BrettJ
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Everything posted by BrettJ
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I have brand new Caterham car cover for sale, this was purchase directly from Caterham Cars. This item is new and hasn't been used so selling at £200 + postage.
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@Eriedor, the reason why I asked is that it looks like the accelerator end snapped and I thought it could possible be because it couldn't swivel.
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With a dry sump is the catch can pressure created from the blow-by or the oil pump cavitating?
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@ Stuart, Yes I have just sent an email to CC as my car has only 300 mile on the clock. I just wanted the wider audience's opinion before I did.
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@aerobod, this is my thoughts too that either the wheel hasn't been machine correctly or the hub. However the wheel does has a small chamfer, but clearly not enough. @ Jonathan, the matting surface of the wheel is bear metal. With regards to the nuts, I don't believe this to be the problem and the wheel is rock solid when bolted on and CC supplied the nuts. @ Dan, I did think about this too, but as the wheel does have a small chamfer already, I can see that there is already a ring around the hubcentric boss that is about halfway (depth wise), which made me think is because of the chamfer that is doesn't go all the way to the face or the hubcentric being too big. If I had to paint the hubcentric boss, I don't think this will give me a true reading due the chamber on the wheel.
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Has anyone come across where the inside face of the wheel does not sit completely flush with the hub. My first concern is safety and the second is getting the wheel to sit straight on the hub. Please can you view the two videos, the first ( ) is where I use paint on the hub and bolt the wheel on, you'll see the paint doesn't get transferred to wheel which proves it doesn't make contact. The second ( ) shows that both the inside face of the wheel and the hub are straight.
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@ Blue7, I can start it after a week and a bit, but anything longer it won't. I think it drops +/- 0.1 volt per day.
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@ Blue7, I have the 12AH battery from Jack and my immobilizer ran the battery down to the point it wouldn't start. I connected my CTEK Litthium XS charger to it and it charged it no problems within a couple of hours, I didn't need to use the reset button.
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@ Eriedor, did you silicone the top of your accelerator pedal which prevented it the cable from moving?
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The IVA test results were good, however they only test up to 3000 RPM. I'm thinking the over fueling was only really happening when accelerating hard.
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Well this is a new build and I've have only done 300 miles.
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What is the easiest way to tell if my car is running correctly? I have a feeling that it running rich as the exhaust looks like it's sooty and I can often smell fuel.
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What are the advantages of the Watts links over the Radius arms, or vice versa?
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Is the mount stuck to the dash with magnets too?
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To Paul N & Temple Cloud, was the frame on your nets completely flat on the back? Mine aren't as the net is wrapped around the frame so I'm not sure if self adhesive velcro will work.
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Thanks you for all your input, I think I'm going to use rivnuts on the outer carbon panels of the footwells.
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Has fix the cargo nets Map Pockets that Caterham sell to the interior carbon fibre panels and is it ok to just pop rivet these on?
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Rob, where you taking yours for the IVA, if you are taking it to Gillingham, PM me your phone number and I can give you a few pointers. Mine passed last week Friday and I didn't have time to take it through PBC.
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I used this one in my build; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283500049956
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So I bleed the brakes again today and the pedal feels good, when I drove the car I didn't even notice how many travel there was on the pedal as it just felt normal. The process I followed was to slacken off the handbrake adjuster, then remove the rear calipers one at a time and wind the pistons back. While the calipers were off and the wind back tool was still in place as able to get them to almost a 45 degree angle. I then bleed each caliper, to my surprise there was quite a lot of air which came out.
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So I bled the brakes again on the weekend and the pedal feels slightly better. I jacked the back of the car up to get the nipples as high as possible and even tapped the calipers with a rubber hammer while bleeding them, I did get a few bubbles out but not more than two or three out of each caliper. One thing I did notice is that when I first time press the pedal it travels about 2 inches and is rock hard, but if I release and press immediately it only travels about an inch the second time. If I leave the brakes for a minutes or two and press it again it will travel 2 inches again. Now I know that I did operate the handbrake prior to bleeding the system during the build, would this cause this type of behavior and what is the best way to reset the handbrake mechanism in the calipers?
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Thank all, this is a new build and I wasn't aware of the issues with the rear calipers. I think I'll bleed them again using aerobod's technique. @ChrisC, yes I will be presenting it myself for the IVA test before it goes to PBC.
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I've just driven my car for the first time and the brake pedal seems a bit long. It travels about 5 cm before stopping and the front wheels locking up. Is this normal and if not what is the average travel for an upgraded MC with 4 pot calipers?
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@Lowndes, thank you. This is how I have now routed them as per ChrisC suggested.
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There's a cheap 2008 race car going on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265517577910?hash=item3dd214b6b6:g:-ykAAOSwW69h78Dd
