PeterM
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Everything posted by PeterM
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I hasten to add; I got mine FOC from CC, but my lips are sealed re how! Will be fitting them during the 'winter COVID spike' if and when it comes.
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CC recently advised me to cut out around the the outside hood popper with a Dremel rather than remove the popper and re-fit with the self tapper; which tends to crack the carbon fibre.
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#252 It should never be forgotten that 'people do business with people'. The right approach has always won the day for me.
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Hamble Lane heading North on Sat.
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PM sent
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Have you recently topped up the oil? If so then I'm with SM25T; as one of my theories from a lifetime in marine engineering is 'if it's mechanically OK then suddenly goes wrong, always go back to the last point of maintenance '.
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If you did the same as me you probably opened up the jaws of the bracket and closed them after putting the cable in.
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Hi Bert. I had the same on my C160, which is also a 'fly by wire' throttle system. I had no control whatsoever over the throttle for about 10mins. Once the engine compartment had warmed up it went away. I suspect condensation got into the throttle potentiometer after a rare chilly night in the open.
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Just finishing a biuld; I was advised that only the connections at each end of the front brake flexibles need covering. Chassis end can done quite neatly by cutting the end off a long exhaust nut cover, splitting, fitting and gluing back together. Caliper end I have used a bit of hose with tie wrap but it's not neat and seeking another solution. If you think of something please let me know.
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Dusty orange, black stripes and corners, last 3 digits FUN. Parked on Lee on the Solent seafront and then again in Titchfield Road, no doubt going home.
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#42 Cheers Mark. Didn't realize PGM had this new product available; just what I've been looking for so ordered one today!
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Soft Bits for Sevens Half Hood. Used only twice - but a godsend when it was. Includes cover and boot straps but but not side poppers. Ex C160 and critical measurement from front of screen to mid point on Roll Bar is 860mm. Reason for sale: 310S kit with track day roll bar coming in 4 weeks. £200 new. On offer at £125.00 excluding P&P. SOLD SOLD SOLD
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Bosch Titanium for me; not cheap but as they say..................buy cheap buy twice.
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I had to renew a Rad on my 160 in Nov 17 @ 3 years old. I argued (with CC) that the Rad was not fit for purpose at the point of supply because the top and bottom brackets that anchored one of the headers to the elements had failed allowing differential expansion and putting stress on the resin that is used to seal the elements in the headers. I had to order a new one and return the old for investigation with the OEM. Without too much delay they agreed to refund the cost. I have no idea if your rad and mine are the same.
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Hi Xavier.I fitted a K&N Air Intake Filter to my 160 on the basis that more air = more fuel = more bang. I reckon it gave me a bit more power, quicker revving and certainly made 3rd gear more usable in urban areas. It's Ford filter and the K&N number is 33-2853. The increase in power of the Super Sport is achieved by a revised turbo dump valve and ECU tweak. I have asked CC if they would/are intending to market an upgrade now that all the Super Sports are built, but it seems not - might be worth trying again though. My thinking is that anything like 200bhp would ruin the essential character of the car but 100bhp would be just dandy.
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Saw the wave; I was taking a 'dog-leg' route home to Hill Head from the Children's Trust Day at Goodwood...............a super event on a super day.
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I gave you a nice wave from my 160.
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Works for me also - good blog, which I will follow closely in prep for a 310S kit delivery in Oct.
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Lack of holes under the material a bit strange and self tappers definitely not right. Cross-cut headed bolts with plastic (IVA) nut covers on inside are the norm.
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Have you bleed all air directly from the top of the radiator?
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If you are not time constrained; Leave A303 just past Wincanton onto B3081 heading towards Gillingham and Shaftesbury Keep on B3081, up Zig Zag Hill (used to be used for hill climbs between the wars). Super views to the left Could turn right at cross roads for Compton Abbas Airfield for lunch Back to the B3081 through Ashmore, Tollard Royal and Sixpenny Handley Over A354 and take B3078 to Cranbourne, Alderholt and Fordingbridge Continue on B3078 across 'the wood with donkeys walking about' Across roundabout to A338 to enter Southampton via Totton
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If it's the hole I think you mean you are unlikely to get a grommet in there. So I wrapped the cables in heat shrink, cut a grommet in half and stuck half on the outside with Superglue. If kit has no grommets then you may need to buy a pack of various sizes from Halfords using the 10% discount the club has..................which currently expires end of the month.
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Going through same experience on my 160 - 2 weeks and counting! Naively thought insurers windscreen contractors would order an assembly from CC, but no, took screen back to their Bristol HQ and tried fitting new glass to old frame/old rubber; they botched it and frame was damaged in transit. Local branch now expecting delivery of an glass/frame assembly from CC next week. I took the knee plates off myself so local Fitter could get at the pillar nuts and I will refit them. Can't fault the Fitter though, he knows his stuff on Caterhams and will be connecting/heat shrinking the 'rats tail' to existing wiring as the connectors to the loom under the dash do not fit through the hole/grommet.
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I had a problem with wheel centering on my 160. CC played with it at post build check. They checked castor angle/washers as per build manual and then tried slackening off the Allan screw on the steering rack to reduce stiffness in the mesh but without adding back lash in the steering. This got a little bit of action but its nothing like what you get in a tin top, even with the narrow tyres of a 160. I was concerned that it might fail at IVA but didn't, and I have passed an MOT since so have stopped worrying about it as the car runs a straight as a die in normal driving with the lightest of touch on the wheel.
