BenF
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Everything posted by BenF
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Agreed Scott. There are some very good small engineering companies (like AS Pro Engineering) who will design components for you for specific purposes, but for a one-off it does not make sense - only makes sense if the cost is spread amongst a much larger number, e.g. 20 participants.
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Seeing as the flange on the duct looks a bit odd (from an engineering eye), would it not be better to trim the flange off, mount the duct to the pedal box and have it mating to the inner surface of the bonnet with some kind of seal? This would look more like an engineering solution. However might be fiddly and prone to damage when fitting and removing the bonnet.
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Hi Chris, I've never seen a NACA duct installed that way around before, but fair enough. Is the aim then to not have the cover on the top of the pedalbox? I remember discussing this with a colleague when I had my 7 about 10 years ago. From his background in making racing cars get reliably to the finish, he thought the best solution to heat problems was to just gold foil all areas adjacent to the engine bay. However I did not have gold foil to hand and anyway it would have meant disassembling the car. BTW, I note you've got a very nice solution for stopping brake fluid drips from your reservoir. Edit - I now see there's a separate thread for this topic as well, sorry only saw that now!
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Surely the NACA duct is facing in the wrong direction compared to the airflow? Unless you just want cooling when driving in reverse?
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If only Cannonball Bob was still on BC! (for those who remember him...)
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I think this is from my old car (blue R300 reg XXXX GVN) Goodfabs, along with Primary Designs, are the best in the business for this kind of motorsport stuff.
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Simon, any chance of posting a link to some photos? Not quite what I am looking for but sounds amazing.
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Thanks David. Sorry for my ignorance! -
Hi David, Does the car have lowered floors? (edit: from one of the pics on UK Sports Cars, it looks like it does have lowered floors?) When was the cam belt last changed? Should be every 6 years according to schedule? Ben
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Enjoy my old car!
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I would love to have it back, but it would be near impossible to register here in Germany! I think the R300 and R400 Ks are the best of all the 7s...
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Nice car.... in fact I owned it from 2009 to 2014! It still looks great from the photos Lee, sorry that you have to sell it.
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Tom, I can't drive it legally on the road here in Germany in Dec/Jan/Feb because it is on seasonal plates. Even if it was on full time plates, there is the problem of lack of winter tyres. Below 7degC you are not necessarily covered by your insurance here if you are on summer tyres. The risk of something happening is slim of course, but it's a bit of a silly risk to take.
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Hi Jonathan, Yes, you're right, I should ask on a Porsche forum, I instinctively ask on here first because I am already a member on here and also because I know people on here and therefore there is more of a trust in people's opinions! Ben
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Thanks Jonathan, I don't think the solar-powered option is feasible, I don't particularly want to drill a hole in the garage roof, especially as it's not my garage. The best option may be just to disconnect the battery for the winter, I just need to ask Porsche if there are any downsides to this (in terms of saved settings which will be lost). If you leave a car on idle until it is properly hot, e.g. for 20mins, I still don't see the potential for damage, but that seems to be the consensus....
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This thread reminds me of my upcoming problem this winter, which is having a Porsche Cayman which will be stored in a single garage with no power from the end of November to beginning of March. Not sure what to do to prevent the battery going flat. I don't really want to disconnect it, I would rather keep it charged. Does anyone know of a decent portable battery charging solution? A quick look on the net just brings up lots of CTEK charger stuff, which only works with mains power.
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Paul, Once you've finished with the bonnet, you should follow Ron Dennis' example and have the gravel washed on your driveway once a year. Ben
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Stu's explanation of the downsides of a half hood is spot-on, however I would add that these problems only become an annoyance when you have medium to heavy rain for a longer period, e.g. a few hours. With shorter downpours, things tend to dry out quite quickly, especially if you put the heater on. If you do go for the half hood only, then it's worth getting dry bags from Aldi or Lidl. I did have one day of touring in France where it really poured down the whole day and by the end, some of my luggage was quite damp as with the half hood, there is inevitably some water which gets in where the tonneau meets the roll bar struts.
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FYI, Honda share wheel geometries with Rover, so when I needed winter tyres for my 2006 Jazz, I bought some old Rover 25 steel wheels off eBay for next to nothing and then fitted winter tyres to them.
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If you fit a new switch, then clean the contacts of the old one as per SM25T's instructions and keep as a spare, you are covered for the future. Over 5 years of ownership, I had the switch 'fail' 3 or 4 times and it was a quick and easy roadside fix with the spare in my toolkit, usually pointed out by other blatters. I stretched the spring a little when I reassembled mine, so that the contacts inside the switch opened more cleanly. I thought that this might reduce the arcing across the switch which seems to cause the build of of residue. However, difficult to judge based on a sample size of 1 and my subjective judgement...
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BTTT. Pistonheads advert no longer there.... so sold?
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Looks incredible, if only I was living in the UK...
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Hi Robert, I tried exactly what you proposed a few years back with my R300. I removed spacers from the runners but then the lowest part of the seat - which is in the very middle of the seat - then touched the floor. With the spacers which my car came with, there was probably only about 1mm clearance between the bottom of the seat and the floor. However, a club member then suggested the tilting method (as Chris) and this was a small improvement. Regards, Ben
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Guys... thanks for all the replies My first step is to give the screen a good clean and clay bar, then I will look at using some toothpaste on a small area. I always thought that it was mainly 7 screens that got peppered with tiny chips, it has been a learning experience to find the same happens on a Porsche....
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Hello all, On my first blat of the year this weekend, I noticed in the direct sun, how my windscreen is peppered with tiny chips - the kind which don't cause any crack but make visibility worse. Now this is on a Cayman rather than a 7, but I saw similar problem with 7s and wondered if anyone had any luck doing some light polishing. My plan was to clean the windscreen and then use a clay bar to get rid of anything stuck to it, not sure whether I can do anything else for it. Any tips? Ben
