BenF
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Everything posted by BenF
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I'm with Scott on this. The primary factor for an oil working well in a particular application is its grade and if you pick the right one, the difference in engine wear should be minimal over the course of its life. Modern engines are expected to do well in excess of 100k miles in their lifetime and most 7s will get nowhere near that mileage, so it is not clear if long-term wear is anyway an issue for 7s.
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DIY Guide: Sump Guard for CSR (and possibly other metric Series 3 cars)
BenF replied to Shortshift's topic in TechTalk
I don't think you can ever expect to have a solution which will protect the sump from all potential impacts - without risking damaging the chassis. I'm all for something like builder's foam - I'm going to ask at work next week as we have a few materials specialists there. Would there be interest in a bulk buy for this? I think the wedge and the skid plate itself could be common across lots of cars, but that the mounting plate will have to be drilled differently for each model. Happy to investigate if there is interest - I've benefited from lots of Bulk Buys in the past here -
Thanks guys.
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DIY Guide: Sump Guard for CSR (and possibly other metric Series 3 cars)
BenF replied to Shortshift's topic in TechTalk
Just wondering if there is any more feedback on this idea, now that people have run this solution for a while? Am planning on doing something similar for my car. -
YHM
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Hello, I've been out in my new car (CSR 200) and one thing I notice is that the idle is quite high, at about 1300rpm, plus sometimes, for example when restarting after a very short break, that on starting, the engine speed hunts around a bit, going up to 2000rpm before settling at idle speed. Is this a case of TADTS or something to investigate? I feel with the higher idle, there is not as much engine braking as I expected. Ben
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I agree with Jonathan. Certainly if you are selling within the club and people know you're a serious enthusiast and you have a record of maintenance you've done yourself, should not be a problem. I guess selling on Pistonheads or to a dealer could be different, they might look at the lack of an official service history as a negative, but 7s tend to sell on condition more than anything else. It's pretty clear when a 7 has been looked after - whether high or low mileage.
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Hi Neil, I am pretty sure you sit lower and can have more distance to the pedals with Tilletts - that was my experience. You might want to consider Tilletts and lowered floors - I think there are very few people who would not find this better.
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But with car parts, you should be able to get good money for it as metal scrap? I remember Peter (6speedmanual) had a big pile of old car bits from various projects on his drive which he was going to get some good money for.
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John, have you tried putting them on one of the online platforms for giving stuff away? e.g. Freegle, Nextdoor and Freecycle. I've been using eBay Classifieds here in Germany to dispose of things I don't need rather than taking them to the tip and things nearly always go - it just takes time.
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Hi Brett, I would think it's best just to put the car on the ground and do things based on the sump clearance / ride height as mentioned above. Also, I remember a rule of thumb which was that it should be possible to roll a wine bottle under the sump and that was a good ground clearance. This works out at 75mm, but the advice was given by someone who was quite aggressive with running the car low, so 90mm sounds good.
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The open wheel nuts are lighter as well, I forget how much you save but I weighed them when changing mine and it was more than you might think.
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If my old Goodfabs exhaust is still available, here /forum/sale/sale-k-series-goodfabs-silencer-and-cat-bypass This could be an option - I think it should fit on to an R400 as well as an R300. The exhaust contains a cat and can be repacked. I am not sure what the noise level will be, but it was definitely quieter than the old standard exhaust with cat bypass.
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Thanks for all the feedback, was travelling the last week and not really on here. Alan's comment about oil use: 5 litres per 1000 miles seems very high! Sounds like it is particularly important to keep an eye on this.
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Lots of 13" minilites for sale at the moment, may be worth buying a set just in case. Should be easy to sell on if you don't use them. This means sticking with narrow rears but I found in pure cornering a 7 is better balanced that way.
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I hope one day I get to see my old 7 again! It was one of the best experiences of my life, that car!
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Also just to say, this is what partly attracted me to 7 ownership in the first place, that BC is such a useful source of info and there is so much support within the club
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Yes thanks a lot Mike, brilliant! Going to slicks does tend to increase grip a lot (depending on compound, approx 15-20%) with the loads also increasing correspondingly, so this might explain the increase suspension bush wear. All this talk has got me itching to get one, just need to get now back to the UK and start looking. BTW, if anyone knows any of the CSRs currently on Pistonheads (or is selling one of them - most seem to be through dealers), would be interested to hear from you (PM me).
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Chris, is the heat from the pedalbox not more from radiation from the exhaust? Difficult to tell from the photos, it looks like you have some heat wrap on the primaries, but is it worth investigating having more insulation there. I remember with my K-series with the exhaust on the other side, the soles of passengers's shoes would melt due to the heat from the exhaust but on the driver's side it was not too bad.
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Hi David, so how are people greasing their propshaft then? Removing and replacing the blanking plate each time?
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Thanks, that is a very interesting thread. Good to know.
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Thanks for all that advice! There is nothing there which really worries me, all these kind of problems are pretty much what I would expect to deal with. IIRC there were three models: CSR200, 230 and 260. It seems like you mainly see the 200 and 260, but I am pretty sure the 230 exists. Will just have to keep an eye out, will only be back in March, David Barfoot's car did look great but looks like UK Sports Cars have already sold it (sent them a mail and never got a reply)
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Hi David, Is there anything specific to look for when buying a CSR? I know we have a general 7 buying guide on here, but I have not seen any advice on specific things you might look for - i.e. known problem areas where you'd want to specifically check. IIRC from years ago on BC, oil level was supposed to be very critical on CSRs and it was important to keep them topped up and allow a bit of oil to go into the catch tank - rather than having the level too low. Have not heard of any specific problems though, i.e. in the way people used to focus on some areas with other 7s, .e.g HGFs with K-series, de Dion ears, chassis corrosion 94-99 etc. Not at all afraid of spending good money on maintenance but would like to avoid something with a big bill clearly coming.
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Thanks David!
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Hello, Apart from usual servicing, just wondering when the CSR engines (200/230/260) require a refresh. I know that with some of the other highly tuned engines, like the original R500K, a refresh is on the cars with significant mileage. What are people's experience with the CSR and who have people use for any heavier maintenance work? Just wondering as there are a few CSRs available at the moment with 30k+ miles and wondering if buying one of these cars means expecting some engine work in the near future. Ben
