CtrMint

Does anyone know the part code on CC's parts site for the "White nylon anti-squeak washers" that sit between the A Frame and DeDion mounting. Struggling to find the part. thanks

Actually you've given me an idea, liberally wrap the pipe ends in cling film, that should do the trick. Thanks.

I finally made a start this evening,...... Successfully removed the ARB and A-frame, all going well if a little basic. I figured the next step would be slacken drive shaft nuts, release the handbrake cable and then release the brake lines. Does anyone have any clever tricks for temporary sealing the brake lines so I don't get fluid every where. I'm thinking the fingers from a rubber glove slipped over the brake line and cable tied. Any recommendations appreciated. thanks

thanks all I'm surprised someone hasn't tried running something smiliar to the following to closely monitor the temps. https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=9425

Hi, Having read various articles and posts on the forum and also the excellent guide here; https://www.lotus7.club/guides/maintenance/bmw-differential-titan-limited-slip-unit-how-check-protect-while-service I'm looking for confirmation regarding the correct oil for my new Titan. The guide suggests SAE 90 GL5 LS oil, however CC sent me 75W140 during my original build. I'm about to order my new oil in readiness for the diff going into the 420R, so thought I'd double check. Thanks

Thanks Colin. I've finally had chance to compose my blog post for those that might be interested. https://www.caterham7diaries.com/post/modifying-the-radiator-mount

if it's of any help I can confirm it's threaded on my tank, which is a late 2018 420R.

Can't you use the threaded port on the bottom of the oil tank for a sensor? That's what I was planning.

Based on the labeling on my replacement radiator, it was made by PMA Group in Leicester. It's on the part label, top of the radiator if the same.

You need one of these to dip the 420R oil tank, has hot and cold markings. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/oil-system/6968-dipstick-duratec-dry-sump-tank-triangular-type.html?search_query=dry+sump+dip&results=139

Hi Colin. Mine always failed between the top of the end casing and core, engine side, and nearside. Your experience seems very similar, though I'm not sure what you mean by slime? I'd be interest to know how thick the side wall is on the top hose. As per the thread, I'm wondering if there's insufficient give in the hose. If you've got the thinner walled version, it might also indicate the reduction in wall thickness isn't helping. Although you could have simply suffered from a quality issue.

forgive my ignorance (stupidity), would it be easier to work on if you lowered the diff with the shafts and examined on a bench etc? Again sorry if dumb question, I'm watching and wondering for when I tackle my Titan in a couple of weeks. Thanks

Thanks Jonathan, I'm familiar with those brands, though I do expect the supplier will be based on capability to provide a custom hose at an acceptable price point.

Given the revised hose is still not the correct shape; Next week I'm going to ring around and see what the cost is likely be to have to correct hose made. If there's any fellow 420R owners that are interested, please let me know. Economies of scale will certainly be a factor.

I must admit I had mixed feelings over the new 170. In one hand it's great they've been able to extend the market again etc etc etc. On the other, I still have an 18 month old car with 900 miles and still haven't seen the required revision... I've tried to avoid be grumpy over it. No eye or processes monitoring their "technical debt"......

Thanks Chris "These cars are constantly changing, as suppliers come and go, expecting things to remain the same is just unrealistic. CC just doesn't have that sort of buying power." I appreciate that. I don't believe they randomly change specs of a part just because of a change in supplier. I'm sure there is some part validation. I guess we won't know for sure whether the reduction in diameter was an action designed to better accommodate both rad layouts with one hose or just random. Either way, I'm sure it could have been suggested before I modified my car, but more notably before CC shelled out for a complete rad and cooler under warranty.

Chris can you post a pic if you have the revised hose. If the material has changed I shall raise that with CC and push for a discount on a new hose. Also how did you find out the hose has change, the shape appears the same on the parts site. The more I've thought about this, if CC revised the wall thickness, it might have negated the need for me to modify my mount! I did run my intentions via CC, including why, you'd think they'd just say we've increased the clearance with a new wall thickness. Sometimes I do wonder... Rather frustrating start to my Sunday. thanks Edit, (again). I've been and checked my picklist. it's the same ref as that used for the current hose. Normally when CC revise a component there's a increment in the last char, usually a letter. Well that's the approach with the radiator.

It does support OBDII, along with ISO-15xxx

It would be much better if a hose capable of supporting the new design rad was available. As far as I'm aware it isn't. Viper offer a service tooling and manufacturing bespoke hoses. I wonder how many it would take for that to be affordable. Possible group buy? Maybe CC could adopt the solution too.

Based on PMs I received over Instagram when I posted about the rad failure others are experiencing similar problems. Also there's the ongoing discussion about the radiator quality, maybe the rads are better than thought and a contributing factor is the hose. It's overly stiff and doesn't naturally fall into the required position. It's design to meet the radiator further in the middle, hence why it appears to sit close to the bonnet. Of course I might be chasing something that doesn't exist. Having had a couple of issues, which CC put down to bad luck I'm trying to minimize any potential. At the moment I'm thinking about cutting the hose under the plenum, adding an insert and then running a flexi hose to the radiator.

HI Jonathan, Thanks for the support. "Is that long fat hose ordinary black rubber throughout?" Yes it's a stiff thick walled rubber hose all the way to the back of the engine near the submarine. It's surprisingly hard for a coolant hose. "If you remove one end does the other end sit nicely for length: so that it isn't compressed when connected at both ends?" I'd say no, there is some additional length present, around 2cm of excess, so a little tricky to trim. Making it too short might cause the hose to get dangerously close the belt too. I can see your thinking, but given the stiffness of the wall I'm very doubtful reducing the length would render that much of an improvement. "Is the smaller hose running across it at the bend bearing on it?" Yes but and I know it's not scientific but from touch there doesn't appear to be any noticeable vibration coming from that hose. I've found this sort of hose' https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/28mm-id-x-225mm-long-vulcoflex-flexible-coolant-hose There's also a number of options from Viper https://www.viperperformance.co.uk https://www.viperperformance.co.uk/silicone-hoses_10226_ultra-flex-hose-750mm-long.html I'm not sure if my modification to the bracket is the fix, even if it is, I can't believe the level of vibration is good for the rad, so making an improvement here, has to be beneficial.

it's all a bit unsettling, a complete failure could lock the rear axle and cause serious harm. I'm glad I'm sucking up the cost and dropping mine out after 5k. It will be interesting see what sort of state it's in. I've got everything now, diff, plus complete bolt packs for the rear suspension and axle, along with the braided brake hoses kit. I'm also trying to sort new suspension through Meteor also, figured I might as well upgrade that too. If I can use up the half tank of fuel tomorrow I might get cracking on my tear down too. Sadly the fuel in the car is a mix of E10 and E5. Following CC's recommendation i don't want to leave it with E10 for any length of time.

this large one

yourself sir.

Might be a good idea, but I'm slightly suspicious I haven't solved the fatigue issue completely. I noticed this evening there is still a significant amount of vibration being absorb by the rad, not from the chassis mounts, but the large diameter stiff hose at the top. Holding that you can feel most of the vibration at tick over in that hose, rather than the chassis. I'm wondering whether I should try and swap to a silicon hose, maybe cut the stiff hose and use an insert to extend into a silicon hose, which might suppress more of the vibrations.