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Perished fuel pressure hose


Jan T

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Just had my R300 SV serviced and the nice man who did it replaced the main fuel pressure hose to the manifold(?) as the underside was very perished. Consequences of it springing a leak would not have been good to say the least. My car has only done 7000 miles and is 2 years old so take a look at yours. The part is a standard Rover hose but modified at both ends by CC and it costs a shade under £55.

Jan

 

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Can I suggest that others check this hose *thumbup*

 

My car nearly two years old had the same problem

£54.62 +VAT and fitting

 

5 noted at Caterham Midlands in the last week

 

As stated "failure would make a mess!"

 

A10ROX:OK, its an R500 without the magnesium bits sump etc and only 205bhp!

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My XPower 140 SV (March 2003) has got the same fuel pipe cracking on the rubber bit between the

union and the manifold and will have to be replaced.

Agree that some Caterham parts are very frail.........replacement Rev Counter and speedo after check up run to factory when new. Have had wiper linkage break,temp and oil senders fail and alternator run its bearing and the 2nd Rev counter fail all since1st July. Never been on a track or raced so not impressed. Also brake light switch failed. Put relay in to prevent failure in future.

CC seem to think that my failures are unusual....... But understand that they do not keep accurate records of parts supplied, but only warranty items and as we all know the warranty is only 12 months and "average Caterham mileage" during warranty is only around 4000 miles. Oil and temp senders seem to fail very often.

Would not surprise me if CC have had the fuel pipes lying around the factory for years..... Fuel pipe has a pretty easy life..... Little engine movement and in view of generous under bonnet space should keep cooler than under the normal cramped space on most modern cars. Never had to replace on any other car and some have been 10 years old......... Rover item about £20 , slightly modified caterham item £50 + gold plated unions ??

HUGH ROBINSON

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

Just checked my flexible fuel hose from solid pipe in the tunnel to the injector rail *eek*

 

Ye Gods! Looks as though it's about to let go.

 

I think I'll see if I can get the ends put on a better quality hose.

 

2003 1.8 K-Series 42,000 miles and 3 1/2 years old.

 

BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

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Mr Webmaster Sir, it might be worth making this a sticky ?

 

Its not just the engine bay hose, folks have been reporting perishing of the flexible hose from the fuel tank to the fuel filter in the rear drivers side wheel arch as well here *eek*

 

Check those hoses ..............

 

 

Edited by - Graham Perry on 17 Sep 2006 15:00:43

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Just dropped it into my local hydraulic repair place and they will fit the end fittings to a new length of braided hose and pressure test it. Don't know the cost yet, but it's hardly likely to be more expensive than a new item from CC.

 

The angled fitting just pulled out of the hose *eek*

 

I've given Simon at CC a heads-up, but he won't be at work until Tuesday 19th.

 

BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

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I'm not about to blame anybody; I just thought CC might like to know of the occurance *cool*

 

BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

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search the archives I moaned about this a couple of months ago. There was an issue with the lines fitted, poor quality. Also the replacement hoses may not be exactly the same - you have been warned!

 

In the end, after caterham phaffed around saying they couldnt help ( and I had a race to go to) McMillan Motorsport fixed it for a tenner!!! I sent my £60 hose back to CC and asked for a refund, which I got.

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I used the end fittings from the cracked fuel hose. The right angled fitting just pulled out of the hose with only minor persuation, but the straight fitting had to be cut off.

 

The new hose of much more flexible 'rubber' is attached to the fittings with Oetiker hose clamps (Tightened by squeezing the ears with special pincers)

 

Wouldn't you know it *mad* The 🙆🏻 'O' ring is a non standard size. The one I have has a small cut on the outside edge and as it's a critical item and I don't want a fine spray of fuel, I want to fit a new one.

 

Anyone know where I can buy a 3.72mm cross section 'O' ring with an ID of 8mm

 

BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

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WARNING !!!!!!!!

 

Just installed my new flexible fuel hose with the old fittings and IT LEAKS LIKE A SIEVE.

 

From between the barbed straight fitting and hose. The barbs are not very deep and the Oetiker hose clamp wasn’t making the hose clamp-down hard enough. Replacing the Oetiker hose clamp with a Worm drive hose clamp stops the leak, but I don’t trust it, as it also has an Oetiker hose clamp on the end with the right angle fitting, so will pay the price for a new hose from CC.

 

ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO CARRY OUT A LEAK CHECK before trusting it with an engine start – just switch on the ignition to prime the fuel system.

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  • 5 years later...

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but it's still a current problem - mine is perished and I have a new (well 100 miles old) replacement which I thought would be the easiest job of the day....

 

How the hell do you get to the fixing at the fuel rail end (K-Series). The pipe was factory fitted at the fuel rail when the kit was delivered, so never had to worry until now.

 

I've taken the 'easy' bolt out, but the other one defies all attempts to access it without removing lots of other stuff. There is a metal bracket that hold the main harness / engine harness connector that is held captive by the throttle body which is in the way - is it easiest to remove the throttle body or is there a better way?

 

Cheers

 

Guy

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