CtrMint

Hi, We've been working on the MBE9A4, it's fitted to the 420, albeit in a locked state. I do have the code in it's current rather scruffy form on Github, https://github.com/ctrmint/7talk. It really does need improving though The dependency which is an issue is the device module for the canbus device ( i think). I've had a couple of goes and recompiling it, but ended up with the new kernel device driver signing protection getting in the way. I've just not had the chance to deal with that. Any solution needs to ensure the compiled module can be safely shared. I guess some cert infrastructure needs to be considered.

Hey John, So I did dig out the project in the summer, and tried to find time for it, but to be honest I struggled. I've not really moved forward. There's a couple of factors that are influencing my view of whether to take my fork forward. Linux dependencies, particularly on Raspbian (I'm still focussing my efforts on a Pi and Python), I'm having to run a fairly old distro, which isn't good in the long run. Lack of flow control, my intention was to build a dash and logger separately, both of which are prototyped, I intended to capture my logs to SSD in real time then push to big data and run ML across them. See if I can't gain a unique insight. Given the effort I didn't want to build a Caterham MBE centric solution, but I'm not sure if it's worth the effort to build a modular flexible framework capable of supporting CANBus compliant ECUs. I'm tempted to just rip out the ECU and put a proper CANBus compliant ECU in. I'm sure there are other benefits in a different ECU. Coming up with a production ready design for a screen was also a factor, again compatibility with commerical screens which support correct CANBus etc.Lots of to do,.... I'm afraid.

In all seriousness, I think I'll just cut down the top of the hanger to increase the gap. As it's been said earlier in the post, it's not possible to raise the rad due to clearance on the nose cone. Of course I might be able to obtain a greater horizontal gap with a new rad Long term, I like the idea of taking the upright section of the chassis mount clean off, and then placing a 90 degree mount underneath, their with a weld or drilling a vertical hole through an bolt etc. That design would require very careful measurement and consideration as the proximity to the front ARB bush is also very close.

Me and welding there's a thought the mind boggles.

I'm making appropriate progress with CC, I've now a _chance_ of getting the 420R back on the road in time for the Taffia. We've had a productive conversation, and while we don't have agreement with respect to the design, I am happy that CC are listening and being very respectful and responsive to my point of view. I really can't fault them for that. I've also had a long think about my view of the car, particularly how anal I am with detailing and keeping it mint (check my Instagram). After considering the potential life span over the next 10 years max, and that i won't sell it with any meaningful value, I've decided to start modifying the car, something I really wanted to avoid, I wanted to ensure it remained 'factory' at all costs. That view seems to conflict with the practicalities of ownership, and if I'm going get the max from my ownership, I should just accept mods are needed. Thus I've been up to Screwfix and purchased a new Dremel and various cutting disks, I'm going to carefully cut the corner off the mount where the contact occurs. I know many of you suggested this, but it just wasn't something I was prepared to do until now. PS, before someone says it, I do have a grinder, but its a bit of a dangerous weapon in my hands, a dremel is more me ;-)

Hi Stu, There's no contact where you marked in red, i.e. the rear of the bolt head. The contact occurs at the top of the bracket, it hits the inlet pipe on the rad. There's also contact between the hose and top of the hanger. Based on the number of people that have messaged me over Instagram, either we're all doing something wrong, or there is a real quality issue here. Either the design or the rads.

honestly, I just can't be arsed. I've had the patience of a saint while 59K depreciates in the garage tied up in an unused 620R, now need to go through more cr@p. It's just a joke, one which keeps my peers very much amused.

If you take a look at the first post, second image you'll see the bobbin is trapped between the ali bracket and hanger, so has no capacity to flex, and certainly wouldn't if I torqued it up so much that it held the radiator in position should I open up the ali mounts to increase the mounting height.

I've tried the adjustment, I can't get sufficient travel to clear the inlet. I think its more height I need so cutting the bottom of the elongated mounting hole so it can be lifted is more likely to be successful. However, if I do that, I'll need to torque up the bobbins really tight so they support the radiator, which will of course reduce their dampening effect. I've made this argument to Caterham today, and I'm awaiting a response. The only other option is to add a spacer/insert onto the bolt so that it's raised on the ali edge. I've bought a load of rubber hardware to trial and error this, but it's going to take time and the real disappointment is missing the Taffia run, two Caterhams off the road. I'm also waiting for clarification on the warranty claim. Oh interesting I'd been posting on Instagram ( https://www.instagram.com/caterham7diaries/ )all weekend about my prep work for the Taffia, the car looked stunning by the end. Of course the last image was the failed radiator. The amount of direct messages I've had as a result from people with similar issues is bloody alarming.

For a couple reasons I've opened dialogue with Caterham on this. The main reason is what I feel is the unavoidable scenario which has occurred. Only after repeated failures have I been able to learn and consider that something is amiss. I'm not an experienced mechanic, mechanical engineer, and so predicting this failure mode was outside the scope of basically fitting the radiator with the supplied hardware. My car also seems to have little adjustment and subsequent clearance, I suspect due to the holes in the radiator bracket, either way reaching a conclusion to cut down the hanger was never a consideration. If the part was say £200 I'd probably chalk it up to experience, but over £600 plus shipping to the IOM, we're something completely different.

Interesting point, I'll ask Chris to measure the width of his. My hanger has a width of 20mm,

I do wonder whether the 420R race nose cone is actually the fix here. Correct me if I'm wrong but it has more space underneath, thus permitting spacing, and vibration damping on the mounts etc.

I been in a slackened everything, I can get maybe an additional 1mm of movement, you can just see light between the bracket and top port, but not much, and there is nowhere near enough to get the hose on. I've also had a play with looking at ways to space out things to try and buy enough clearance, I just can't see a solution that works. If the holes in the radiator ali bracket are moved lower, it would lift the radiator up, and gain clearance but I suspect risk hitting the nose. Spacing the bobbins or hanger forward doesn't work either. As far as I can see the only way to resolve it is to grind the hanger down and increase the gap

Yes John you are correct. I was originally shipped the 'newer' radiator without the drop hangers, which ended up with zero chance of fitting the nose. My original blog with an image is here. https://www.caterham7diaries.com/post/what-a-load-of-bobbins Though curiously I now think I still have an interference between the inlet and the hanger, which is increasing vibration and resulting in premature failure.

Chris, Do you have a pic of the bracket from the other side? I'd like to send to CC, see what their view is.

Thanks Chris, the fact you don't have any interference is certainly helpful and likely supportive of why I'm experiencing repeated failures. There's no adjustment possible, due to the alignment of the 90 degree elbow and bolt holes. I'm back to the frustration of my original build. .

Did you source an alternative hose then? My mounts are actually just touching the ali port on the rad, I take it yours are well clear then? I've started another thread which shows the images

The solid connection is the hanger for the bobbin, I'l post a video to help.

Hi Chris, Your part code is the same as mine, though it doesn't appear on the CC parts site. Out of interest how much clearance did you have between the top hanger and top hose/port? Thanks

I understand the design is used to pull the rad closer to the chassis or rather further up the nose cone, given the nose cone narrows the closer it gets to the grill. If I were to rotate the hanger, I'd be pushing the radiator further down the nose cone, I guess by the length of the horizontal offset in the hanger.

Hi All, As per my post on 7Up's thread my radiator has also failed, this is the 2nd in a total of 4500 miles, they seem to be doing approximately 2000 miles between failures. Although that's a sample of 2, my original replacement rad from the build was also dodgy, so possibly 3. I've checked the radiator this morning and it's failed in the same position very top passenger side vane in against the end tank. There is a pattern here, and I'm wondering if there is a design flaw which goes back to my original kit etc. When I was sent my kit what I understand is the revised radiator wouldn't fit under my nose cone, not by millimeters, but by centimeters. Caterham eventually stated they'd switched radiator designs and sent me a new rad and additional hanger (see image). The new radiator design is still mounted using bobbins, but the hanger for the top bobbin is solidly mounted, and well look at the images for proximity to the top hose and the point of failure. There is actual contact between the hanger and top hose. Based on comments from the 7Up's thread, I checked for vibration, and yes there's a notable resonance in the rad at tick over which disappears once the engine spins up. So I'm left considering if CC inadvertently missed something with the new hangers? I'm no mechanical engineer, but surely this is a smoking gun? The point of the solid mount, is the point of repeated failures. Has anyone else got a 420R S3 late 2018, which has similar hangers? I'm trying to attend the Taffia so will need to source a replacement radiator, but at £600 (CC Parts) per 2000 miles this is just silly. I need to come up with a solution/improvement to resolve this interference while maintaining fitment under the nose. The club has always been an invaluable source of information and support, hope you can all assist. Thanks Mark

I'm going to start another thread on this, as I seem to be going in a different direction now. Hope you can contribute still.

As for rad weld etc... forgive my ignorance here, if we were talking a thousand pound shed/run around I wouldn't hesitate putting it in. This is of course my 420 engine, will there be any long term effects to the engine and ancillaries when added. Reduced cooling, an accumulation of residue anywhere, that sort of stuff? Like I say, I'm completely ignorant to this stuff.

it's certainly not the biggest of leaks. I left a piece of paper under the corner all night and this is the result.