BenF
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Everything posted by BenF
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Oh no Pete! Looks like you need an easy-out to get that out now. With regards to the 7Nm, SamC recommended that, I assume it's from the build manual, but also with the Loctite I assume it will not loosen off. My torque wrench only goes down to 8Nm and was too large to use, so I practiced on feeling what 8Nm was like and just nipped the bolts up with a normal ratchet.
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No assembly lube, all dry fitted.
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Trident Racing Supplies are good for fasteners. In terms of order of disassembly, I undid the damper bolt first and then let the upright rest on a block of wood, slightly in droop. I don't think it matters too much which order you disassemble the rest. I think it's worth loosening off the big nut on the stud and seeing if the taper easily splits and then go from there. Once the bracket was removed, I looped some cable ties through the holes on the upright (where the camber shims are) and then through the wishbone rod end, to hold the upright in the correct position (effectively doing the job of the missing bracket) so that the upright does not just flop over as it's no longer supported on top.
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Hi Nick, I check mine by topping up around 200ml at a time, then driving the car and checking the catch tank. Then keep on adding small amounts of oil until some oil is deposited in the catch tank. Regards Ben
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Aside from the objections/comments above, Is a straight cut gearbox really a good idea for road use? Surely far too noisy
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Put mine on today. I believe the bolts are M6, I got new ones from Trident this week. Only problems I had were: wishbone joint needed a bearing splitter to get it off the taper, plus the new bolts from TL have a slightly larger diameter shank and I had to smooth the inside surface of the damper eyelet so that it would pass through (but a very nice fit once done). The brackets are not handed. If I have understood correctly, the cap head should be pressing against the expanding collet. This means that the cap head of the damper bolt should be facing forward on the LHS and rearward on the RHS.
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Any photos? Don't need another CSR but your car sounds great! If you use Turn 7, you must be up north somewhere?
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Nice to see markiebabes on here, thought you'd disappeared completely!
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Took off mine today, they are in remarkably good condition but will replace with the TL mounts.
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Hi David, It should be a straightforward job (will start it today), except that getting the stud out of the old bracket is not easy (requires a lot of strength and possibly heat), so I will get help to remove this, once the old brackets are off the car. The stud needs to be mounted in the new bracket with high strength loctite. I will also replace the mounting bolts while I am at it, just as it makes sense to do so. I have limited faith in any garage to do this work, so would rather do it myself, but with the appropriate help/advice of people who know better than me (like SamC). Regards Ben
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There is a precedent for this, in that there were failures of DeDion tubes on conventional chassis, which was followed by an updated design. The damper mount on the tube would peel away from the tube itself (possibly still documented on BC somewhere). I have no idea what the legal situation is, in terms of a design being fit for purpose. Those of us on BC are made aware of these problems and can take action. CSR owners who are not on BC could be blissfully unaware of this problem.
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I bought some from Luke a couple of weeks ago. I think there is sometimes a delay in replying if they are busy with racing. There was a slight delay in getting the parts dispatched, because he was having the spacers machined. The parts certainly look great, I'm planning on fitting them in this next week.
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When I had this problem, it was because the connector to the gauge itself was loose. Pressing on the back of the connector would result in a stable reading. I solved the problem by bending the terminals on the back of the gauge out slightly, so there were a stronger contact between them and the connector.
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Great. Sorted, got it split with a bit more effort
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Hello, I need to repack my CSR200's silencer. I bought packing material but having removed it from the car this evening, I am not sure it is repackable. It has six button head bolts at the inlet end, which I have removed. I assumed that the outer is an interference fit with the end cap at the exhaust end. However, despite my best efforts with a big mallet, it shows no sign of moving at all and using brute force is going to damage it. The exhaust is not the original one, based on the sticker on it (car is from 2005, exhaust from 2008). Is this actually not repackable?
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Why would that be bad for the engine? As long as the resulting oil has a suitable viscosity to retain the correct pressure profile within the bearings (from a tribology point of view) I can's see that being a problem. If you mix two oils, both of which are suitable for the engine, then I don't see any problem with this. When you drain the oil and change to a different grade, there is always going to be 100-200ml of the old grade left in the engine somewhere and nobody worries about that.
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David, if you look at my photo in post 11 - this was taken by getting on the floor and looking up at the bracket from behind the car. Pretty easy to see the condition at least of the rearward part of the clevis. I've bought the Team Leos brackets and will fit them in the near future.
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Interesting feedback. Thanks for the info Simon. I'll catch up with SamC tomorrow about this. I wonder if as a matter of course, all CSR owners should be changing their mounts for the Team Leos ones. I have been checking mine this weekend as was blatting around Wales, so far nothing suspicious. Difficult to see the forward part of the clevis, but from the rear: Not sure what spec this is, it's on a 2005 CSR200 but looks in reasonable condition. Would be interesting to compare to other CSRs out there, if people are taking photos...
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Gareth, sorry to hear that but a lucky escape. SamC also noticed cracked damper mounts when he rebuilt his CSR this winter. What mileage is your car? Do you have any photos of the failure?
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Pete, I'd consider getting it flat floored at a specialist while you're at it. Otherwise you've no idea if you've got any cross weight in the car (unless you have some corner weight scales of course).
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Beagler, why are you taking such an odd attitude? Presumably, you spoke to Northampton Motorsport and they said that yes, with the mapping they can move the power curve lower down for road use. People on here are questioning this - which is fair. Has there been a misunderstanding about what is possible from a mapping session? Or are you upset because people suggested a cheaper option, i.e. using Steve Greenald, which will save you the cost of a new ECU (560 quid + VAT if I remember correctly)? Don't you think that such a suggestion might actually be helpful?
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James, you are absolutely right. The fact that Steve Greenald can remap without you having to buy a new ECU does make it attractive. I had a session booked with Northampton Motorsport for my CSR but ended up cancelling it because the car runs fine, except when cold - and even managed to pass the MoT legitimately. The cost of the session, plus an extra 600 pounds for the ECU, meant that is was going to be an expensive box ticking exercise. My understanding is that the generic map they put in Sigmas is not very good so I guess that's where the gain will come from. I assumed that was more top end but maybe also lower down - could someone who's had their Sigma remapped can confirm this?
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Great! Northampton Motorsport are very good. I'm guessing there is a bit of a wait for the rolling road - I know this is their busy time.
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On this topic, I have put together a spreadsheet of all tools required for my CSR, for basic breakdown tasks. It would be good to have this as a shareable Excel file with others able to add sheets for different specs of 7. Any idea how we might do this best?
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Ah right, makes sense. Went for a blat yesterday but aborted because I'd presumably not done the grub screw up tight enough, as the play had reappeared. Reassembled now and moved to a fresh part of the column and with the grub screw and locknut tightened some more, seems better and Loctite'd in place, just want to get a paint marker to mark the position of all the bolts and then will try again.
