PeterM

Looked at this again and blew up the picture of the diff in the assembly manual. It looks like those bolts (and whatever it is hanging off them) should be there. You must be a mind reader, I was thinking exactly the same as per the rad. In fact I have asked Derek whether anyone has ever suggested cutting the repeater wire so you can load the Econo plug with a 'rats tail' and then re-join the wire with a single spade connector just inside the upper wishbone where it comes into the body. This would mean the wiring is done and dusted before the rad goes in and also make changing the cycle wing easier.

Hi Simon - I didn't take anything off the diff before fitting. Looks to me like you might have some sort of 'transportation keep' in place that is retaining the half shaft bearing. I can't recall if there was one on mine; if there was it's in and diff turns OK. Mine you fitting the diff is quite fiddily; it only goes in one way, drops to about an inch from mating and then has to be turned and juggled a bit to align the main wheel with the casing space. Trouble is, I reckon if you don't have the sealant in place and do a 'dry run' it will be a devil to get it back out to add the sealant. I will look at the front wings tomorrow and yes, having read of wings flying off at inopportune moments 'I've decided to bolt mine as well, so I'm just as interested s to where the marks are.

Congrats on getting your wheels and axle casing and I'm impressed by your fortitude regarding the lights - I shall be pursuing the alternative method! How something as simple as gearbox and diff oil becomes a problem is beyond me; Shell products are not unique so surely they could provide a list of equivalents, let us buy it in the small quantities that other producers seem to have available and then provide a refund. Noting in the handbook that the diff oil needs replacing at 3mths - do they think (after our current experiences) that we are going to go back to Caterham to get it!

I have the answers to the above; 'Derek from Dartford' (now back at work) says the Fuse Box cover 'fits over the whole area of the fuse box, all cars have got it' - I think it's an IVA thing - but a quick 'offer up' didn't make it obvious as to how. And the plates are Knee Trim Panels to fit under the scuttle at the sides..............so that's why all those holes have not been filled with rivets!

There was no gasket sealer with the axle - I bought a tube in Halfords. And yes, I seem to have nuts and bolts left over, but I don't think that's surprising and I'm not too concerned. I also seem to have bits that are not needed, like a Fuse Box Cover with EU175 on the tag and some black plates that I can't see fathom the use ofany ideas?

I noticed the grommet but I don't se how they could have got it and the sheath in there, so I'm not touching mine again. I'm thinking, once I've covered the cables under the indicator in heat shrink tape (after fitting the econoseal plugs and tidying up inside) they won't be able see the indicator wire anyway.

Hi Martin - missing bits do seem to be a problem. Although told at delivery that only the cat and wheels were missing I since found that I was also missing a Gearbox Extension, Lower Steering column, first fill oils, + some minor bits. And today I couldn't find the Purge Hose - so I don't think I'm finished yet. Check the 'Late Pick Box' on delivery! On the other hand, if they have it in stock they are very quick to get it to you - but I think we are expected to sort out their 'poor picking' practices.

Hi Simon - My back axle casing came with the original kit delivery, which was delivered after yours - I reckon they must share out the missing bits in order to deliver what they have spent money on so far, it's called 'cash flow' I think........and yes I know I'm a bit of a cynic! I just spotted the best route for the loom from the excellent phots you have posted from Martin B; they will be very helpful. Perhaps they will also solve the mysteries of the 'De-Gas Hose' which is not well described or shown in the manual. The phots also show the fuel line emerging from the tunnel on the RH side whereas mine comes out on the left and therefore has to cross over the top of the gearbox to get to the connection; something is not quite right and some mods to the run are probably required. So you were very wise to connect it later - I wish I had!

Engine in today with Mrs M's help and all masking removed - looking good. No probs but (as already noted from Ned) it's certainly tight on the RH side. Simon - few q's if I may (and I might be being thick) but where does the Chassis Harness Connection go and a] from where did you earth the engine using the 2 into 1 earthing connection and b] in the end did you use the treaded bolt hole just left of the battery as the chassis earth. I also found the fuel hose a bit short to reach the connection - did you? Whilst waiting for my gearbox extension I loaded the diff into the back axle - it's fiddily! The spring loaded top vent cap didn't have clearance from the welds used to weld the spigot onto the axle so it was free to turn and lift - I hacksawed a bit off the cap! Edit @ 1930 - couldn't rest, had to go back out and have a look - so please ignore my question re Chassis Harness Connection; I was being thick! /sites/default/files/images/users/11787/Engine%20In%20Dark%202.jpg

Good 'engine room' shots, they will be very helpful. Now if only I had a Gearbox Extension and Linkage Assembly I could be fitting the engine.........!

Fitted the Heater today; and remembered from Andrew B's blog that the 'ears' (extensions on each end) must point downwards when fitting the internal vent plate. On fitting I see that this allows a heat/cooling supply to go forward into the footwells. Simon - in which bag did you find the bolts for the top holes on the heater body where it fixes to the dashboard valance. I used 2 from the 'Cooling Bag' that fitted OK but I'm not convinced they were the right ones as there were 4 in the bag and I only needed 2 - at times this is the only clue Ned.

Simon - if you are having probs contacting Derek it's because he is on paternity leave until 19th Jan - which was not nice to hear as I have sat here patiently waiting for bits that I thought would be on the way once they were back to work on Monday. His stand-in (who apparently doesn't have a phone!) is Steve Houlton on steve.houlton@caterham.com.

Thank you Simon for the mentions in your 'front page' blog. I give in.........what is a petty strut? I found the power socket connection - really tucked way above the loom against the top of the dash therefore difficult to find. Short cabling though, so extension needed to make it reach where the obvious place for the socket to go - far left of fitted dash switches. Car well preserved - almost spent as much time wiping the Dinitrol away from where I didn't want it as putting where I did. Should have masked up better!

Good Oh. I haven't found the socket connection yet - but I'm in no hurry - but knowing it's there is a comfort - many thanks for doing the 'leg work'. Whilst waiting for the gearbox extension so I can put the engine in I have been 'pottering' - like preserving both sides of the wood in the boot floor.

Simon - Seeing as the C160 phot at the top of this website seems to have the new rad fitted the I had another look at this. You should have 4 x right angled plastic brackets in the 'Cooling' parts bag (where the cotton reel rubbers are). They slide into 4 slots on the fan and then will line up with the rad bolts. If needs be I will post a photo here tonight.

Hi Simon, You are not being daft; I agree, the fan will not fit the bolts and I cannot see an adapter plate. When my 7 owning friend came around he had a close look at the rad as it was a bit of a Caterham 'achilles heel' (he had one fail overseas and it cost a lot!). However, he was glad to see they had updated the design; perhaps they forgot to make sure the fan fixings matched. Sooner or later someone will tell us it's 'all part of the Caterham experience' Peter M

I hadn't realized we were such 'early innovators' but it figures, as marque wide Caterham fits seem to go well (all the bits, good fastenings, well documented) but 160 bits not so. I have bought SS rear wing stone guards with the kit but if Premier Paint Guard are making template fits for the 160 I'm interested, particularly for the front nose cone area. Returning to an old chestnut - I asked Derek if he had an advice re fitting a 12v socket. He said it was already wired into the loom. So if you come across a connector with Black and Purple/Red wires please let me know where, as I'm damned if I can see it..........even after 15mins upside down in the footwells!

Hi Simon. Missing bits are a problem aren't they; whilst 'browsing' I found out today that I did not get a lower steering column, and the washer jet fitting did not have a retaining nut - the latter is 'smally beer' but annoying! Regarding wheel arch protection; I was following your lead until a friend and fellow 7 owner told me about 'sticking' the front bicycle wings rather than drilling etc. - and then I saw that you will have to take the stone chip off to do this. So my current thoughts are white stone chip at the back and sticking thin rubber (pond liner - I have left overs!) under the front wings (leaving space for the carrier bars) and then sticking another piece of rubber across the bars to deflect stones away from them; it might also help stop the wings from flying off (as one partly did for my friend whilst doing 80 on the motorway!)

Grommet problem cracked; I also stuck a 1/2 grommet on where the cables some through the chassis hole into the engine compt. Yes, a half grommet is one cut in half, I'm calling it a 'Wallace'........Wallace and Grommet.....,get it, oh never mind! Also finished the front suspension + ARB today; for upcoming biulders, have a length of stout rope to form a 'Spanish Windless' to pull the ARB ends into the wishbone fixings. Next I would be on to engine and gearbox but discovered, when mustering the parts, that I did not have a gearbox extension and Dartford is closed until Jan 5th. Ah well, at least Mrs M will get a bit more attention for a week.

Simon - did you manage to ghet the headlight cables and the shrouding through the grommets supplied?

I also had a mesage re 'no oil' so at least that's cleared up. I managed to fit a grommet on the headlamp bracket but it makes fitting it an issue as you then have to 'squeeze' the grommet quite hard to get the light bracket 'clip' to fit onto the chassis bracket and line up with the top mount holes. I ended up 'easing' the clip a bit. Are they sending you a 'proper' grommet? If so I ask for one and pause a while for the 2nd wishbone. I found that the only way to sort out the headlight/winker combination and get the wires running correctly is on the bench and then fit the assembly as a whole.

I'm expecting an oil delivery tomorrow; I suspect it will be the same as yours so I will be v interested to see the outcome of your query. Mineral oil sounds a bit 'last decade' doesn't it! Incidentally I have clarified with Derek re the '7' on the nose cone; the 1st line of the IVA advice says it should be on the inside of the grill but it comes on the outside. Derek said they recently redesigned the grill to pass IVA - one to tick off then! Derek has also promised me some touch up paint in the new year - one to ask for unless you have already. I see what you mean re front lights, indicators, grommets and difficulties, I bought a pack of assorted grommets from eBay a few weeks ago so I have one, I haven't seen one in my kit and I agree with you, the shrouding should be more then adequate. With a grommet in place it leaves a very small hole to pass the wires through, let alone the shroud. That will be tomorrows 'persevere' job because with a grommet in the hole I can't see how you can add the lights to the bracket after the suspension has been done. .

Cheers Simon - ooops, read the instructions, lesson learnt. I actually ended up doing one side of IVA rubbers around the suspension holes late today - not the easiest of jobs. How they expect you to do it after fitting the suspension I don't know. I glued them at various points with superglue. Advice to upcoming builders; google HAFIX Industrial Products, they sell an industrial superglue in small sizes (and glue remover!) online for £10 a pot. I first saw it at a caravan show years ago, you keep it in the fridge and it last for ages, sticks anything to anything in secs, with the smallest of drops.

Funeral I'm afraid......................a timely reminder as to why you just have to get on and do it! Then preservation and masking up. Simon - question; the gaiters in the IVA pack that look like they should fit the trackrod ends are closed at the narrow end. Did you drill through or are they for somewhere else?

Great IT advice Ned. For info on pic: yes, I made my own axle stands so the car sits higher than normal (I am of 'mature age so want to save the old back!), the white board is a left over bit of hardboard painted to reflect a bit more light on things and the anti-fatigue mats are (were) on offer at £10 a set in Halfords. The added height allows me to get underneath and also stow many of the boxes there - but means I have had to buy a more expensive trolley jack to get it back down! I also made myself an engine 'dolly' so it can be stowed out of the way, moved around to fit the gearbox and brought to the front at fitting time. I wouldn't like to support the chassis upside down and it's a lot heavier than I expected. So I'm off and running, but my progress will be slower than Simon's as this is a 'retirement job' that Mrs M said I needed (must get!) to keep me occupied when I can't play golf.