Ralph45

Thanks Ian I believe all the info that I will need has been sent to me by Jonathan but if I need more in depth engine details I'll get one. I've saved the link regards Ralph

Jonathan I'm more than grateful for the extent of the info. I believe I speak on behalf of the vast majority of our club in saying that we are all a lot richer for your never ending source of knowledge and general contributions to the upkeep,and dare I say love of our wonderful little cars. Im truly grateful. Thank you again Ralph .

Thank you Jonathan. yhm Ralph

Hi folks, Wondering if there is anyone able to point me in the right direction regarding a list/table for all,or at least most of the torque settings for a 99 1.6 k I want to do a total nut and bolt check all over it and a permanent record of this would be useful. I did have a download with all the relevant settings but I stupidly let it go with my last seven. thanks in advance Ralph

Very neat being set in the floor and great use of a single garage

Certainly does look precarious I'd be scared to breathe just in case.

I have seen your lift in situ when I've been over at your workshop,handy to put all the trophies up on that high shelf on the back wall interesting to know the manufacturer is Automotech,obviously a good bit of kit as you have chose it. thanks for the reply Ralph

Your garage looks very well sorted....very inspirational, I can't wait to get mine up to scratch i'm fortunate as I've got nearly twenty foot floor to roof height to play with whitch opens up more avenues. great to see you work on all sorts of various projects, keeps you on you're toes

Resurrecting an older post Ian,I love the look of Mr Olsen's garage,it's quite inspirational as I'm about to start the inside of my garage barn. I've been scouring the net for ideas and have just fallen in love with the colours and old oak beams,this would be in keeping with the interior of my barn. In particular the idea of a flush level floor lift really appeals although I would ideally have a two post lift set with the entry level set in the floor with no ramp. Any members who could advise or enlighten me regarding ideas on a good or recommended make of lift would be be greatly appreciated. If geographically it makes any difference I'm in Mayfield East Sussex,as I truly don't have the spare time to deal with my Caterham stuck six foot above ground level for two weeks while I wait for a repair should the company be based 300 miles away when I want to drive it tia Ralph

Hi Mark where are you located? Ralph

Ordered and paid for my Christmas present

I was the white transit sport van with the blue shelby stripes that stopped and gave you the thumbs up your car looked and sounded mint

Fitted foam to the contact points on the underside of my bonnet and no more wear,the only signs of contact are impressions of the bonnet in the foam tape. easy to replace every few thousand miles or so.

Regarding reply #4 of DJ's,No It's not right, my old girl is 21 years old and recently when I was at a friend of mine's dealership we put the car up on one of the hydraulic lifts to have a good look at the underside of the chassis and there was absolutely no corrosion or flaking of the powder coat at all anywhere.

I'm sure cc would take a sympathetic stance with regards the failed powder coating you have on the chassis,it's only two years old and the finish should not have failed as it has. After all they want to please the customer with the product,it's their reputation and most importantly customer relations. Just remember this thread is forever and it will be looked at by hundreds if not thousands of current and future owners,the problem resolved by a positive response will only be conducive to good business and trust in the company. I personally have never other than the out of stock issue for parts, (still current cc !) had any problems with the company and I can only say they have been very fair with me. You state that your car is only two years old and viewing the images provided it has very evidently been built with great consideration to its longevity. This is clearly displayed with regards to the application of paint protection film, it self an expensive option and the added detail of protection to the wiring loom in the places where it could possibly suffer abrasion against the edges of the bodywork. Your car appears to be a very conscientious build with longevity in mind. Speak to CC nicely and I'm sure you will have a great car without the legal Agg. keep us informed.

spotted Wednesday 20 March in the BP M&S local fuel station Crowborough. very highly polished with yellow nose,the car looked immaculate I was passing in traffic

Hi dear mr Aeroscreens just read some comments on a post that you commented on and decided to click on your username as you are one I see frequently on the forums. your blog reads just like my introduction to seven sprinting at the very same venue,be warned racing is next! I imagine we live in close proximity to each other as the meetings you attend are the same as I shall be attending this year now I have a seven again. look forward to meeting you and your seven soon Ralph 45

I enquired about this package about a month ago,my concern was the drain area on the tank is circular not like other tanks,they have faces on the drain area on the bottom of the tank for a spanner to hold when you remove the magnetic sump plug.....is there different versions? I'd be interested to know.

Thanks for the help

can anyone tell me what are the standard front brake calipers ?what model spitfire / herald ?and where can I get some from? Im confused as rimmer bros charge in the region of £80 each and Caterham seem to be about £255 each! are they the same and equal? thanks again all.

What size or depth would the shims need to be and what material is needed?

Please can anyone guide me in the right direction to obtain a new set of standard front brake calipers for my 98 super sport s3 ? Im sure I read somewhere they are from a spitfire/herald or similar but would appreciate some clarification on their origin. The next question is where can I get a set from ? thanks in advance Ralph

That's correct, it is as saundersian said above,and I believe there is another one just come up on eBay with the filler cap and bolts if that helps?

Hi GPBox with regards to your question below referring to the paint. for a winter project, looking to stip out the rear dedion,, A-frame etc..that all look a bit tatty underneath so could do with a stip and repaint (powercoat ?)..I'm pretty handy with my spanners, more interested in best practice steps: I recently spoke to arch in the last three weeks asking about refurbing the rear chassis rails and a frame paint and they told me to use Simonize satin acrylic spray spray. my car is in incredibly good condition (1998) chassis but had suffered the inevitable stone hits to the rear tubes so I decided to take it back across the chassis below the fuel tank,tank support angle parts (there's probably a correct name for these parts) the A frame and chassis running from rear of car to front A frame bushes. I spent hours masking up because I'm so fussy really hating overspray and when it did come to spraying I did some very light mist coats to start and slowly built up the layers allowing each to dry as per instructions on the paint can and I can honestly tell you it looks factory finish.There are no visible joins between powder coat and paint and the finish is an absolute match to the OE one. This is a subject I had researched regarding paint finish and manufacturers for well over a month as I could not bear the thought of it going wrong and with the reassurance of speaking to Arch gave me the confidence to go for it. Im not a mechanic or work in a body shop by profession,My trade is with food and has been for over 40 years so give it a go,I'm so glad that I did and am just a little smug with my results. I hope this helps you make you decisions and may help others thinking about what to use should they want to tackle their chassis.

No worries,good luck hunting you'll find some.