timb2117

Brilliant I knew you guys would know - yep I was looking at the o ring thinking done deal! Many thanks all great, now hope my fuel system overhaul fixes the pesky lumpiness at 5500 rpm, soon to find out! Thanks again.

Hi guys checked the build manual nothing... New aero fuel cap and neck assembly, does the cork gasket go outside the painted bodywork underneath the aero cap part. OR; Inside the bodywork on the flange of the neck assembly where it contacts the inside of the body panel? Ill probably double it up with fuel proof gasket anyway but want to get it correct. Thanks heaps in advance for this simpleton Q?

Shouldn't be - I was uber careful with routing, sealing, rubber grommets etc However I love your analytical view, and yes its usually something that I proudly "achieved" that causes the issue and I did focus most of my recent wiring checks on the rest of the loom so I will dig through all of it and double check, thankyou.

Another thought... my ecu is mounted on the exhaust side flat horizontal behind the battery near to the firewall. The first thing I did with the car on purchase was to make a composite carbon fibre/ alloy/ heatwrap shield for the battery which also blocks any radiant heat from reaching the ecu. Convected heat is still present but with exhaust just there I figured it was worth anything to protect the delicate electronics and also battery from heat. I also used silvered flexible wrap for starter and alternator and sensors on that side of engine bay.....Just dont like heat on plastics, electrics, and rubbers.... Certainly if the ecu or wiring was too hot it could load up the electrical system and cause the fuse blow?

gotcha yup its a process....I have; 1 Changed fuel filters, rubber hoses. 2 changed away fromt he ugly metro fuel cap but put a boat one on, not as hideous as it sounds, but I wonder if its too well sealed and preventing venting. 3 changed coil packs, leads, plugs. 4 just ordered and within 1 1/2 week will fit new caterham aero fuel cap and filler neck. New fuel pump, and replace all gaskets and seals on system. Will let you know how I get on. mines really from 5500 revs up and my mate who knows stuff suggested old pump cannot keep fuel lines pressurized at high loads. Perhaps your ecu is shutting down as it tries to do same?

Thanks tons Gary that seems definitive I will get on to it. John and Gary (Im trying not to sound patronizing as we are all adults - unlike some forums) comm's on forums is hard enough but the ability to see beyond the misunderstanding and rectify it is absolutely great and exactly what I would hope for from fellow 7ers, thankyou it restores my faith in forums for decent helpful and knowledgeable mates. Cheers.

That's an elegant and clever long term solution, like it. Thanks ECR for your knowledge and suggestions, sadly I am struggling to plumb in my mates pressure gauge due to the crimped hoses etc. But think it may well be the only way to be sure will check prices on new pump as it is a rolling restoration (52000 kms and 15 years) so happy to replace new parts as and when. Any other advice would be great Ill keep going til its fixed or Im broke! :)

Also can anyone recognise what pump fits in here?

Ok guys tried twisting and turning the loom cannot cause the fault. Back on track yesterday its a bit worse, right and left handers seems just stuttering as you pull through 5500 - 6500 then clears its throat and runs ok but maybe top end too, not quite pulling cleanly maxxed out at 96 mph. Could it be fuelling? pump not able to keep pressure up in the lines as it is really only at the higher revs and therefore high need for fuel? Is anyone supplying the K series in tank pump still. One other lead may be that I replaced the old plastic fuel cap with a stainless one and whilst I ensured all the pipework was retained did the old cap itself vent? I'd hate to think I have created a vacuum in the tank, so the Q is - does the actual cap vent? Sorry million Q's as I work my way through this one, thankyou.

Hiya could you please post a piccie or link to the seat pad? Im interested.

Hiya I am looking for a set of old school rubber pedal "7" please. Also not sure if its a caterham original part but a brake bias valve round type, in blue metallic, sits under dash on tunnel cover at about 1/ 2 o clock from gear lever. thanks for any help.

What he said :) ha ha. Many thanks James that is exactly it, wish the washer were tighter but it isn't for that reason. The ptfe tape is essentially redundant in terms of sealing the washer doing all the work. I would have been a bit happier with a more substantial mating surface but am guessing thats the point its small therefore under high torque, hence does the job. Jack said it has been done for a long long time by Caterham like this so I suspect whilst we all have our own incarnations of this brake kit they all use the same principles/ washers. thankyou all I appreciate the attention to detail.

Yeah totally agree ptfe is ok for taps but that's it :) Its only role was to get the pesky washer to line up centrally and stay that way as I tightened it up. I had already checked re the sealing with Jack as a an engineer this end queried the practice and validity, he works on v8 supercars and warned me that they get up to 700lbs of pressure - he cannot even press the brake pedal hard enough with both feet!

I was advised that they were the same. Most impressive was the bolt on bolt off nature of them really an easy match up to the hubs and no difference in lining up (which is just as well because the steering rod end joint has barely 2mm clearance to disc!)

Just thought I'd share fitting of Jack Webb big brake kit to an imperial sv roadsport. I chose them after advice on the forum and Caterham were struggling at the time with Covid supply chain. Supply was super fast and email response likewise from Jack - V helpful - only thing I needed extra was part number 77209f braided lines from caterham (wish I'd known at time as I would have ordered together.) Took hub off and re greased bearings too took about 2 hours per side including a major clean up- one hassle was the copper sealing washer for caliper end was a touch big and off centre so didn't seal first time I bulked the thread up with a bit of PTFE tape so it centred perfectly and cinched up well. Bleeding dead simple and pedal feel and power much nicer than the old 15 year old Girlings. I have retained the original master cylinder after reading the threads on here and it seems A1 and a quality bit of kit..... Now for the track acid test.

Im with Wright payne but added next level, screwdriver, then next to it slide the tube that comes with wd40 cans and a squirt of wd40 then let capillary action work miracles and its off easy as no force no leverage no risk of breakages used it for years with fragile carbon bike handlebars:)

Hearing all the good advice, I picked one up on ebay super bright and about half the width and depth of yours I love the mounting position as it is as high as possible, and neat, and my narrower version leaves a lot of real estate for go pro. But agree with hood on its obscured at the one time when you need it most, in dull dreary wet conditions catch 22.

Drattit did you guys have to make such good sense? Yup as part of the rolling restoration I have re wrapped the loom and whats the betting I've disturbed an age related gremlin I will definitely give the ideas a go many thanks all for your usual logic which sometimes I lose in the rush to "cure a part" I'll get my patient head on and dig in. (Would be a touch easier if I could get someone here in Brisbane AUS who could plug and play my ecu...ha ha.)

Would crank sensor do it all time ? Its very specific to right handers high revs. Suspension v.s. loom/ earth I like I will hunt around thanks guys

Hi guys any advice would be great. 2005, 1800 K series, on particularly right hand corners at 4/5000 rpm the car stutters, literally just does not pull cleanly, pretty intermittent usually on track day as I don't get near to its limits on most roads most days! Full tank of fuel too. I've changed coil packs x2, plug leads, fuel filters (inbound and return to tank) and am considering checking out the sock filter in fuel tank. I have got a fuel pressure gauge to test the pump but its all banjo joints and crimped connections, aghh. the pump is mounted on drivers side of tank which would possibly indicate I need a swirl pot - but even with full tank of fuel she does it..... Any other ideas?

Actually no and you are right in the past when I have gone blaming fuel it has usually turned out to be electricals......

Hi good people I am doing a steady rolling restoration of my 1800 VVC K series roadsport sv. I am finding occasionally cornering/ revving hard a bit of misfire/ stutter in acceleration (full tank of fuel) I want to try to be logical (for a change) have replaced fuel line return filter and the chunky post tank metal (bosch from memory) one as well. However is there an in tank one incorporated into the fuel pump? Which I should have a look at? I have done all the normal servicing things, like plugs, air and oil and filters, virtually every rubber part and hose (Australia cooks and eats rubber). The car is 16 years old so it needs the TLC. I figured as it seems to be at high revs maybe fuel pump/ filter as at normal speeds she purrs like a kitten. Any of your brilliant advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Also from my little knowledge seriously consider ducting the air, what I read stated that the fan (lets say 8') only pulls air across the fins directly in front of it so pie r squared the 8' (oops trying to sound clever should know better) whereas if you duct so that the only air getting through must pass over the fan it is in effect drawing air from across the entire fin range. - S'pose another way of thinking is that the manufacturers only waste valuable engine bay space for good reason when they fit dirty great big plastic rad cowlings....

awesome thankyou John, sort of half wishing I had been patient enough to await the full kit being in stock at Caterham, but tried to do so and then "back orders's" wallowed them up, all G and your help appreciated.

Thanks guys thats a bit more to go on.