Brightonuk

I blew out my 20 year old muffler made by the Carbon Component Co Now OOB (dam good quality) So I am looking for a replacement pretty much identical in size as the old one exits just below the rear cutout and I want to keep that look The only one I see fits my needs is ​Raceco Titanium but at $660 or $710 + freight to the US (Sterling not dollars) seem an awfully lot of money for a muffler. Any other options available?

I had the same issue yesterday after getting the rims balanced the rear wheels jammed up on the inside weights, so I asked the shop to move the weights further in I was told a tire is balanced using weights inside and outside the rim so if I moved the weights in the tire will not balance correctly. Unfortunately my rims will not accept clip on rim weights so last night I tried to grind down the axle tubes but not much success (still rubbing). So I am moving the rims out 1/4" using these https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?Ntt=555-65075&requestYear=&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&year=&make=&model=&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false I will let you know how it works out

The idiots that attempted to paint my car (more on that on a separate thread one I have clamed down) lost the wheel cover bolts I have tried M8 .125 but no go anyone clue me in to the size and thread of these bolts Thanks

LOL guess that will never be used

Thanks John absolutely perfect Anyone know what this plate is use for (aside from a grounding point)? Wielded on the passenger side frame just beneath the scuttle also has the vin stamped on it. It does stop me from attaching the knee rim panel

Nope I had the old style aero that was held in across the top of the scuttle so I do not have any holes in the side Are the holes pre drilled on current ones as I do not se anything in the build manual I dont think it needs to be that exact as I am adding Brooklands and using a new style Aero on track days but I would like to be close. In addition do I use Rivenuts to attach it (using the supplied bolts) or a nut and washer?

I went with brand name Philips Red Philips Sku# 2357R andAmber Philips Sku# 1156A They do require a resistor for both indicators but they are cheap just Google led resistor or LED rapid flashing Amazon has them as well Simple to splice them in. The two wires from the resistor tap into the + an - of the indicator 5 min job (not spliced but tapped)

Trying to add a stanchion to my superlite but do not have any position guidelines Can someone offer me the measurements from the front leading edge of the scuttle to the center of the mounting hole on the stanchion and from the rear as well. Or just a close up photo of a mounted stanchion Thanks Thanks

Just changed out my old fuel filler for a new one and I question regarding this The old filler had three pipes one going to this nipple on the fuel tank the new filler is missing this leg (only has two) Can I just cap the fuel tank nipple? What is it for? Thanks

Ya seen the posts but no real idea on how it was done or what brand of mirror they used I an sure it will need to be a DIY project but did not want to spin my wheels buying the incorrect parts

I like the look of bullet mirrors but have read you need to have the side mirrors on 3 stalks (to see over the rear wings and stability) I think this also goes for the center to keep a uniform appearance Any links to purchase the side and center bullet mirrors on stalks or do I need to fabricate the mounts? If so any pointers length of the stalks, attachment to the body/Stanchion, Mirror brand/type etc? To add to the complexity of this project I just purchased a Stanchion, pair of Brooklands and a new aero screen (Thanks Redline) so I can interchange the screens on track days. So I would like the mirrors and stalks to be detachable so I can use the CF spa mirrors with the Aero Here are some stalks I though I could use if I do need to fabricate https://www.jpcycles.com/product/7600160/j-p-cycles-optional-mirror-stem-8-for-custom-round-mirors https://www.jpcycles.com/product/751-598/drag-specialties-die-cast-replacement-low-rider-mirror-stem https://www.jpcycles.com/product/751-597/drag-specialties-die-cast-replacement-standard-length-mirror-stem As always thank you for any help

Sorry Tom to big and too expensive to ship and honestly they are waisted it would not be a happy result once you got them I have decided to cut the mounting flange of of the rears so I have a template to drill the new shiny ones I am bringing back with me.

Here is a shot of the rear tub where the original wing was torn out (thank you for the nylon bolt idea for the reinstall) Stu not sure I understand you idea but I was going to use these They are aluminum knock outs from electrical gang boxes and glue them using loctite E-120hp aircraft adhesive over the damaged holes then re-drill using bcrains idea

Thanks everyone for the advise as always truly appreciated I Hope to meet a few of you guys when I am back in the UK anyone going to the Castle Combe Racing on August 11th?

Guess too far too travel for most

What size Bolts are standard size for the wings

Well battered but someone with time and knowledge may be able to repair them Pick up only from Plantation Florida available for 1 week then they go to the landfill )-:

Replacing my Carbon cycle wings which had a combination of m5 nuts and washers and rivnuts The rivnut option looks the cleanliest way to go all round but before I go out and buy the gun https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-ADN14-Adapter/dp/B01JBO58FM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1533167242&sr=8-4&keywords=pneumatic+rivet+nut+tool or go cheap https://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html Should I be using aluminum or Stainless rivnuts for carbon wings I would assume aluminum as there is no stress on the wings but as always look to the knowledgebase for advice. Thanks

OK Thanks I will play around with the anti Roll Bar position and see if it makes me a better driver As for the boot yep it is aluminum it gets support at the back of the car but the front part has nothing to support it so it just flops back an forth I will get a couple of shots when I get home this evening

What is this adjustment and how does it affect the handing of the car? How does raising and lowering the adjustment ring on the shock affect the handing of the car is there a staring position? Lastly just received the boot floor how is it secured the the car is there a kit with brackets I am missing or does it just sit unsecured Thanks

Hype? Anyone installed poly busings would like some thoughts if they do make a difference on the track

Looking to upgrade all my Superlite bushings to Polyurethane in the hopes of a better handling car on the track FRsports.com are selling a well sorted kit for around 150-200 bucks but I have no idea what vehicle I should be looking at to match a set https://frsport.com/search?stockingStatus=S&q=Polyurathane&instock=0&isu=1&sort_by=5&sort_order=desc Is Caterham proprietary when is comes to the size of bushings do I need to measure each one. Thanks Steve

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/lotus/super-seven/1871753.html https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/lotus/unspecified/1905571.html https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/lotus/7/2099394.html

Its not so I am just going for two reversing lights I wanted to construct a pigtail harness

Thanks