CtrMint

Hi Out of interest why did you take it? What was the general noise like before discovering this? Thanks

If its just water ingress, I'd try a ceramic detailing product which should seal the surface and offer good durability way beyond waxes and other sealant. The benefit of the ceramics however is that you won't need to sand and add lacquer, especially if they aren't lacquered from the factory, thus you'll keep a factory look. I'll be doing this when I finally start using my 620R which has carbon wings.

I degreased everything thoroughly, then followed Roger's advice. I started with grub screw just poking out the bottom of the clamp thread, then went around tightening everything gradually. That seems to have brought everything together with sufficient force to hold the columns secure. Thanks

Hi, I've been looking at the steering column play this evening. No matter what I do I can't get rid of the play. The video shows the play, yes the grub and nut aren't present,, but this just makes the play easier to show, the same play exists when the grub and nut in place. No matter what I do I can't remove the play. I've been installing the clamp, making sure it's dead center, tightening the clamp bolts. I've replaced the spring washer etc. Then added the grub screw and nut. Is it possible the quick release aperture is too open? The clamp plate looks ok. Any advice really appreciated with this.

there's a bit of scope creep going off at the moment I'm now doing the diff, braided rear lines, and a suspension upgrade, also need to fit the CC rear LEDs. Undecided whether I need to fit the gearbox spacer at the moment. Following the recommendations provided, I've source every single piece of hardware, nut bolt and washer that's associated with the diff, A frame, dedion and suspension, basically rearward of the passenger area. Plan is to replace every one, any that can be reused will be stored for emergencies etc, All will be covered here in detailed and on the blog.

what about aerotight nuts? https://accu.group/fr/46_aerotight

Thanks, I did read Geoff's thread but to be honest forgot about it, I'll go back and reread. His thread and guide also pointed out the magnetic plug, I've already sourced two from DemonT, the gold AP-22 ones. I'll get the Schnorr washers on order also, I might order all the hardware around the diff and prop just to be sure. I did consider the flexi brake hoses sometime ago, I guess I might as well now. For what its worth I've also reached out to Simon Rogers, since I'm stripping her down, I'm going to uprate the suspension. The suspension doesn't feel anywhere near as good as the 620R suspension. Might as well do that lot.

Just moving the conversation back to my level So far I've purchased; New diff including cradle. Top bolt & nyloc Spacers for the top boltbesides the oil, is there anything else I should consider sourcing before starting? Also any advice dismantling? Removing the prop-shaft bolts? A frame, and dedion, I'm assuming that all needs to come out. Can I keep certain parts together?Thanks

I appreciate this is w.r.t to a 420, however it might be the same. On the 420 If you have the external isolation switch the port is very close to the steering column and should be immediately visible. However if you don't have the external isolation switch, then its behind the side protection panel, above your right knee as you sit in the car, it's immediately behind the large rubber grommet. Pull that out and you should see it.

A quick update. The UJ didn't move at all, all the rotation is in the wheel is at the clamp joint. It travels from say 12hr to 1hr maximum and only under significant torque such as the dry steering I've described and of course heavy load through a bumpy mountain pass . I've just been and put fuel in for tomorrow's homeward journey and found the steering dead center again because I've positioned the clamp in the correct position by forcing it back. So annoyed with myself, I'm not sure how I've cocked up and ruined the our trip, will certainly have to chalk this one up to experience. Oddly demonstrates why I have a desire for knowledge and the strategy with the diff as per what the thread is about.

@James, I believe I installed the clamp correctly but something is clear amiss. Also I don't believe the travel accounts for the offset in the wheel. @Mrp, not sure it would be acceptable to send parcels to where we are, or whether we'd be able to gain access to them once delivered. `I limped the car back from South Wales, I'm sure I can make it to Heysham without issue.

Managed to get a B&Q special set of mixed allen keys, including the grub screw, but sadly no joy on any imperial spanners/sockets.

just pushed it the road. I think the play is in in the clamp, its only marginal but I guess it gets amplified at the wheel. We're going to nip out and see if we can't locate some cheap imperial tools, i do have an adjustable but working around the brake reservoir isn't easy. Plus I think the wife wants to go out.... so its a win win. Will post later, hopefully with some tools.

anyone know what he grub screw and smaller bolts are? thanks

yeah, pretty sure it's engaged. I think I need to get the car on a surface with better friction, testing is a bit inaccurate, I maybe wrong there might play in the joint, its not easy to check

Curious the plot thickens.... Having taken onboard the comments, surely I can't have cocked up the clamp at the top, so I've just been out and checked the clamp is locked solid with no signs of abnormal seating. Yesterday after the wheel clearly moved from the on center, I could feel a 'clunk' under pressure, one clunk in one direction, then no further, then under pressure in the opposite. My natural assumption was that the movement in the wheel was related to the clunk and splines. But I can see what is being said with respect to one spline not being damaged etc. At the moment the car is parked on a gravel driveway, so I'm having to go full lock to full lock to develop sufficient torque to overcome the play. Testing this, I got the wife to dry steer while I held all components within the engine bay down, no play. The clunk is actually in the quick release. I also installed a brand new one, column + boss as supplied new from CC before leaving. I felt my original had a bit of play so decided to replace that. Given there's no specific install process other than mounting the wheel on the boss and the clamp between the column I can't see what I've done wrong. I guess the part is faulty.

Thanks guys, unfortunately the slide joint is imperial and I don't have any imperial tools with me.

James I won't know until we get home but I'm fairly sure. I'd been fettling the top bush and column before leaving so made changes to the area which I feel was the cause. I followed the manual and tightened to the stated 20Nm which I was able to tighten with an emergency toolkit I had with me. Having tighten the UJ, dry steering now includes a single jump left or right regardless. I thinking it's damaged one of the splines when it travelled. I'm going to replace the lower column and the UJ. Can't believe how expensive the UJ is !! I might be wrong, if the rack moved then the clearance through the exhaust headers would have changed, that's remained exactly the same as before.

Cheers Neil, It did wreck the day though, we opted to leave the route very early, so didn't see much of the joys of the trip. Ahh well chalk it up to experience, look towards 2022 and some track days hopefully. I'm going to pull the entire steering out along with the diff now. I want to see if the movement caused any damage to the splines etc.

Well today's learning has been an interesting one. Don't trust the assembly manual you were sent with your kit! 20Nm for the steering UJ as shown in my kit manual. Then revision two available from CC, now 32Nm grrr, slightly off topic I know, but it relates to the knowledge aspect etc.

I'm not attempting to solve the clunking, I've accepted the noise, while excessive, they all do that.. right. Mine has been confirmed as the sintered plate one, which apparently accounts for the higher lefts of annoyance. I figured 5000 miles, the diff needs maintenance, either preventative or remedial, I'm not sure which. So time to remove it and assess. I want to be more self sufficient, as I mentioned shipping on and off island is expensive and a PITA. To that end I'm putting a new one in for the next 5k while I learn/assess the current one. I think that's being lost in the thread. I want to compare like for like, I think its better to learn. The learning thing is really important here, Today for example, I've screwed up some how. The wife and I started the Taffia FnC run however, we didn't make it to Aberdovey. Having fun through the Black Mountain pass my steering moved a spline. I recently did some maintenance on the top steering bush, and some how screwed something up. I had the torque wrench out on all the bolts so not sure what I've done. (we did stop and i hung on the uj nut) The point is, I need to get better... It's cost me some fish n chips today, (we didn't carry on as I'd little confidence in the steering and didn't want to be a slow obstacle for everyone else and ruin their day). If the process is more expensive, and even if I end up long term with an SPC diff, that's fine so long as I gain knowledge.

Guys, I feel like I've inadvertently reopened Pandora's box, specifically the debate over the Titan and that wasn't my intention. I do appreciate your support and guidance, but I'm going to stick with the direction I've taken. CC have actually delivered the diff too. A large portion of what I'm looking to do is learn, and while the Tracsport maybe more reliable it's not going to provide a like for like comparison and opportunity to learn. Over time I'd hope to be sufficiently experienced to truly understand some of the technicalities some of you have mentioned. Ultimately I may also end up agreeing, the Titan is only suitable as a large paperweight, but I want to reach that decision for myself through understanding. Could we avoid the discussion over which is best and how bad the Titan might be, I will need your assistance, but focussed on the disassembly and evaluation. Hope you don't mind. One thing that does confuse me, if the diff is so bad, why aren't the competitors in the Caterham UK series up in arms etc. Surely they're having a bad experience too.

Guys, I'm really not sure how to respond.

Hey, Yes it's for the 420. I was aware other options existed, but wasn't sure what to make of them. In the end I opted to get a second Titan. I figured understanding what CC is doing, the reliability and durability of that design/package might be more interesting and beneficial in the long run. I can still try changes and improvements to my original diff. I got into this Caterham stuff to learn. To learn and become a better driver on circuit I wasn't getting better in the Exige, but also to learn on the mechanical engineering side. Admittedly the mechanical learning curve has been a bit challenging, we're getting there though. Getting a different solution, which might diminish my opportunity to learn just didn't feel the right direction. Either way, the diff arrived today at the in-laws

Thanks David, not sure I'll be replacing parts, though who knows! The aim at the moment is to evaluate the wear etc, but with time I might be able to achieve that leave of knowledge, we all start somewhere.