Bob Corb

Ah ha, I wasn't far off then!

Yeah, its a bit crude but its a starting point. Did the guys at the rolling road look at all concerned about running over 14.5 everywhere? They should have. You weren't giving it any load I hope? (I've just done a wee calc here at work and for a given restriction the flow is indeed proportional to dp²)

Normally a rover FPR is set to 3 Bar. If you increase the airflow (=> fuel flow) by a factor of 1.12 (1.8 / 1.6) then dont you need to increase the dP on the injector by 1.12² = 1.26 => 1.26 * 3 = 3.86Bar? You could try blowing the reg open with compressed air? Otherwise borrow an Innovate LM-1 and take it for a blast and check your AFR drops to about 13 full load and down to 11 near peak power? A friendly rolling road would be the best place to set it up. If you try to adjust the fuel pressure at idle you will find that the pressure wont directly affect the AFR as the ECU will constantly be trimming the pulse rate to keep at 14.5

Not for me but just to clarify - Is that the full kit? 4 arms, 2 diamonds, inserts, bolts and 8 rod ends? Are the rod ends used?

I've never done it on a VX but I did on my old ZX 😬 I bought a cr@ppy little gunsons indicator box from halfords which is just an led in a box with a switch and it comes with a book to tell you the codes. Here the fella here Edited by - Bob Corb on 11 Nov 2006 17:35:03

Bedford battery centre in MK just up the road from DVAs do them for £36exc, but £42 aint bad considering its a local motor factor

The latest CC 15" wheels with CR500s do indeed use "13/14 Cycle wings" as they are known. The wings Bryn's selling are the "15/16" cycle wings as used on cars which left the factory on prisoners or the big 16" 5 spokes. I've got to say that these wings are pretty much the nicest carbon wings I've ever seen. The one's on bryns own car (same) aren't lacquered at all, just plain carbon, they dont need any further tarting up and whats more, they look just as nice on the other side. You wont be dissapointed. Without giving too much away, if you want to see some more examples of the workmanship from the same factory look here

I'm going through the whole of my new project (camper van) replacing every filament bulb with either HID or LED (even the instrument bulbs) You need to have a chat with this guy here Okay there not as trick as your full arrays but for the simplicity its worth a try. My inital reason for doing this was simply to reduce the current draw of the internal lights while I'm camping but as with all things petrol related it got a bit carried away...

Sorry, I got all carried away, I get very watery eyed when I think about "Chas". My best man bought a 92 1.4XSi the year before I got the Rallye, it was very nice. The nice thing about 106s is that they dont actually rattle very much, they're much better in that respect than the 306 which I progressed onto. When I picked up our Rallye (early in 97 - it was 20months old) one of my work colleagues had just bought a Citreon Xantia 2.0 VSX fully loaded for the same price, he thought I was daft, I knew different.

You'll find a loose wire somewhere around the ECU which should be tied away. Basically when this wire is grounded the light comes on. Sometimes the ECU will be set up to do this. On an MBE equipeed car this wire should be connected to pin 33 of the ECU IIRC.

Ours (94 106 Rallye) did its head gasket because the coolant had never been changed. The coolant became acidic, swelled the carboard gasket and pushed the oil seals around. It cost £300 quid to replace but didn't damage the engine otherwise. Watch out for a small oil leakge at the front corner over the alternator. Ours had FSH up to that point but when I realised that they never did anything I got it serviced by a specialist instead. Listen out for a clonking as you drive over uneven surfaces, ours had to have new front ARB drop links. It seamed to eat CV gaitors at one point The exhaust didn't last long, we got a Magnex stainless system and a cat replacement pipe (the rusty old cat lived in the garage 364 days a year and came out for the MOT!!) Watch out for rust behind the rear arch extensions. Otherwise, just look for the usual signs. The numbers on the odomoter always line up super straight, the factory alarm is a liability, the gearlevers do go wonky but a quickshift kit should fix that and make sure you buy a Rallye with all its stickers on (bonnet, sides and tailgate all have the multi colour flashes on) I tried an XSi once thinking I was going to get one to accompany Mrs Cs Rallye but it wasn't as much fun. I bought a new GTi instead (back in 98) but we flogged that after the Rallye outdragged it in a straight line. We would still have the rallye if someone hadn't driven into it and written it off. In fact I want one again... How about this one http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/95579.htm

MAHLE Motorsport would make you a batch of 12 for $195 USD each + vat and shipping, not sure about lead time.

Yeah, it works nicely, I'm cleaning a set of 42 yr old VW windows right now.

Which t.b.s? You mean the ones for my bus?? I dont think we'll worry about those, the bodies will be twin Jenvey 40 TFis and the manifolds and linkage are £100. I've placed the order now, got 5% off for a bulk order. For yours I thought we were holding off this year? The price for your dizzy conversion sounds okay. The dizzy blank on mine is £20 and the coil (MSD) is £70.

I noticed an engine at work fitted with an "Arrow" crankshaft the other day. I didn't think twice at the time...