Frying Pan Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 Mike Where do you put the oil temperature sender if you don't have an Apollo tank? Does it fit on with the pressure sender? Guy See some pictures of the build here. 4000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chelspeed Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 You can't just tee a temperature sensor into the same place as a pressure sensor. The pressure sensor just needs to be caonnected to the main oil gallery by any kind of connection, it can be on the end of a 20 foot bit of thin pipe and it'll still the oil pressure. A temperature sender needs to be in the main flow of oil to see the temperature of the oil, either in some kind of tank like the apollo, a dry sump tank or in a main oil line, say between the pump and an oil cooler. Connect a temp sender to a long thin line and it'll measure the ambient temp under the bonnet plus a little bit of heat conducted thro the pipe to the oil. If you have no apollo and no oil cooler then one popular way of fitting a temp sender is to drill and tap the oil drain plug and measure the temp of the oil sat in the sump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frying Pan Posted October 10, 2004 Share Posted October 10, 2004 That what I thought - thanks. I've got some pictures of Chris W's temp sender, which is in the sump plug. Perhaps a job for a winter's day! Guy See some pictures of the build here. 4000 miles completed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonathanP Posted April 15, 2006 Share Posted April 15, 2006 I just fitted one of the mechanical oil pressure senders - an easy job and now I've got plenty of oil pressure indicated I thought I'd take some photos to go with Tony C's instructions; here's a quick webpage Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davef Posted April 15, 2006 Share Posted April 15, 2006 I too have just fitted a mechanical oil pressure guage. I tie wrapped my pipe and 3 way block to above the crossmember - I used a water hose offcut to protect the powder coating. No more 'odd' pressure readings - all is completely healthy Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willmac Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Quoting Tony C: I can take some pics of mine if you need them, but it's a fairly straight forward job to do - If I can do it, anyone can 😬 Make-up the 'T' piece you get from "Think" with the pressure switch in its hole - I used some of that PTFE tape that plumbers use on the tapered thread - belt and braces. Screw the flexible line into its hole in the 'T' piece and screw the adaptor for the capilary tube into the other hole. Remove the electric sender from its hole in the filter housing - engine oil may squirt out, so be ready with a finger. Screw-in the adaptor. Connect the flexible line to the engine adaptor. Mount the 'T' piece in a convenient location - I use a 'P' clip around one of the chassis tubes. Run the capilary tube along the chassis tubes - I ran it into the cockpit through the hole in the forward end of the tunnel cover - make sure you don't pinch it. Remove the electric gauge from the dash and replace with the mechanical gauge - having attached the capilary tube and instrument light wires. Decide where you want the BIG red light - I mounted mine high between the speed-o and Tach-o. Make its hole. You need to connect a green wire (ignition live) to one side of the light - tap-into one behind the dash. There is a spare wire that emerges from the loom that passes in front of the engine - It looks black with a grey stripe - find the end in the loom behind the dash and connect it to the other terminal on the light. Connect the black/grey wire to the low oil pressure switch, down by the front of the engine and connect the other terminal on the low oil pressure switch to Earth. The low oil pressure switch will be closed and the light will be ON until the oil pressure rises to whatever the switch is set to - there's an adjuster on the back - 30 psi is reasonable - at this pressure the switch will open and the light will remain OUT until the pressure drops to below 30 psi. Robert is now your Mothers Brother 😬 BRG Brooklands SV 😬 It seems that perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing more to take away. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery) Wonder if anyone can clarify the wiring for mechanical gauge as above as you can probably tell wires are not my thing. I find the description really good but confuses me about the wiring of the light only. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myothercarsa2cv Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 There is no wiring for the gauge - it's mechanical the only wiring to worry about is the light, which, if you're lucky, should be a straight swap. The lamps push in to the back if I remember correctly, so you should be able to pop it out the old gauge and put it back in the new one. Pop the gauge out and you'll see what I mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willmac Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Sorry , bad post from me. It is wiring for the warning light I was looking for clarification on. Apologies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 It is nicely described above. Without colours, connect an ignition-switched live (+) to one side of the warning light. Connect the other side of the light to the pressure switch. Job done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willmac Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Thanks for the confirmation Ian. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Stone Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 You need to connect a green wire (ignition live) to one side of the light - tap-into one behind the dash. There is a spare wire that emerges from the loom that passes in front of the engine - It looks black with a grey stripe - find the end in the loom behind the dash and connect it to the other terminal on the light. In this good description from Tony C, I can't find the Black with a Grey stripe wire mentioned. I have had a good look at front of engine & behind dash. Have others managed to find it or is it just me? It would save having to run my own. oops got the quote thing the wong way round 😬 Edited by - Gary Stone on 5 Feb 2013 14:13:40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj247 Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 Decided to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge & ordered the bits from Merlin Motorsport; very helpful but I've got the wrong adapter to replace the old electrical sender. Car is a 1.6K series built in 2011 & old sender looks like it might be a metric thread (quite a course pitch) but I don't have verniers to measure it. Looking at earlier posts on this subject it seems it might be M12 x 1.5. Before I order yet another incorrect adapter are all K series sender threads the same? I hesitate because the existing sender electrical sender has M10 12 stamped on it & it could be either M10 or M12. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 Old ones were M10, newer ones M12. But .... may be M12 fine. Take sender off and screw it into a known nut ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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