CtrMint

Cheers James,

I look at Quickjacks a while back, still tempted. I would recommend hockey pucks between the jack and car. I came to appreciate hockey pucks when I had my Exiges, they provide a solid base and don't tend to mark etc. It might help.

Hello All, I’m posting this thread to hopefully seek long term engagement and support for what will be a long term winter project. Some will think my approach is a bit well expensive, I guess it is, but for ease, convenience and the opportunity to learn I’ve gone this route. While in the UK for the Taffia FnC run I placed an order with CC for delivery to the in-laws for a complete new Titan diff. I know expensive! Now I don’t believe my Titan has any immediate issues, well no more than it ever had. The current and original diff has done ~4500miles and will clock up the best part of ~5000 total miles by the time I’m back to the IOM. I figured with all the discussions about the Titan diff I’m getting close to a period of potential concern and risk. If so, having confidence the diff is right is important, especially if enjoying the IOM liberal speed limits. The 420R still hasn't seen a circuit, but it's seen high speeds. I appreciate I could just remove the diff, check it, and ship it for a rebuild if required. Shipping heavy stuff on and off the IOM is an expensive PITA, and fraught with the potential for damage and loss. Hence placing the order for a new one while in the UK, one which I can collect. More than that though is having the opportunity to have a spare while rebuilding the first. This makes the whole process less stressful and gives me a real opportunity to learn at a leisurely pace. Over the winter I plan to disassemble the rear of the car, remove the diff, drive shafts and prop shaft plus all the other components which need to come off for easy access. I'll thoroughly check the shafts etc, and refit with the new diff. This places no time pressure to rebuild with the original diff, so I can still enjoy the car while attempting to expand my understanding. I hope to learn more about the diff, spotting signs of poor wear from within by performing some basic dismantling. If it needs to go away then I can when I have time etc. I'm convinced there's a plethora of lowly skilled owners out there in the same boat as me, with aging Titan (sintered plate) diffs all wondering how bad is bad. Of course this will make good content for my blog, which has always attempted to cover the build and challenges of ownership from the less technically competent side. There's loads of blogs out there with content that is far superior (technically) to my own. Bringing the experience from my position on the learning curve I'm sure will be beneficial to many others. Of course I'll keep posting here with updates and the inevitable queries, a sort of (re)build thread. I hope this will be of interest to you all, especially those I hope will provide input and expertise along the way. PS If anyone get recommend good reading material on diffs (installs, tolerances etc etc). I won't be starting until November, so have a month or so to learn what I can.

As I was leaving Heysham this lunchtime 15th Sept, two Sevens were heading toward the ferry. Both gave a solid wave, just wondering if club members?

Thanks Geoff. Will get one picked up this week, I might try and pick up some oil too, given delivery to the IOM from Opie is ridiculous, although that said I was planning to try the secret blend from RRT. I'm surprised about the diff plate, I was expecting to need some butchery (as you say) to clear the De dion.

Hi, Just a quick bit of adivce required. While in the UK this week I'm looking to pick up a magnetic sump plug for my Titan diff, as recommended in Geoff's maintenance guide. Would this item be OK? assuming I select AP-22 https://www.demon-tweeks.com/eu/gold-plug-magnetic-sump-drain-plug-907843/ Thanks

These things are awesome, though you might want to consider a smaller set. https://www.caterham7diaries.com/post/go-jak-go-go-go

Well I've been arsing around with it all day. While trying to remove the dam thing I've actually got a much better fit, so reinserted the white plastic collar, and hey presto, a dam good feel. There's zero movement while seated, and only the smallest deflection if you stand out of the car and put pressure on top of the wheel, pushing straight down. You can't see the movement, just slightly feel it. So fair outcome. I think I'll leave the new one until the car is off the road during the winter. Thanks for the advice though, plenty of options to try.

Hi, I've been doing some last minute fettling before we leave for the UK mid-week. One of the things I was never happy with from my build was the fitment of the top steering bush. The install didn't go that well and after some effort I did succeed but there was always the sense of too much play. When I got the 620, CC had done a sterling job on that car, with zero play, so I had a good comparison of what is possible. I've got two new bushes on order, should be here Monday. So today I decided to try and remove the bush. I've got the white sleeve out with ease, but the bush is in there solid. Having removed the steering column and sprayed with silicon lube I've tried knocking it down with a suitable socket, but its only producing small movement and seems a little brutal. I guess I could drop an hacksaw blade through, and link back up, then cut metal sleeve etc. Thought I'd ask first. Thanks

Hi Simon, Thanks for the response, it would be fantastic if you could make every effort to obtain a date for Oulton. If I understand you correctly, your process is to seek availability from all circuits, pencil dates in, and then approach the leadership team with the information from those circuits that provide dates and availability. Does the leadership team typically select a sub-set of circuits and dates, or does the filtering happen before then? thanks

My query was also about understanding how tracks are selected, and how club members can contribute to that process.

Cheers Neil. I didn't want to over tighten the hanger to chassis nut as I wanted the rubber washer id inserted between to at least have some chance of helping reduce vibration, so thought a spring washer plus the nyloc was a safe bet.

Final result., loads of clearance now. Car is currently cooling in the garage, ran out of time before tea, assuming its all good but will check for leaks later. I also used a small OD rubber washer and nylon washer between the bobbin and hanger just to try and suppress (reduce) any vibration. It was a bit of a pig to get central on the bobbins, but eventually got there.

This the end result, all being loose. So the hole into which the radiator bobbin goes (below) is in exactly the same location.

Hi JV, The radiator (should - not hung it yet) be in exactly the same location. I've drilled a hole lower down in the bracket and chassis, and then cut the old hole / top off. The 12mm or so of the old bracket is what's I've gained in terms of clearance with the inlet port.

It's a different design, the upper port is on the driver's side. Part number is different too, 30C086E

Will repost in the Track section, thanks

and the hanger, painted. Chassis is also painted too.

Well I did it this afternoon, cut the bracket down, gained approximately 12mm in clearance,

Either way, wings are still going strong at 4500+ miles, better than the rad

In my kit CC sent TEROSON MS9220, the wings are still on nice and strong.

Hi, As per the title, could I ask how the selection is made, and additionally is it possible to request locations or promote circuits etc? I would like to see a date at Oulton in 2022. Thanks Mark

Hi David, please let us know how you get on, I'm thinking I should have one fitted to my 620. Can anyone contribute from experience which cage is the better etc?

First of what will be a couple of blog posts is now available. https://www.caterham7diaries.com/post/taffia-2021-prep-goes-wrong

I use this, absolutely brilliant along with most things from the company. https://gyeonquartz.com/product/preserve/