timb2117

Me too awesome service and product!

Thankyou all I think I have tons to go on now, John and Scott I swear you are using Jedi mind control to know exactly what I am looking at and thinking! :) The photo you sent was exactly the sender I have fitted and the explanation for the changeover year makes sense too. Plus the actual loom harness I Couldnt be totally sure until I get closer and clean it (and get my non colour blind son to have a look)!! Perhaps thats why I never became an electrician.... Please dont be alarmed I see most colours just have zero colour match clothes taste :) Thanks again forewarned is forearmed when the new speedo arrives I will let you know how it goes.

This is the sucker... confirmed it does have a 12v supply when ignition on. 3 wires leave the actual sensor - blue /brown/ black. There is no visible LED - would they have used LED 16 years ago? They join into 3 loom wires coloured I think - white/ black and purple / Black and green. I've scrutinized the build manual to no avail. Was considering (neanderthal) disconnect it take it for a drive if alls well then consider finding the place near the cockpit where these wires are and simply wire them to the new speedo? Does seem very weird though to have gone to trouble of putting it there WITH voltage then not using it for anything......

Hi John this is the old speedo with reference number, the new one caerbont are supplying is ees3-1b32-17b Yes the link to CC website was accurate you are correct that right hand gearbox sender which (as it becomes electrical after the right hand - must have 12v supply - I think) Car was an 05, K series 1800cc VVC roadsport SV, supplied in a box to caterham cars australia pty ltd and assembled by them. I will have to jack up the car and check the rear led - after just taking the gearbox and engine out and replacing them I am sort of over things at moment and just trying to do my online research prior to the last leg of fixing the dratted speedo. Oh and dont even start me on the reverse light switch that I very neatly sheared the two diddy brass connectors on and am waiting for that in post too :) Many many thanks for the direction and advice I will take it all into account and my membership fees to this great club will never be overdue!

Thankyou you good people - yup I can fairly easily run the wires and the great guys at caerbont are including a sender specific to their speedo, Scott I am a bit loathed to pinch the signal from the existing sender if it is (long shot) doing something useful like feeding the ecu....I will have as good a look as possible at where its wires go to. Worst case (given the less is more philosophy of our cars) I will fit the new caerbont sender in tandem with the existing one and wire it fresh to the new speedo.

Thanks Jonathan that's the sucker, although cant for the life of me think why they fitted it then ran the speedo direct off gearbox.... Reason I'm asking is I have effectively cactussed the gearbox feed and have just grabbed a new speedo from caerbont which is the later programmable type- and wouldn't it be so simple to use this feed? However without tracing the wires all the way back up the car its pretty well impossible to tell where it goes or what it is feeding in its current format. Could well be the case Ivan - I wonder if the builder fitted it "coz its in the box" then ran out of use for the signal :) so I will have a bit of a look as far as I can, couldn't be any more tucked away though, groan.

Hello, this is the rear inside driver side of 05 K series SV. The toothed wheel has a sensor with black wire attached. Am I way off in guessing it feeds in to the ECU for road speed measurement? - I know from sad experience that the speedo is driven from gearbox......Thanks for looking. Tim

Hello I am after a speedo like this one but mine is the 04 and I need 06 onwards, apparently the later one was different pulsing (hall effect) and I can set up a sensor for speed as my gearbox drive version is cactus. Thanks for looking Tim.

Hi John many many thanks I will revisit the spring, which was non existent when I bought the car, - it was actually running a hydraulic pedal mechanism that was a bit problematic, I replaced with cable on advice here and fitted a spring arrangement as the pedal was swiningin' in the wind - just now with putting in a brand new clutch and CRB etc I wanted to ensure longevity, certainly at tickover the CRB is held onto the diaphragm springs, but it will be easy to improve this pressure as the spring is crudely adjustable. Thanks again, great resource of information.

Yup I did read Johns article but just wanted some clarification, think I will leave it lightly touching on the spring pressure and go from there. Sadly when I say Ford type 9 in Australia people go gooky eyed "what you mean its not an auto?/ Sierra what?" :)

Good people I have read and re read the posts, 6 speed caterham gearbox, 2005 to 1800 K engine.... I get the pros and cons but do I leave the new Clutch Release Bearing lightly engaged at all times on the tines of the clutch release plate, or (easy fix) fit spring/ stop point to keep it just clear and not in permanent contact? Million dollar Q? Then part B, does anyone know the exact rubber seal size/ designation for the rear end seal on the same box (I know CC have it but would like to source locally) - on account of some numpty fitting the new one the wrong way around.....shame on me....- it was a big day though :) thanks a million, Tim

I note from the overhead photo that the exhaust manifold under the head of the bolt is a different colour to the rest of the pipes - so looks like the liquid has been leaking down onto it then frying.....It would make way more sense to be coolant unless the bolt is too long and has gone through the block? - that would be hard even for me to do :) -so tracking down from top gasket as Wright payne suggests would make more sense.

Hi, just wondering if anyone has any 4 or 6 point harness (can be out of date - for track days only) preferably red preferably with the aircraft type release, not std seatbelt. Thanks. Oh and post please to Australia, obviously at my cost. Thanks again, Tim

Thankyou very much Revilla I am always impressed by your knowledge and depth of understanding, oh and patience with the partly informed (me!) I did indeed turn it back in the direction it came so fingers crossed, thanks again I really appreciate your time.

Sorry no it wasn't in the safe position - however does this look about right or could I be off still? (the photo is angled a bit, looking square on they are perfectly in line) If I take the front cover off now should all the timing marks be lined up? - If thats the case then I will double check it then hopefully sleep soundly :) thankyou.

Ok -I know - feel free to start any reply with "Tim You're an idiot..." REAR 2 sprocket VVC belt, took the left exhaust sprocket off having carefully white paint pen marked both sprockets, to a fixed point, and marked the belt to the sprockets, with white marks and counted teeth etc As soon as I popped the sprocket off, the inlet spun about 180 degrees! - That'd be why all the manuals say anchor them down FIRST........ The Q? is - I realigned to the marks (hoping I turned the inlet sprocket the correct way backwards) fitted new belt with all lines lined up. then turned engine manually multiple times and it turns clean and smooth however - have I c***ed it up? As the VVC only works at 4000 rpm plus I'd hate to find out at those revs.....Any ideas would be gleefully appreciated - even if they start with "Tim You're an idiot" In anticipation thanks heaps.

Hi Andrew - Oil cooler please if you can post to Australia (obviously at my expense) thanks Tim

Ok soooo after much angst I gave up on the box its at a specialist:( ! After advice from them the detent pin is not worn and jamming, but some less spring pressure may help, apparently the detents sole job is to keep the gear lever from flopping about under bumps/ cornering, so If I lighten pressure/ spring too much it will be messy. One other thought is that the knob on the lever is purposely heavy, if I get a carbon knob and ease the spring pressure it will assist with the sticking issue as I will be moving less mass from rest. Although conversely I believe they put a heavy alloy top on the lever to speed the actual shift process. Anyhow I plan on changing the slot head locking grub screw for an allen head, then when the box is fitted I will still be able to adjust it if my calculations are wrong.... I guess the moral of the story is quit before you're in too deep. Many thanks though for the good advice and help here.

Thanks ECR I struggled a bit establishing contact with Steve, although everyone treats him as Yodah status :) lots of emails and no phone reply, probably got him at a bad time of day as we're In Australia will try again Monday.

Next bit of begging :) - Ok the box is sticky coming out of 6 and 4. The detent pin above seems to be snug and not wiggle in its housing, to make it easier to come out of gear could I just undo the screw a tad that secures it thereby relieving some of the pressure on the pin? Then if I do that how do I know its got enough pressure so she doesn't keep jumping out of gear? EEKK any help would be awesome and much appreciated.

Absolutely awesome help many thanks - WrightPayne -you should change your tag name on here as you are the opposite of Pain! And Jonathan you'd better keep your name as then I have a reliable "go to person" at every turn. Thanks guys at end of this project i am youtubing it and will try to include every bit of great advice you've given.

Hiya all, soo just starting on my 6 speed gearbox rebuild, wondering if the pivot part (bottom right) of this fork looks correct, it seems pretty loose and slack on the pin that it sits against, although there doesn't seem to be excessive wear. Also the debri next to it seemed to be some sort of stuck on fabric or something? Any knowledge would be appreciated as I am going to have a fun week stripping the box.

I got one of these, made by topeak bicycle company, single battery last for ever, compact and easy to read, very accurate as my MTB pressures need to be to the single psi. Wouldn' t use anything else, try fleabay.

Hi MPH, I had the same issue but with some careful back and forwards (and a double hernia getting in and out of the car to set it! :)) I managed to adjust the brake so that at bite point it brought my foot just near to the accelerator, then also fitted some simple bolt on alloy pedal plates as per diagram, which got my foot perfect for heel and toe. as you describe.

Rj you may well be right, on my track days I am braking at about the same spot as the single seaters and thats crazy. the fronts I got are JWM and certainly if anything need to get more heat into them, but as I said seem to work well. Only other thing was a mate reckoned an uprated master cylinder to move more volume of fluid, he did not like the pedal however I read lots of threads saying the uprated unit gives a wooden pedal and I think mine has good feel....good job we're all different :)