is used a lot my current coolant has a 7 year life, (No I will change it way before then!) Rad wise Demon Tweeks advised the radtec and I am very happy with it, arrived in 5 days mid covid too! Still plan on the QED thermostat when it arrives, to account for our differing needs compared to the original K series design. Also after a degree of research I made up a carbon fibre cowling for the 7 inch Caterham fan at the rear of the radiator, essentially to duct the fans air over entire radiator surface not just the 7". However to allow airflow through engine bay I only took this to edge of radiator not blocking off the whole nosecone airflow to the rest of the engine bay. Finally as more insurance fitted an 11" manually switched fan on the front of the radiator for any track day emergencies, essentially I can pre empt any cooling issues by running it on cool down lap and during the pit lane entry phase. (Only counter intuitive bit is that it slightly hampers cooling on freeway simply because of its bulk in the way of the air). During my research I did find out many interesting facts, some companies make up their own rad tubing giving them flexibility to engineer in solutions although one local company that supplies v8 super cars apparently make their tube too thick = strong but doesn't cool efficiently. Allegedly some cheaper companies offer extra rows in their rads in an effort to appear superior but they are simply not flexible in their tube purchasing/ availability, somewhere in the middle seems the way. So regular 34degree days and track work still keep it down at a steady rock solid temp.

Genius! Thanks heaps good people -info like this is hard to come by in Australia.

Hi just wondering if anyone has a caterham branded shift light (usual fitment on top of scuttle just in front of steering wheel)? for sale?