timb2117

That IS cool David, is the thermostat in and working?

Thanks Jonathan that's what I hoped but didn't want to risk it after investing recently in new battery and ECU! Its a Motocell Lithium Gold (sold locally under that brand but probably available in UK under something else?)

Hi, I have followed this thread keenly, fitted my Lion a short while ago it worked superbly. After about 2 weeks of no car use it was flat (thank heavens for "in battery" computers that isolate it before it becomes flat dead like a lead acid would've) - I'm guessing the immobiliser.... Nice charge on the NOCO2 and its back to A1. Sooo - just fitted the FIA switch PURELY to the ground cable from battery (yes I know there are better ways to fit it :) but want utter simplicity for my brain to cope) - which should kill the immobiliser drain. My Q? is - if I flip the FIA switch to off, and therefore there's no Ground/ circuit could I attach the NOCO 2 and charge it safely without removing the battery cables or do I need to take them both off before charging, like the instructions say. In anticipation thanks for the know how.

Looks like a lovely car, I would think an international website platform of some sort as your market is huge for a weapon like this, and buyers/ collectors can import/ export. Good luck.

Just a hought, double check the throttle cable is well lubricated and moves freely and the throttle butterfly same and the stop that it returns to has not been moved or gone out of setting. - Very long shot as I dont think it would cause all those symptoms but you never know and its free to check, good luck. Tim

Crikey Nigel you're testing my limited photographic/ yoga skills with this one :) Sooo if you can see in the bottom right corner of the mirror I have placed in situ there is a black (with red threadlock) grub screw exposed - now I have the same amount exposed as is inside the housing - about 10mm. I replaced the flat head grub screw to allow me to get better access with an allen key than I would have had with a flat blade screwdriver, and it works. I did give the whole mechanism a thorough clean, de rust and lube prior to fitting also the ends of the selector rod that it acts on got a dremel to death to polish and smooth out some marks on them. - so far so good.

Don't want to hijack your post and turn it around but just a thought....- This is my new shiny Lithium battery and after fitting it I now have additional space for a truck under there, maybe that could help your shoehorning in? (Does anyone still use shoe horns anyway?)

check for sale on here just popped up 300 pounds.

Ahh I know that sucker well, I had big issues with the detent pin mechanism too tight, managed after full gearbox rebuild to lighten the pressure a bit. Now its magic at shifting smoothly. A lot of talk on here about totally different "feel" to the gearshifts with identical 6 speed caterham boxes (actually same box as yours just a load of extra gubbins) and I reckon the little pin, selector could be the hassle. At least the Diff is not quite the same hassle to get off and back on again, great work, glad you'r eon road again.

Wow you youngsters know all about this tech stuff I feel positively geriatric, ha ha - thanks heaps 7 wonders.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/114070097418 Wow I managed to post a link! Hope this helps, I used for a different fix but they hold firm, probablya bit of threadlock too..

Drat you poor fella! I am racking my brain trying to remember how/ what I did to mine last year when it was out, I tried to produce a go pro / youtube of all the steps but my go proing is less competent than my spannering (which is no mean feat! :)) From memory the input shaft seal is also suspect EG how much play was there in the input shaft bearing? - I replaced mine as a just in case...

Gotcha yup totally agree, and on my system with my puny leg power its enough :)

I'm sure it makes me go faster too :)

Thats gold. ha ha ha

I feel like Switzerland inbetween Beagler and SLR, totally hear what both are stating, both are correct. I am also fascinated by people like race drivers who have sufficient feel MID RACE to alter and adjust their brake bias to allow for fuel load, tyre wear, weather etc I have really just fitted it to achieve one simple aim and left it there, and am satisfied that limiting the rears power (per equal pedal stroke to pre fitting) has evened out some of the rears over exuberance and the front does more, relative to the rear. Thanks all though for the information and nice links.

Not sure on the leather but I got a lovely Ford Focus ST one in carbon then turned an alloy adaptor, it looks awesome and even the orientation and diagram of the gate is correct. Can send a phtoto if you want to subscribe to upgradeitis..

I understand your points and Paul yes totally get what you're saying. In effect (I hope:)) by limiting the pressure going to rear then I stand harder on pedal thus transferring more to front than the rear is getting. I certainly dont think the pedal pressure i use is untoward even for a non - assisted system, and certainly on track heel and toeing is a breeze. I'm happy but then I can also see the mechanical beauty of Ivaans set up. I did try pad compounds but it was not successful (again though I think I took the advantage differential of front to rear way too far by fitting the twin pot fronts) - did I mention they look pretty though? Ha ha.

Or some fibreglass tillets or similar?

Hello hoping to help a friend source some leather or good condition cloth seats for a '99 S.3 her in Brisbane Australia, can ship within mainland.

Couple of things, looking closely at your photo - the left side of the catch seems to have splayed out a bit at the central pin through point, maybe over stretched over time has led to a bit of the metal bending, maybe try a flat hammer on one side of pin and hit the other side to tighten up/ increase friction? Also (and maybe linked) the shut line of the bonnet to body panel looks....- like airtight....., maybe the catches have worked too hard for too long - how much "clamping force" do you use to close them down?

I do get you Guy, I really do - I have a garage full of "special tools" for cars and fancy carbon/ titanium bikes -it simply was not readily available and I wanted the work done and it had zero impact on the end result, hence the end tips of the pliers and not leverage

Ok yes Beagler you have gone into it way more with temps etc than I have, I just noted that the reaars carry a lot more heat than front and originally I could not even get ANY heat into front calipers. I agree the general braking is superb, I just wanted more work out of the fronts, I have road pads at cooler running on front and comp ferodo on rear. Photos: I ended up with an AERO brand one that was not cheap but fits well up against the scuttle - all it does is reduce in varying amounts the amount of fluid getting to rear. the two small nuts above it are the mounting bracket I made as it was only made for 90 degree mount. Please ignore my hideaous wiring and do you know how hard it is to apply sikaflex neatly in this spot? :) Hope this helps, BTW I'm running toyo proxxes r888r tyres in 16'

I just carefully used the long nose pliers ends and it worked easily, not really too much torque to apply to achieve the result either.

Cant comment on longevity but I have just done same as Blue7- even freshening up with carbon and alloy battery tray too! - Great minds think alike. Kicks like a mule is tiny and light and will I'll smile again in a year or so if it outlasts my AGM acid battery let down.