Brightonuk

Mirror I guess I would hate to cut and drill out the gauges only to find I am 3mm off center with It would not help my OCD

I went with m3 rivnuts and used all the existing holes bar the two at the base of the bulkhead (I could not be bothered to remove the bulkhead which I had to do to get the angle right for those two holes) I ordered button head cap screws to secure the scuttle I saw a couple of photos of people using finishing washers but that seemed overkill for me. Now access to the spaghetti is much easier, the down side is now my OCD took over and I decided to eliminate unused switches to try to tidy up the wiring and route it neatly and perfectly spaced. Which in turn means a new custom dash hence a request for an S3 dash template. Funny how something so simple turns into a major project.

Can anyone supply me with a standard S3 dash template? I am looking to redo mine in a custom config. leaving out a couple of switches but I know if I try to wing it things will not line up. Thanks Steve

I decided the concept of using the snap rivets is not going to work to secure the scuttle but I have a question regarding using rivnuts. Once installed in the supporting bulkhead there will be a gap as they do not sit flush it will only be a few mm? Do people use anything (rubber strip etc.) to compensate for the gap or is it a non issue? Am I correct in thinking using half the number of rivnut's will be OK?

KK Thanks Mined does not have this no hole in the body or scuttle guess I could add one but is is a necessity?

"#7 yes, on older cars the scuttle has 2 little 'ears' that sit below the level of the sides and attach to the chassis I used rivnuts in the chassis to secure thes 'ears'. I also used rivnuts in the dashboard loop to replace the self tappers that hold the poppers on for the tonneau. Hope that all makes sense" Any chance of a photo?

Get them ceramic coated well worth the money

The car is a Superlite so no windscreen and no rivnuts on the side of the scuttle I have the right tool it is just after the cycle wing attempt and rear loking poppers I am not very good at the tension setting Maybe if I had gone with a manual installation tool but I opted for this one as the video looked like a no brainer https://www.eastwood.com/astro-pneumatic-rivet-nut-drill-adapter-kit.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-r71BRDuARIsAB7i_QPgifx2WtBGX5EnlsxZZrQztXNdvMQX-pQsD5LDZ5nav4C8FwvKbjwaAn7-EALw_wcB I have ordered these for sizing and testing I figure for 10 bucks I can give it a try https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QSFL4KP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As opposed to using rivnuts I was thinking these will work and not have to deal trying to set the rivnut (which never works for me) https://www.we-online.com/catalog/en/EXRV_SNAP_RIVET

Stanley knife easy to cut The curvature was easy with the 0.40 I just attached each end with some clamps to hold it in place then proceeded to heat the ABS in small sections starting above the lower clamp, just until the ABS starts to soften (it will start to deform) then using a micro fiber cloth (as it will burn you) just fold (squeeze) the ABS around the bow then move up to the next section and do the same. It will tend to crease as it follows the curvature of the body but just go back and reheat and rub the crease area back and forth while squeezing the ABS against the bow with the cloth. Get to the top and remove the lower clamp to finish the base re-clamp at the bottom finish the top. The width is up to you but too wide and it creases too much Here is a 60mm wide against the 45mm

No DecorativePlastics.com here in the US 72 bucks about 55 quid for a 48X 96" sheet Fleabay usually has sellers.

Decided to spruce up the interior from a previous attempt where i had used 1/8" ABS sheet, looking back this was to thick and heavy not to mention very difficult to work with when it came to trying to heat and form. I addition my finished concept (of one piece and rolling over the door sills was not the prettiest result) So this time I went for a .040 ABS. The sheets are extremely lite and pliable the carbon effect is not really the one I expected and there are finishes that are a closer match to the Cycle Wings Dash etc. I just picked the wrong one The cost to return did not make sense so I decided to use it anyway Passenger side cut and ready to fit. I am using 3m VHB molding tape (for easy removal the next time I need to spruce it up) https://www.amazon.com/Double-Mounting-Waterproof-Length-Office/dp/B0829XM2JH/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2NTNU1VYZVH9Z&dchild=1&keywords=3m+moulding+tape&qid=1588458397&sprefix=3m+moulding+tape%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-7 The tape is extremely secure as long as you prep the surfaces I use this stuff once stuck it will not release without a fight. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S2GF8GW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 To address the badly chipped bow caused by the seat belt I molded a strip around the bow from the panel offcuts Heated and molded it now fits snug against the body. Figure Caterham price just for the bow moldings would cost me over 200 bucks + shipping this worked out great and cost around $0. If had picked the correct ABS CF finish I do not think you could tell the difference.

No way am I paying Caterham 235 bucks for a couple of pieces of CF bow protectors

I purchased on of the Ali gear knobs unfortunately my T9 lever is 1/2" and the thread on the knob is ?? much smaller. I tapped the knob out to 1/2" and about 3/4" deep but it still sits too high on the lever and the tap will not go further I do not want to force it and snap the tap, my only option is to shorten the gear lever and re thread it. But I am not sure how far to cut the lever down, do I go really short (hopefully improving shift speed) or just enough so my knuckles don't hit the dash. Thanks

I am sure this has been posted before but I have not come across it. If you are stuck at home thinking what can I do next to the car a cheap upgrade (in looks only)

Duh? Thanks

Thats the verbiage thanks

I am not sure where I saw this but I understand some people have replaced the scuttle bulkhead rivets with Rivnuts for easy access to the dash wiring. Does anyone have a photo how this looks as I would like to have access to the dash wiring without the hassle of removing the scuttle each time. I plan replace the bulkhead with a carbon panel but don't want to start drilling out rivets with no end plan. Once removed is it re-installed behind the scuttle lip or over (outside) the lip

They are all one piece from the inner panel. I formed them the best I could I am not happy with the way they came out but it was first attempt with a heat gun and a wooden work bench Along those lines I remember seeing CF covers for the rear lip as mine are getting chipped from the seatbelts any idea where I find them?

Anyone have a template for the interior panels for an S3 I am thinking of purchasing some CF sheeting and make my own I did fabricate these from ABS but it would be a much better fit if I had a template and work

Thanks for all the advise it was a breeze in the end but first time you kind of play a guessing game and things don't always seem so obvious. I still have the question regarding the rear shocks can they be installed inverted as access to the damping knob is easy through the boot if I install them with the spring on top

OK sorted (without the wife sussing out the new shocks) On the rear it seems that installing them with the springs up makes sense as the damping adjustment is more accessible or do they have to be installed with the springs on the bottom?

OK I will give it a go but seemed kinda unwilling to flex as much as I need I really need two pairs of hands but I did not want to involve the wife as this was an unauthorized purchase.

Should of been simple but the best laid plans... The upper front bolt sits square to the body no way can I remove it to release the strut I cant bend the body enough as the bolt hits it dead center I would need to bend the body a minimum of 4mm+ to get this out Any suggestions?

I am state side so I guess I will need to reuse the sleeves from the Bilstein's You would think for the cost of these they would come with everything you need to install and not have to reuse old parts. Especially something as cheap as inserts