Brightonuk

https://www.proxibid.com/Collector-Cars/1993-Vauxhall-Lotus-Carlton/lotInformation/48185591#topoflot

WoW $60,000.00 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1958-lotus-s1-seven/?fbclid=IwAR2npxFX57m-8ito_9Y83SF4hqSxMe4uAaVRb7sFVN2w-Q7sNBTDc4-g2DE

Any bets on the final price?

Man if only.. I was not Married No Kids No Cat No Mortgage No Crack Habit A Job I would bid on this baby https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1958-lotus-s1-seven/?utm_source=transactionalemail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=bat_model_notification

Stinger Yellow

Same here I have an "as new" split SV cover that I purchased by mistake. And I am in the US

I painted the calipers on my Tesla P85 three years ago with this stuff still looked great when I sold the car I washed the car twice a week and used wheel cleaner did not fade out or peel https://www.g2usa.com/ Has excellent reviews on various car forums Not sure if you can get it in the UK

Thank you Bricol Hopefully have it in the shop later this week then a couple of weeks from them to strip and see what damage I did driving it If I did screw up the piston the car came with a set of JE Pistons for the Zetec which will save me $700 Not meaning to go on and on but I looked down the throttle bodies and I can see all four valves does this indicate better news?

Yep and time like this he wishes he was home

Oil pressure was up an down depending on the rpm and it was always a big swing from idle to 3K RPM

The engine has been rather noisy and I finally took it to a reputable race shop to find out if it was a real issue or just a Ford Zetec They put her on the dyno and made 180 @ 7200 before it started to drop off but showed it was running very lean. They said the noise could be piston slap so they dumped the oil filter and the oil looks like silver paint. At that point the assumption was a main bearing was the issue and a rebuild was discussed or a new power plant, both = $$$$. So I left after being told to drive easy (After red lining her on a Dyno) and we can price rebuilt power plants vs a rebuild. On the drive back home 56 Miles at a steady 62mph I come to realize that the Dyno test was not the best thing to do.... (1/4 mile to go) bang and the engine sounds like a a tin can with a rock in it. My guess is a main bearing has gone so I assume the choice has been made and a new engine? The question is, the engine is a Ford racing Zetec 2.0 that had been bumped to a 11.1 compression Kent Rally cams, HC Cosworth forged pistons, oversize valves, race ported. and on with all this work done on the engine should I try to have it rebuilt? (did nurse her home so I may have caused even more damage) If I go for a reconditioned power plant (not a Ford Racing option) is it wise to reuse any salvageable HP parts from the old engine and use in a reconditioned unit? If I go for the engine swap can I drop a 2.3 Eco boost in place of the souped up 2.0? Will I get the same HP output? If I can go with a 2.3 Eco boost what issues will I face going from a Zetec 2.0 to a 2.3 Eco boost? A little broad but hopefully I can get some input as to my best option.

LOL I bought the latter (but it does work)

Thanks Stu..... She made that clear to me a few times and undoubtedly a few more times to come*confused*

Anyone know the torque setting for the center hub bolts. I would guess 15lbs (old skool)

My wife is the smartest person know She sussed it out and it is very simple and make me look like mechanic #5

I have run my Hoosiers with no issues I recently had the car resprayed and they dismantled some of the rear components, now the tires are hard against the trailing arms. Any ideas as everything looks OK is there a left and right not that I see that making any difference. Thanks Steve

So they were finished? as the wb site says unfinished I assumed unfinished = dull and not lacquered (Your rear wings look 100 times better that the ones I got from KCD)

I cracked mine so time for a new one trouble is where to buy KCD is out of the question after the abysmal CF cycle wings I purchased from them. Carbon Mods no longer makes them so the only three I can find is Westermann, CC and Carbon Mods but I want one finished I do not want to have to lacquer it. So CM is out. I know if I spend the $$ CC will not be a let down but I hate overpaying and then having to ship it stateside is more $$. Any reviews on the Westermann gear as they save me a couple of hundred quid but if the quality is crap I am SOL it is not like I can return it Thanks Steve

I think the mailman is stealing my Nigerian checks

There is a great series on YouTube regarding engine building (I am one of the idiots) Pete breaks it down in easy well thought out episodes explaining in detail the steps needed to rebuild your engine. What to look for and the dos and don'ts Might not be for the experienced among us, although he mentions do and don'ts that would benefit anyone rebuilding or interested in the steps for this undertaking Here is part one.

Forget it reading through the control pack instructions I found this stipulation Pages from FordInstShtM-6017-A504V.pdf Pages from FordInstShtM-6017-A504V_0.pdf

Did not want to go for an aftermarket turbo I would rather have a "Plug and Play set up (hopefully less headaches) The gear box was a concern I will see what gear box is attached to the donor 2.0 and try to find if it will fit the tunnel if not............. back here to look for suggestions or scrap this idea and start over I am not looking to build an insanely fast track car, this is a daily driver with weekend track fun so the 2.0 seems more than enough and I save a few bucks. I have been trying to educate myself on the complexities of this undertaking and don't want to get started only to find I am hopelessly lost, that is another reason I would prefer a drop in motor. Installing the engine I am confident I can do it is just the electronics (what do I need) that is my concern. ECU mapping?? Return style fuel system??? And the wiring*confused* I will wait to see if I get any more responses on L7C and if the general consensus is this ain't that difficult and this is a wise choice will pull the trigger on the engine on Friday

The supercharging seemed to be the wrong way to go with an engine that was 18 years old so I am looking at this for a swap. http://www.fordracingbyspeedshopdirect.com/2018_2_3L_Mustang_Ecoboost_Crate_Engine_p/m-6007-23ta.htm Mine will be a used motor with 15K on it (Drop in with the engine wiring harness) I have been told the donor car is complete but via a 3rd party reseller so if I need any other parts I should be able to get them from the seller My issue is as this will be my first attempt at a swap what other accessories will I need beside the "control pack" and a "return style fuel system" (what ever that is) Any pointers on what issues I may run into should I go for a 2.0 turbo instead? http://www.fordracingbyspeedshopdirect.com/2_0L_I_4_ECO_BOOST_CRATE_ENGINE_KIT_p/m-6007-20t.htm Also available used with low mileage. The guy is asking $2500 for the 2.0 and $2700 for the 2.3

I purchased a set of Proxies 185/60/13 & 205/6013 but the do not fit using this style rim the off set on the rim is too far back so they are rubbing front and rear What size should I look for to run on these rims

GT = Grand Tourer = More like a Dailey driver than a track Car = More wife Acceptable = Less grief when I buy stuff They are Throttle bodies And no, have not worked on the cap yet (I will upload a photo of the place where the cap mounts as although restricted I see what looks like a block off plate (I will post a photo on my org thread regarding that issue) Just came down with the flu last night so I am sick as a parrot but will check everything above once I drag myself out of bed