Brightonuk

May not help the UK crew but If any of you are considering a shift light I am using one of these cost me $163 bucks + Shipping https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=10298 The Shift light works great but.... if you are considering getting one go to this site https://www.superbikeunlimited.com/1623-pzracing-lightronic-universal-shift-light-indicator.html?search=shift%20light&category_id=0 And pick up the exact same Shift Light for $70. In addition ask them to ship it USPS before you buy and save on the FedEx shipping cost they quoted me $12 for the USPS option as opposed to 20 bucks FedEx

I was thinking these would work well https://www.google.com/search?q=push+nut&rlz=1C1CHZL_enUS760US760&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiIuOzk27PeAhUl11kKHVvwBOcQ_AUIDygC

The hight is deceiving I can raise it up to 2' if needed,. as for access to the engine bay is is obstructed but a small modification to the jack will solve that issue. The footprint is the width of the car but slide out the crossbeam (retained by a Pin) and it is not much bigger than a floor jack.

Well look like my evil plan worked seems stable and has locks to prevent the cradle from falling if the hydraulics fail. So I feel kinda safe but will stick a couple of jacks under just in case. Room directly under the engine is obstructed but a bit of modification to the jack should fix that. The jack weighs in at 100lbs but once assembled moves around fine This makes getting under the car a breeze and for 200 bucks works for me

Mine does not have wide track and the width is OK The difference is not just $219 + another 20% off coupon making it an inviting $175 vs $1500 but the and the head room in the garage and the WAF the latter being the most important. This just seemed a good idea to lift the car as much as I needed over the traditional low profile jack and stands

I posted this on Pistonheads as well as it is my nut under the car Looking for something to lift the car enough so I can actually get under it Will this support the front end of a superlite with a Zetec it states 750lbs max weight https://www.harborfreight.com/750-lbs-heavy-duty-atvmower-high-lift-jack-63298.html Looks like a good idea in my head but not if the car drops on said head Heavy duty hydraulic pump lifts up to 750 lbs. to a max height of 23 in. Five position wheel width adjustment 30 in. to 56 in. wide

Messed up a post and could not delete it. But thanks for letting me know im am interesting enough that people check my * posts

Tried AV gas and disastrous results it is for AvGas is blended for large-bore, long-stroke, low RPM engines Air boats running V8s use it all the time here in Fl The engine would not even start on AV

Yep talked to the brush Thanks

Sorted with Tony thanks The issue with the paint is this is what I am trying to get to But they cant seem to get the color right I called Tony the brush hopefully he can send me the paint and the shop can shoot it

So Johnathan a waste of money? As for the paint I Googled TSK and it comes up a tiny little MOT place any contact email?

Two totally separate questions 1st one As you may have read in my previous rants I had a horrendously bad respray on the car and so it needs redoing It is now becoming a rather expensive undertaking so I have to get it right this time round. I want a Firecracker yellow but the paint shop cant seem to get the mix correct I have the paint code from Caterham but unfortunately is is not working out.(just looks to mustard) Please do not say "just find another paint shop" as in Florida a good one is hard to find and this one does excellent work and I trust them to do the job right. Can anyone enlighten me as to who Caterham sub contracts the painting of their cars? As I was hoping to get a quart, pint or even better enough to paint the complete car from them in a Fire Cracker Yellow? #2 In Florida a new (to Florida) petrol company has started to spring up WAWA dunno who came up with the name and although the best octane is still only 93 they offer an "Ethanol free gas" that is more expensive. My car runs on 100 octane I am going to use pump gas and an octane booster. (100 Octane is 11 bucks a gallon and only available at the track) Is there a + to using "Ethanol free gas? (I have a high compression Zetec 2.0)

Not sure, the claim reduces is surrounding temperatures by up to 65%, protect from thermal oxidation, galvanic corrosion and the ability to withstand 1250°F. But as they say talk is cheap

As I am going for the polished SS look on the silencer I needed to try to polish the exhaust pipe up. Here is the starting point I spent a good couple of hours trying different ways to bring it up to a shine, Here is the result was after 400/600/1000 wet and dry And a couple more hours using different polishing compounds not bad but no where near the "polished look" I was hoping for . So I researched Ceramic coatings and found a company called Jet Hot sent it off and a week later..... I am very Happy with the outcome It got me the look close to polished SS and time will tell if this stuff holds up.

Thanks Tony P

I relocated the battery cut off switch to the drivers side (left hand) issue is the cut off switch will not allow the knee trim panel to sit flush. I purchased the Knee trim Panel "No gusset" as this is the only option available Is there a panel that accounts for the cut off switch or do I need to cut/modify the one I have?

Eastwood is pretty good I have used some of their products but I think to do this right you need to buy the best available and do not make the mistakes I made. That way do it once and done. I think Jim 123 had a good product http://http://tech-info.glasurit.com/en_UK/Spezialverfahren/Carbon_fiber_transparent.pdf

Ya you right OK it really really....very hot and 100% humidity (-: and im at that stage in life where I don't wanna be sweating my nuts off sitting in a car the size of a matchbox stuck in traffic. So I have three choices 1) Get the AC option, 2) Sell the Cat and go back to driving the tin top 3) Sell the Cat move back home to the UK and buy another one

Amazon Link 12 bucks was a bargain compared to the cost of a new CF dash https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043B7UQY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Heres a short video of the stuff being applied by a pro

As I have a superlite I do not have a heater so loads of room in the engine bay. I figure house the pump inverter and any other hardware in the boot but a 12v 60amp AC compressor maybe to much for the small cat battery This place is just down the road from me they quoted a ballpark $2k installed Not having AC in Florida is like driving in Scotland mid December with the top down and no heater.

So the result I could not source the Glasurit that Jim suggested but found this alternative that requires a hardener (which is in the can but has to be activated) I was originally going to try to mask the dials and switches but ended up removing everything and sanding the dash with 1000 grit wet n dry After 18 years there was not much lacquer left on the dash so I did not need to be too aggressive Here is before: Sanded Taped and ready I gave it three coats and of course due to my inexperience went too heavy on the first causing runs in a couple of places not terrible but would not pass a Ford QC. Another step I did not do due to my impatiences to finish the job was to sand between coats I think it would have provided a much better finish. Anyway here is the result not perfect but an improvement over the original I also did some test sprays on the tip of the nose which was in a terrible state (see the previous post on "a crap respray" for the full SP) Before Here it is after one coat. I will take more time over this job as I also need to lacquer the new KCD cycle wings that look unfinished and the dash was a learning process Bottom line this was a cost effective way to bring back tired looking CF not perfect but well worth the effort and I think with what I learned from the dash re spray the wings and nose will have a better result.

Just added the scuttle brackets (with the captive nuts) and the stanchion fits fine The issue is when I attach the new Aero screen the enter tab (that was not on my old Aero) is sitting angled up 4cm above the scuttle is this how it is supposed to sit? Also is this tab where I can attach a rear view mirror too? Thanks

Wow and for 400 quid thats rather expensive? Either way I am going to try to do the DIY option I will post some before and after photos

Yer that's the plan now I guess, I will give the sanding and re-lacquering a go, worst case I screw it up it looks crap and I get the CC one, relocate the indicator lights worry about the next thing. (fixing the paint job)

It was just the dash, but CC no longer makes one for my car, the three indicator lights between the rev counter and spoedo will not fit so I guess I will need to reposition them elsewhere or look to a alternate supplier, the issue with that option that is I had a bad experience with Carbon wings from KCD. The quality/finish was not really up to scratch, and being states side Its not like I can return them. I want the dash finished like the CC one not dull and needing polishing and coating apparently that is a 2x2 (twill) weave Westermann make one that has a great looking finish but way expensive if you want cutouts UC Has mine but the finish looks dull and unfinished