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Thank you 7 wonders, helpful i am also planning to upgrade cams and it seems to make sense to do at same time if timing will be affected. Regards the dry sump, im planning in buying the caterham kit without alteration to keep things simple and avoid impacting resale value. Also like the layout of their kit. i already have an oil temp sensor and will definitely keep it, useful regards the cams, am planning on also purchasing from Caterham and doing a straight swap, understand my 2016 engine already has correct springs and injectors so would just need to find someone local to map it (se3 blackheath).

Am thinking of buying and fitting this to my 360r over the winter and would appreciate advice from anyone with direct experience of fitting one please? Is it a practical job for a small lockup garage and does it require specialist knowledge that precludes a handy amateur mechanic many thanks simon

Thanks for replies, think i will start with a good quality synthetic 5w40 and see how that goes

Resurrecting this thread following more high (7 bar) oil pressures from my 360r this morning. Am about to track it again and think i will change oil and filter. Interested to hear owners views on whether i should use the recommended 5w50 or can i go for something thinner to bring pressure down a bit, thinking 5w30 or 40? Many thanks simon

Hi Charlie Yes, still available from Blackheath, brand new, pls blatmail me if interested thanks simon

Just did Brands track day yesterday in newish 360r with aero screen and couldn't get past 110mph down the straight in fourth. Whilst car feels faster than previous 310r that had more of a top end rush. 360r is very torquey and feels like its all over by 6000 revs. Conclusion is that i think the 310r suited track driving better?

Simply jack the rear of the car under the de dion and turn one of the rear wheels, if the other rotates the other way its an open diff, the same way, its an LSD. When I did this on my 2016 sigma with BMW LSD (written in pen on the diff) the wheel turned the other way indicating an open diff. Caterham acknowledged they had a known problem with the carbon plates on the titan LSD fitted and repaired it (although I had to pay for the removal and refitting).

Whilst its difficult to move the clutch and brake pedals the accelerator pedal also has two positions and is easily moved. I had a similar issue in my 360r and was able to move the accelerator pedal backwards, this bringing the brake forward and improving the heel and toe action. Some tips include when moving throttle pedal, cut off the cable end and use the inside of a wiring connector block instead, much easier to adjust and replace adjust the throttle stops so as to prevent undue stress on cable i also used a vice and lever to adjust the pedal away from brake pedal to make room for my feet i used a length of 2x1 to lever the brake pedal the other way, insert through top of pedal box, it works i removed brake and clutch pedal rubbers and used some anti slip tape instead, again makes room for the shoes finally after all this have good heel and toe and room for my size 10’s, just.

I used mole grips to pull springs off but on new car the decat pipe hooks required me to screw the spring over the wire ends to effectively lengthen sping ends so it could be pulled over hook, made it much easier

Will take a look tonight ans try and post a photo

There is a little clip keeping the arm on the splined boss nut basically use more force, they do come off easily enough

Happened on my 2017 duratec on saturday, speedo dropped to zero, flickered about and recovered by time returned home, another chore to investigate, assume its sensor on driveshaft

Took a look last night and delighted to discover leather seats bolt to seat rails and very easy to add spacers. Also that leather headrest is easily dismantled and a slice of foam could easily be removed, think i will try spacers first

Thanks, i would prefer to stick with the leather padded headrest for this reason, i will try tilting the seat rails back tomorrow and see how i get on, failing that might have a look at the foam inside and reducing it somewhat. Its amazing how much time and effort is required getting this car ready for the track what with roll bar, aeroscreen, mirrors, etc

Hmm, that is a seriously good idea, like your thinking Am going to start by trying to tilt seats back, then may look at the steel head restrainer square and pad it but carving some foam out if the headrest is a good idea. Currently using a helmet with leather seat and headrest is untenable, must be a standard answer to this one?

Thanks Jim, will give that a go, do you know whether if i add spacers under the front of the rails will the adjust lever get trapped under the cross rail? Rob, also thanks, will try this idea if tilting the seat doesn't work, did you use the simple small square head restraint and did you add plywood/foam to increase its area?

Does anyone have a short (4cm)stem for a spa central mirror they want to part with please? Or swap for the longer (10cm) one i have which is too high? many thanks simon

I have just fitted an aeroscreen with spa formula wing mirrors and the flat rear mirror in tall stalk. The wing mirrors are good and work well but dont show anything directly behind, on the basis they dont stick out very far. The rear mirror would be good but it is impeded by the cross brace of the roll bar and consequently useless. Has anyone used a shorter stalk for the rear mirror to go under the brace and if so where from please? thanks simon

Have fitted aeroscreen and finding wearing a helmet difficult with leather seats headrest. I used to be able to reverse headrest but new track day roll bar prevents this (bar tilts forward and is too close to the head rest now) Have read that spacers under front of seat rails can tilt seat back and make room but questions how do you access bolt capheads to undo bolts? i have lowered floors, what to do with seat rail release lever when tilting seat rails pushes it up against the floor brace? Looks like this will stop me being able to tilt seat back Am loathe to use helmet without headrest since very close to roll bar and dangerous, could i use a head restraint pad instead? thanks simon

Steve from premier power recommended this as a cheap upgrade and reckoned it made a big difference to midrange power and i certainly noticed the difference. Would be very interesting to see before and after power curves

The 1/8 npt bog standard caterham water temp sender is the one to go for, have used this on k-series, sigma and now duratec and it works well, sigma oil temp gets quite high on the gauge ~110c but duratec seems to run a lot cooler ~80/90c ​sending a single wire from your oil temp sender around the chassis and up past the bell housing and through the grommet with the main wiring loom into the scuttle is the best route, then switch between water and oil feeds at the gauge end as originally suggested. Useful mod for seeing how hot oil gets on track days

Hi Tom Reading your post it all looks good, dont know why wires are doubled up, perhaps earth and lamp wires are stringing along all the instruments. No need to cut feeder wire, just carefully prise it out of socket and plug into switch and prepare short lead from switch into gauge plug using spade terminals (ebay is your friend) im guessing sender wire is single green blue but its easy to work out with a multlimeter Make sure switch is lined up horizontally with indicator switch and exactly between oil and water gauges. I do like this mod, its cheap and effective Enjoy Simon

this is an SV petty strut purchased in error, brand new and unused £40 collect from blackheath south east london

This is the new type s3 metric rollbar (no diagonals) which bolts from below and very well made and in excellent condition £100 collect from blackheath south east london

As i recall, 40/50 psi is about normal, 20 at idle